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New truck time 6.0 left me stranded again today warraynty runs out Dec what to buy

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Post  56Tbird November 29th 2011, 12:25 am

Hey Snake ,did you get all that diesel soot washed off the front of your truck yet Very Happy I'll bet the lady you passed with her window down is still calling you funny names!! affraid cheers lol!
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Post  cool40 November 29th 2011, 12:36 am

bad snake! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6ITEQKsBkE
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Post  jasonf November 29th 2011, 1:36 am

cool40 wrote:bad snake! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6ITEQKsBkE

LMAO
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Post  John I. December 1st 2011, 2:37 am

studly wrote:Well decided to fix myself calling bullet proof 6.0 and going to replace EGR COOLER and put external oil cooler and fix all the dummy plugs and snap ring hpop fitting i think the injectors are okay just probably a deal with the leak because they say all injectors on same side that are showing weak. so probably just trying to get some cash off me. Wish me luck first diesel motor i have ever worked on but i can put a BBF together blindfolded so hopefully no problems

Best advice I could give is find some way of protecting your ribcage from the abuse of laying on top of that thng for 2 days. I finally took a piece of indoor/outdoor carpet all wadded up and laid on that while I was replacing my injectors. Next time I do anything substantial on the truck I'm going to build an over the top creeper or something like that.
Other trick is getting the thing back together without exhaust leaks. It's a bitch to seal up the Y-pipe to the turbo, took me 3 tries the first time I ever had the turbo off. Secret is to leave the turbo bolts out while you're tightening the Y-pipe up. The gasket on the egr/up-pipe flange likes to fall out as you're tightening it up, there isn't much of a lip on the cooler to hold it, a little orange hi temp silicone works good. Leave the bolt on the cooler undone until you get the up-pipe bolted to it.
And watch how hard you tighten the ICP sensor, that little screwup cost me 185 bucks. If YOU twist it off, it'll be a lot cheaper for you, we get screwed pretty bad on parts up here.
Changing the stc fitting on the HPOP was nerve racking for me, drop something down the hole and it's gone into the engine. I stuffed a rag down the hole and did a lot of sweating.
Make sure you check the IPR screen. Random info...Had a guy on Ford-trucks.com that kept blowing out IPR's...he just happened to post a pic of his engine, and one of the forum members noticed he had the wrong oil filter cap on. The previous owner had used WIX filters and changed the cap, and this guy was using a FRAM and it was shorter and the oil wasn't being filtered.
Good luck. I had never worked on an electronic diesel engine before, and I did fine.

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Post  richter69 December 1st 2011, 9:35 am

I can trip a set of coolers in about 5 hours.......and thats pulling and flushing the radiator while I'm at it, changing the oil etc, a stc fitting by itself is about 2.5, I have built-in padding for lying on top of them 6.0's for hours................... Very Happy there is a trick to popping the y pipe into the back of the turbo with a prybar, I use a little trans assy lube to hold the gaskets in place on the egr cooler upon assy, melts right off. ................I gotta do a couple here in the next couple days if I think about it I'll snap a few pics............
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Post  Curt December 1st 2011, 10:12 am

How much longer would it take to/if remove the cab?
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Post  richter69 December 1st 2011, 10:54 am

I would only pull the cab to do the head gaskets, the other stuff is done easy enough in the truck.
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Post  Curt December 1st 2011, 11:08 am

richter69 wrote:I would only pull the cab to do the head gaskets, the other stuff is done easy enough in the truck.

Oh good, will you come do glow plugs for me?
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Post  Lem Evans December 1st 2011, 12:42 pm

Please take pictures....I've never seen Fabio 'do' a glow plug Shocked

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Post  studly December 2nd 2011, 11:46 pm

Well got the motor tore apart, not to bad except that bolt in the back of the turbo to get it off, pulled stand up tubes they looked alright, the dummy plug on passanger side the oring busted in half the one on the driver side showed some ware replaced everything, egr cooler was starting to leak. my truck had the upgraded fitting already on the hpop the one that bolts in.


now the bad news the hpop had some metal in the small screen so i am going to replace it anyone know where is the best place to get???

took me about three hours to get everything off did not break anything so all good so far, my bullet proof 6.0 egr and external oil cooler supposed to be here monday i will start back next Friday with putting everything together if i can find the hpop this week.
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Post  richter69 December 3rd 2011, 12:05 am

I can say the cast iron hpop's.................the 100's I've had off, I have never replaced one. The IPR screen gets crap on the end of it, if the screen is plugged the STC fitting kit from Ford has a new one, if the screen is cracked or broken replace the IPR assy. If the truck was running I doubt the pump is shot, if you have to have one the dealer is the only place I know or would say to get a replacement..............I'm sure some of the diesel perf sites have them now though.

