2005 F350, Looking to Buy.....maybe!

I am looking at a 2005 F350 Lariat with a 6.0 auto. It is a very clean crew cab short box dually. About 140,000 miles on it.

I know all the issues that have been talked about with these trucks but I have found some companies that say they have a fix. Bullet Proof Diesel (and others) has a redsigned egr cooler and a remote oil cooler/filter deal that looks pretty good. With new gaskets and ARP studs will this cure the issues with this truck??

I can get a pretty good price on the truck, if putting a couple grand in it for the upgrades would make a good reliable truck i will give it a go!!

Bill

I think it is the cost of the labor that is the killer in this case. Can you do it yourself or are you paying someone? BTW, my brother had an 05 Excursion and I hated the 6.0l. It had such turbo lag it was crazy. I just about got smoked every time I drove it. You would pull out thinking "I have lots of room" and it would take off like an 80's VW jetta TDI. Then the boost would come on and it would try and blow the tires off. Loved the truck but hated the motor.

jasonf wrote:I think it is the cost of the labor that is the killer in this case. Can you do it yourself or are you paying someone? BTW, my brother had an 05 Excursion and I hated the 6.0l. It had such turbo lag it was crazy. I just about got smoked every time I drove it. You would pull out thinking "I have lots of room" and it would take off like an 80's VW jetta TDI. Then the boost would come on and it would try and blow the tires off. Loved the truck but hated the motor.

I would be doing the work. The truck did seem pretty lazy off the line, I thought it was maybe the turbo going south? They say the variable nozzle turbo reduces turbo lag. I drove a 2004 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins and it was real good off the line.

Bill

If you plan to work on it then buy a 7.3

If not I have a 2008 F350 SRW for sale....

My brother had them change out turbo's 2 or 3 times and it was the same every time. They were just a POS IMHO. Like you I have heard once you fix the problems they can be a great motor.

The 7.3 trucks are getting harder to find, and when you do the rest of the truck is worn out. The 6.0 is the next besat option, it has its share of issues but IMO the 6.4 is a deal breaker on the 2008 - 2010.......which is sad considering the rest of the truck is awesome.

My co worker (diesel tech also) just bought a 2005....we discussed the options and he bought the truck cheap enough..........parts are at a discount, labor is free.

IMO just plan on pulling the cab (easiest way if you have access to a lift) or just pop the engine out of it......the heads can be accessed with the cab on but its a huge PITA for the amount of work needed to make the engine somewhat reliable.

Head studs............I would not waste the money on them, I feel the factory head bolts are just as good if not better.and yes I have done both. The cleaning and torquing procedure of the heads and bolts are the key to not having issues down the road.

So, after you have the cab off or on a stand.........replace head gaskets, replace STC HP pump fitting with the latest upgrade Ford has, replace both standpipes (they will be in the head sets from Ford) and both rail plugs. Also if the screen on the IPR is damaged replace the IPR.

Do an EGR delete, have the intake cleaned inside real good. If the injectors are old this is a good time to replace them as well. Also replace the oil cooler and the screen that sits under it. I would also replace the turbo center housing if it is not of the later design, otherwise it will have up and give you issues. Replace both up pipes to the turbo, they crack at the bellows and leak. Replace the EBP sensor, clean the tube, and replace the connector as well. Replace the CAC boot on the turbo and both clamps. If any other CAC boots are oily replace them as well.

The air cleaner set up is a good one and does not need replaced with an aftermarket unit, just make sure the lid is not warped and all the clamps are on it. Gettin rid of the cat and replacing the muffler is not a bad idea.

Verify the FICM voltage is in spec, if not replace the halfshell from Ford, no need to reprogram by just replacing this and its cheaper than a complete FICM.

Flush the cooling system real good, rust can build up and plug the oil cooler, this usually takes out the egr cooler but if you delete it then the issue is not there, but your oil cooler is still plugged lol.

Belt and tensioner, idler pulleys are a good idea. New T stat etc. replacing the degas bottle and cap is another cheap insurance idea. Hoses etc.

Sounds like a lot, but they have a lot of issues, this will just a good bit of reliabilty in it. Another good idea is to change the ATF using the LV fluid, replace the bypass filter.

How much are they asking for the truck? I'd take a 200K 7.3 over a 100K 6.0

Thanks for the info Jon!! That is a lot of work but the trucks are quite nice.

John, they are looking for $19,000 but I can negotiate lower (with this list of work!!). I have seen a few others cheaper. This truck has every option but the adjustable pedals.

What is your opinion of the remote oil to air cooler to replace the factory oil to water cooler? Will the truck still pass an emission test with the EGR delete?

Are they normally kind of lazy off the jump? Will a tune help?

Thanks again for the info!!

Bill

tuner will help,............... emissions?????...........cant tell ya we dont have that here lol. The factory oil cooler is fine once replaced.

Cool, thanks Jon!!

Bill

richter69 wrote: the 6.4 is a deal breaker on the 2008 - 2010.......which is sad considering the rest of the truck is awesome.

Ain't that the truth.