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Suspension Infro ?

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Post  67460 October 22nd 2011, 3:24 pm

Looking into ordering my Ladder Bars, and needed to known how to determine how long they should be?
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Post  67460 October 22nd 2011, 10:37 pm

Thanks Bruno,
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Post  richter69 October 22nd 2011, 10:48 pm

32" deal should be good.
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Post  the Coug October 22nd 2011, 11:08 pm

Personally if it were just a race car I would get 4 link hands down.....
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Post  BigDave65 October 22nd 2011, 11:47 pm

I would probably still do a 4-link if it was a street/strip deal! Very Happy
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Post  richter69 October 23rd 2011, 12:24 am

ladder bars will work just dandy............ Wink
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE October 23rd 2011, 2:15 am

The average "off the shelf" 32" to 36" bar should work pretty good for a lot of the cars/wheelbases out there. Available room & "packaging" does factor in the picture too. A real long ladder bar in a short wheelbase car might "work" OK. But it could make for a packaging nightmare in a low slung car, or a car where a tall driver needing more leg room can't get it because the bars front mounting brackets/frame kick-up are sitting right up behind his ass.

And not all ladder bar makers use the exact same method for determining their "advertised" bar length. This is because some measure the bar length it's self (front to rear rod-end C/L's), and some measure from rear housing C/L to the front rod-end C/L. So if someone is worried about bar length, it's always a good idea to call first before ordering a set & find out exactly how long any given ladder bar maker's bars might be.

4-links are great, but you can also go pretty damn fast with a ladder bar too. However real fast ladder bar cars really do need a real good double adjustable drag shock to get the most out of the car though.

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Post  bruno October 23rd 2011, 6:19 am

67460 wrote:Thanks Bruno,

no problem sir

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Post  1fatcat March 1st 2012, 7:29 pm

"for a long time" unless you are going to sell it ? LOL
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Post  67460 April 12th 2012, 8:19 pm

Finally getting rear suspension done. I'm not doing it myself Razz but it's being done by a highly recommended chassis builder. Doing a complete back half with frame rails, narrow rear end, tubs, and ladder bars, battery mounts, fuel cell mounted, nixtous mount, chute mount and tin work. Very Happy
Will be complete by the end of the month. Thanks guys for all of your help.
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Post  bruno April 12th 2012, 8:35 pm

we need some pics melvin cheers ...you gonna make this bbf shootout

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Post  67460 April 12th 2012, 8:43 pm

Will send pictures asap, still up in the air about the shoot out, depends on how busy my work is.
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Post  67460 June 6th 2012, 11:58 pm

Have Fun!


Last edited by 67460 on June 8th 2012, 8:40 am; edited 1 time in total
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Post  bigblok2000ranger June 7th 2012, 7:22 pm

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:The average "off the shelf" 32" to 36" bar should work pretty good for a lot of the cars/wheelbases out there. Available room & "packaging" does factor in the picture too. A real long ladder bar in a short wheelbase car might "work" OK. But it could make for a packaging nightmare in a low slung car, or a car where a tall driver needing more leg room can't get it because the bars front mounting brackets/frame kick-up are sitting right up behind his ass.

And not all ladder bar makers use the exact same method for determining their "advertised" bar length. This is because some measure the bar length it's self (front to rear rod-end C/L's), and some measure from rear housing C/L to the front rod-end C/L. So if someone is worried about bar length, it's always a good idea to call first before ordering a set & find out exactly how long any given ladder bar maker's bars might be.

4-links are great, but you can also go pretty damn fast with a ladder bar too. However real fast ladder bar cars really do need a real good double adjustable drag shock to get the most out of the car though.

Fully agree, I have noticed whenever ladderbars are brought up most usually respond why not go fourlink. The ladderbars still work and I think a good double adjustable lb is a good place for the average guy with fairly simple settings but still adjustable where a fourlink can get most people way out in left field (myself included). I believe in the kiss theory keep it simple stupid!

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Post  67460 June 7th 2012, 8:39 pm

Hoping to go out this weekend for the first time with new set up. I have made some major changes including convertor, and tire size. Would love to go to the shoot out with you guys, but I am a HVAC guy and work is starting to pick up.
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Post  DILLIGASDAVE June 9th 2012, 2:16 am

bigblok2000ranger wrote:Fully agree, I have noticed whenever ladderbars are brought up most usually respond why not go fourlink. The ladderbars still work and I think a good double adjustable lb is a good place for the average guy with fairly simple settings but still adjustable where a fourlink can get most people way out in left field (myself included). I believe in the kiss theory keep it simple stupid!
Yea, for the average "drag car" both 4-links and ladder bars are both usable choices in a lot of cases. The 4-link doesn't really show big gains/benifits untill you have a car with big enough power numbers to deal with that are beyond the adjustment window of the average ladder bar setup. Of course if we were talking about a mostly street/highway driven car, the 4-link wins hands down because a ladder bar setup just doesn't allow enough needed body-roll to happen for better real world street manners.
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