The screen under the oil cooler is always torn, I have not seen one of the ext oil cooler kits, nor know what is involved with it..................if you remove the oil cooler assy be very careful in gettng all the crap cleaned from around it before you take it off...the dirt will fall into the screen under it thats likely got a tear in it.............it will find its way into your IPR and plug and blow out the screen.........truck no run...you get to replace it again lol.
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Post  studly December 3rd 2011, 10:10 am

I belive it is the IPR screen, I knew from bullet proofs video the plastic screen under the oil filter would be blown out and it was, but wen i pulled the gold piece off the HPOP i was very supprised to see what looked like metal in the small round stainless creeen on the end of it. you are saying this is normal? if so that will save me some money.



like i said this truck would start up cold and run fine then run the truck 30min cut it off it would not start had ford diagnose

1. stand up tubes
2. dummy plugs
3. high pressure oil pump snap fitting
2
4. injectors 1,2,5 bad


So far what i have found

1. stand up tubes perfect
2. Dummy plug passanger side bottom oil ring cut in half
3.Dummy plug driver side bottom oil ring shows alot of wear
4.Injectors tested good
5. Screen under oil filter pulled apart plastic
6. small stainless screen in the ipr looks like trash or metal
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Post  richter69 December 3rd 2011, 12:46 pm

cut o ring on the dummy plug is your no start after hot culprit.


how did you "test" the injectors?
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Post  studly December 3rd 2011, 2:36 pm

so the metal in the screen in the IPR is normal?????? no worry?? just replace screen and put back on??? the hpop has the screw on fitting so it is not leaking there it looks like maybe some oil out of the weep hole on the pump. Is this normal??


thanks for the help

Just got my boxes today from bullet proof, have not opened yet but before i put all this stuff back on i want to make sure i dont have to pull it back off. This really has went alot easier than i expected. this truck is not that bad to work on. The passanger side with the air conditioner a little bit of a pain. but i think i could even change headgaskets if i could get that air box to move about 4 inches. but man the parts for this thing $$$$$$$ are like building a race motor.


thanks for the help

stan
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Post  richter69 December 3rd 2011, 2:47 pm

yeah I wouldnt replace the pump, like said if the screen is cracked or has a hole in it replace the ipr assy, otherwise use the screen kit from the stc fitting kit. I'd like to see some pics of the ext oil cooler if you dont mind, co worker has one and was wanting to do the ext oil cooler kit possibly.

trouble with doing heads in the truck is removing, installing, and re torquing the head bolts............we pull the cabs off for this or the engine out if cab pull is not an option............it aint worth the fight in the truck trust me lol.
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Post  studly December 3rd 2011, 5:12 pm

I will post some pics of the external cooler when i open everything up and start to install, should be this friday
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Post  studly December 10th 2011, 11:36 pm

New truck time 6.0 left me stranded again today warraynty runs out Dec  what to buy - Page 3 Bulletproofdiesle060cop

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Post  richter69 December 10th 2011, 11:38 pm

how much that cost?
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Post  studly December 10th 2011, 11:39 pm

New truck time 6.0 left me stranded again today warraynty runs out Dec  what to buy - Page 3 Bulletproofdiesle059

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Post  studly December 10th 2011, 11:46 pm

richter69 wrote:how much that cost?


I brought the hole kit

stand up tubes
dummy plugs
HPOP snap fitting replacement
Bullet proof EGR cooler guaranteed for life
external oil cooler
it came with everything
even new oil pressure sensor plugs etc
intake gaskets,
turbo drain tube
new oil filter this is a canister style no longer use the paper element deal
regulator screen
everything you could think of


2800.00

the only thing I did not replace was the Head gaskets and studs that kit with orings and all needed parts is 1000.00
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Post  studly December 10th 2011, 11:49 pm

New truck time 6.0 left me stranded again today warraynty runs out Dec  what to buy - Page 3 Bulletproofdiesle062

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Post  cool40 December 10th 2011, 11:49 pm

richter69 wrote:how much that cost?
its big and alum,i'd say...........alot.lol
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Post  studly December 10th 2011, 11:50 pm

this is the actual oil cooler it is supposed to take the oil temp from 210 to 160 degrees it is way bigger than stock and is mounted up front next to the air condition condensor
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Post  richter69 December 10th 2011, 11:58 pm

damn you could buy a lot of heat exchangers for that lol.
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Post  studly December 11th 2011, 1:51 am

Remember Ford estimate to fix dummy plugs, standup tubes, and hpop fitting, and three injectors was 3,500. and no guarantee that would fix anything extra would have been more. that is not replacing the EGR, adding external oil cooler. I think it is a rip off they know these trucks have this problem since first made and have not made an effort to correct the problem. the new dummy plugs have Teflon on them in addition to the Orings that went bad on the original. The snap fitting on the HPOP is solid now to correct the oil leak problem they have been know for and my egr had already started leaking with less than 89,000 miles. The High oil temp and the leaky EGR are the main problems the motor will not live, Ford should have fixed or made navistar/;international fix these issues rather than putting it on there customers. Now my only worry is i can get at least another 20,000 -30,000 miles before the Head studs stretch and blow the head-gaskets i am hoping the lower oil temp will help save the motor Only time will tell. I broke the little plastic fitting off the map sensor so i have to wait until Monday to get one then i will try to start the truck.


The sticker price on this truck was 54,000 it was brought 12/5/2005 as a 2006 model year truck, a little over 88,000 on the odomentor and has had a turbo, inter cooler, injector wiring harness, mass air sensor, air cleaner, and all attaching hardware, cool side inlet pipes, catalytic converter replaced under warranty. total warranty cost without labor 8,800.

now i have replaced
stand up tubes
dummy plugs
egr
oil cooler
oil pressure sensor
map sensor
hpop
hpop fitting

what i have spent 3400
so 12,000 dollars on top of 54,000
66,000 dollar truck


I told the ford dealership they needed to take the mints off the counter and put a jar of vaseline up there instead
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