t-bird owners

What is the correct factory length on rear lower control arms.
Thanks,
Steve

What year?

1988

aren't they the same as a mustang?

No they are not the t-birds are longer some guys have said using the mustang type will pull the rearend 1 inch forward. Not looking for more headaches going to a lower soild bar and coilover shock setup this winter.
Steve

We have always used the exact same parts. Always had great luck.

70429scj wrote:No they are not the t-birds are longer some guys have said using the mustang type will pull the rearend 1 inch forward. Not looking for more headaches going to a lower soild bar and coilover shock setup this winter.
Steve

I think the 83-86 T-Bird rear control arms were the same as the Mustang.But like you said i'm pretty sure the 87-88 T-Bird were different.

Later Mark.

You could always get adjustables and put them at whatever length you'd like,

Mark Miller wrote:

70429scj wrote:No they are not the t-birds are longer some guys have said using the mustang type will pull the rearend 1 inch forward. Not looking for more headaches going to a lower soild bar and coilover shock setup this winter.
Steve

I think the 83-86 T-Bird rear control arms were the same as the Mustang.But like you said i'm pretty sure the 87-88 T-Bird were different.

Later Mark.

they should be about 1/4-1/2" longer. Can't remember. We use adjustable lowers on everything and push the rear back an inch anyway so I guess I never really noticed the difference.

Heres my pain in the but. My bird when i bought it had ss lower contol arms on it and the had fabed a bracket
to mount them. So right off the bat I don't know what the correct lenght is supposed to be. I do have a set of adjustable lowers but I have no referance point to start with. maybe these pics will help. the mustang wheelbase 100.5 where the bird is 104.2 wheelbase
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mustang and T-bird owners can still get most of D&D suspension parts from. I hope this helps someone!!!!
Brandt Racing Enterprises
42211-B Sierra Highway
Lancaster CA 93535
661-723-2273
www.brandtracing.com

Just checked the 8.8 out of my 88 TC T-Bitd. 18" from center to center of bolt holes. Hope this helps. Steve www.classicgearjammers.org

The new lower control arms measure 18" center of bolt to center so that will be the starting point. Can't say thanks enough for the help.
Steve

Most mustangs are really 101. Ours was 102". As far as length is concerned you can make them any length that you want. Put the rear in the wheelwell and make sure the rear is square then adjust the top accordingly.

anybody here running the rear coil over conversions on there fox body mustang. Trying to make this project payoff as much as possible before we put some real BBF power to this bird.
Thanks,
Steve

I used Autowelds coil over set up. Qa1 and there S99 9". If you plan on BBF you will be far ahead to go with a 9", mini tubs,coil overs and ladderbars. It may be alot of $$$, but well spent money. Steve

bigblock t-bird wrote:I used Autowelds coil over set up. Qa1 and there S99 9". If you plan on BBF you will be far ahead to go with a 9", mini tubs,coil overs and ladderbars. It may be alot of $$$, but well spent money. Steve

I disagree with ladder bars. Stock suspension is too good to go away from. It would be a good idea to ditch all of the solid stuff and go fully adjustable lower and most importantly uppers.

I've ran the rear coilover conversions in a couple of fox mustangs, they worked great. You can get a variety of spring rates and they allow some preload to be in too, it gives you alot of flexibility IMO.

I have double adjustable on the upper and lower arms. Just was not sure how well the coil over setups where
working. I like the ideal of puting the shock and spring together behind the axle. the whole setup then works
like a 4 link car. I will also help buy being able to run a wider tire than 28x10.5x15. Getting the spring and shock combination correct mike be a headache. because I belive this has more tail overhang and a little more weight than a mustang. I had heard good and bad about the conversion kits. Anybody with any thoughts chime in please
Thanks,
Steve

I just built a car for a guy that is running 325 drag radials and 29.5w's and we used the Wolfe spring kit that kept the springs on the lower control arms and put the shocks behind the axle like what you are talking about. I like the Wolfe kits.

BTW the car that Wolfe ran still has the springs mounted on the lowers.

70429scj wrote:Heres my pain in the but. My bird when i bought it had ss lower contol arms on it and the had fabed a bracket
to mount them.

That bracket is part of the SS lift bars. That's how they get them to work. Lowering the rear point will cause them to bite harder. If you have good fab skills just buy some tubing, tube adapters and rod ends and make what you need...

I was not aware that the backets came with the lift bars. I will have to brake out the trust grinder then!! Have now got the correct length bars lower bars double adjustable. Bought Autowelds spring mounting bracket to move the spring off the lower bar onto a spring pad in front of the rearend then probably Strange 10 way adjustable shocks behind the rearend. Not sure what spring rate is going to end up being. Well at least once
this is done maybe I can order a correct length driveshaft. Maybe Santa will bring me one even if it's used!!
Steve