Mounting engine in chassis

jbozzelle wrote:Is the .090 steel midplate thick enough if not using a rubber mount on the trans? Seems flimsy and thin to me.

I say this because once all my plates were welded and the engine bolted in the trans cross member took a "set" and has some tension on it now.... I'm thinking of going to a 1/4" aluminum mid plate and ditching the trans crossmember.

it'll depend on how wide your plates are.i'd put limiters on it anyway.JMO

cool40 wrote:

jbozzelle wrote:Is the .090 steel midplate thick enough if not using a rubber mount on the trans? Seems flimsy and thin to me.

I say this because once all my plates were welded and the engine bolted in the trans cross member took a "set" and has some tension on it now.... I'm thinking of going to a 1/4" aluminum mid plate and ditching the trans crossmember.

it'll depend on how wide your plates are.i'd put limiters on it anyway.JMO

My concern isn't about the limiters. Those will go on regardless.

My problem was that I set the engine plate on some supports tack welded to the frame. I got the engine located where it needed to be and then welded my mounting tabs to the frame. I did the same for the mid plate. Once I bolted it all up and removed my temporary supports the trans seems to have sagged a bit. Appears as though the mid plate has distorted allowing the rear of the trans to drop down and push on the trans crossmember. I put a trans crossmember on there to support the tailshaft. I'm using a rubber mount too.

I'm thinking I need to use a 1/4" aluminum plate now...

I'd support the midplate at the top, weld a tab, put some bars behind the firewall and tie it all in.

A .090-.120" steel mid plate that is real super wide (like with most stock front frames) and cut in a "half moon" shape at the flywheel opening (not a "full" size mid plate) can "sag" a little if they are only supported way out at the frame rails. Adding a mid plate "tree" off the dash bar to support the top of the mid plate with more bolts helps a bunch.

Dave, that's the type of plate I have. I'll have to see what I can do to get some bars in there like Fabio has. I looked at it before and in order for it to be "clean" the factory pedal box has to go. You know how it is. One step forward, two back...

It aint my thread,but thanks for the pics and discussion.I am at this point in my build on my Falcon and this thread has answered some questions.The pics have given me some good ideas too.Feel free to post as many pics as you want LOL.---RED

another reason front exit headers are the norm on the fox body cars, no notching the midplate for header clearance. Seems Nick had some pics of his after they hacked it up................not much was left on the pass side lol

Mine is hacked real bad on the pass side too. Not sure why but it wouldn't be necessary if more thought was put into them...

Looks like once I find another place to wrench on my car I'll add a Wilwood pedal/MC assembly to it and ditch the factory pedal box and support. If I can open up that area under the dash I can easily support the midplate and tie it into the dash bar and front running "strut" bars...

richter69 wrote:my frame connectors are 2" x 2" .250" wall, lots of extra bars in the cage.........all mild steel...........these old cars aint build like them pop can fox body cars lol

IDT-572 wrote:

richter69 wrote:my frame connectors are 2" x 2" .250" wall, lots of extra bars in the cage.........all mild steel...........these old cars aint build like them pop can fox body cars lol

I did something a little different on my fox deal. I made a pipe truss from 1 inch schedule 40 tubing. I bent it so it was parallel with the top of the bell housing and made two bends on each side down to make it sit on top of the frame rail.

It has two 3/8s by one inch straps welded through the tubes down to the top bell housing bolts. Kind of like a bridge truss, then I have a front plate and a trans cross member with a piece of nylon between it and the trans. I have studs and lock nuts on it with them run down till they touch the flat washers I have on it. You can still move the flat washers with your fingers.

I have ran this set up for 5-6 years with no trouble. I will try to put some pictures up tonight.

jbozzelle wrote:Dave, that's the type of plate I have. I'll have to see what I can do to get some bars in there like Fabio has. I looked at it before and in order for it to be "clean" the factory pedal box has to go. You know how it is. One step forward, two back...

thats the kind i have too but my rails are close together tho,not a problem so far but mounting to the dash /windshield bar would be a good idea.

Here is a picture of my mid mount................. No header clearance problems with this mount, so far so good.

Same idea that we had on ours, only concealed behind the firewall.