scat 9000 crank

Ok i have been looking at a ton of old post and new ones what are you guy putting on them hp. I know a lot has to do to your tune and setup. (((But im look for number and setup.))) Thank you Jason

for no more money than they are a Scat forged deal is a no brainer IMO.

I wonder who's either blanks or Finished cranks and rods Mark O'Neal has there at Probe/CHP ? Or if they all come from Off Shore now..and are machined here in the states? Some say they do there own machining, some say they just inspect them for roll out, and I guess some are just the middle man... Confusing as hell...

Mark was on here the other night so hopefully he will come on and clear it all up for you.

RapidRuss wrote:I wonder who's either blanks or Finished cranks...or if they all come from Off Shore now..and are machined here in the states? Some say they do there own machining, some say they just inspect them for roll out, and I guess some are just the middle man... Confusing as hell...

SCAT is in Long Beach, California. I have been there on a few occassions and my partner Van has been there between five and ten million times. Last I heard, the cranks are finish machined in Long Beach. The billet cranks are fully machined in Long Beach. They also have in-house balancing....in fact I had another SCAT forged rotating assy balanced in-house as recently as this past week.

Paul

Paul,

I remember from years ago when I lived in SoCal and grew up there in Redondo Beach, My Dad and I were into building Sand Buggy's and used alot of Scat Big bore kits and cranks on the Vdub powered Buggy's.. this was some 40 years ago, and Scat at that time was in Inglewood, CA, then they moved to Redondo So i heard..But was un-aware of there move to Long beach..

Back in my Altered days... the only Crank shop that "I" knew of was Hitchcock out in Long Beach up on Signal Hill....

But alot of these Crank rod and piston people...wont say where there source is for there Products..they leave you with the impression its all done in house.. But i dont know about anyone else...But I for one would like to find out just who is getting what where..and who all does there on grinding and sizing and QC. in house ?

Just like with all the cam blanks..Rumor had it for many years that everyone got there blanks from one source ? and did there on grinding on them.. I know this was the case with Isky Cams in Gardena, CA...and Howards Cams at one time use to be in Lawndale, CA right down the road from me.. Years ago..

But i do wish Mark would chime in and shed some light on who does what ? and where ?

Just like with Valve springs back in the late 70's...a Company I use to Interim Source at Called National Spring in L.A. claimed to me that they made all the Valve Springs for various Cam Co.

Most of the piston people make their own pistons...

Federal-Mogul(Mexico), Clevite(???), King(Israel), Co-Fap(Brazil) and ACL(Australia) make their own bearings. Mahle owns both Clevite and Co-Fap

Federal-Mogul, Perfect Circle, Mahle, Hastings, and Total Seal make rings. The vast majority of performance rings are made by either F-M or PC. TS make a few specialty steel parts. Mahle makes a nice part, and they also own PC. Hastings makes round thingys and decent oil expanders. Everybody buys from everbody else seemingly at random.

Scat is the only importer that also has the capability of doing custom billet cranks on site - that should provide a clue as to whether the other guys have machining capability "in house".... Whatever you may think of Chinese parts, at least Scat has somebody in the building that understands the concepts of straight and round...

Cast cam cores are cast and flame heat treated at CWC-Textron in Michigan. The cores are then sent to either Camshaft Machine Company in Jackson, Michigan or to Engine Power Components in Grand Haven, Michigan - - neither firm will sell to the public. These companies will finish the bearing journals, the distributor gears, the front and rear facings and drillings, and rough (or finish) grind the lobes per customer specs. The semi-finished cores are then sent to the respective cam companies for finishing and/or packaging.

Cloyes makes a really nice basic timing set. They make the sprockets and source chain from either Renold (France) or JWiS(Germany). SA Gear makes gears for many of the non-Cloyes cheap stuff out there. They are round with teeth - can't say much more. Some are shiny. If the chain says "Rolon" its from India - draw your own conclusions. I won't run them. Japanese chain is good but has goten hard to find (Tsubaki, Daido, KCM).

Most valve springs are made by either Petersen Automotive or by Associated

Well Barry , thanks for some of the insight as too who's makin what..and who isnt... I guess its kind of hard getting some of the company's to fess up as to where there components come from and who really does the work to finish the product...

The Romac Timing set for my FE , the Gear was made in Swiss land ..lol..and it did have the German chain on it.. But I also understand that Maddog in FL. had bought some that dint have the german chain on them about 2 years or so back.. and they werent packaged in a Romac package as some were..

Good info but what happen to my post about the scat 9000 crank ????? just giving you guy some _h_t.

I see that some say that the crank will take 1000hp and 7000rpm what the the deal and the 4130 is 1500hp and no rpm and the price is a big jump $300.00 to $800.00 thats $500.00 for only 500hp dif... Not saying im right i just want some hard facts on the crank.

A cast crank @ 1,000 HP will break . It's just a matter of when . While it can be said that they will stand 1,000 HP it's not a good long term decision .

Thank you Lem. I have a ? for any with the info why do all Aluminum Rod makers not list the weight of the rods are they heavy then a steel rod???? I just think thats funny that they dont list the weight.

I see that alum rods are about 20% lighter then a steel rod.

What is your guy intake on this?
* Reciprocating weight accelerates to a stop then changes direction. Rotating weight moves in a single direction. Loosely speaking, removing one ounce of reciprocating weight is more beneficial to longevity and efficiency than removing a pound of rotating weight. In other words, don't waste time grinding the crank counterweights. Concentrate first on the rods, pistons, and pins.

* Using lightweight rods with stock pistons and pins can lead to disaster. The hefty stock parts can impart excessive tensile loading and fail the rods. Instead, get the lightest pistons and pins that still offer a surplus of durability, then spring for the light rods. Running light pistons on stock rods is safe.

* A too-heavy rod-and-piston assembly running on a lightened and scalloped crankshaft is an invitation to disaster. The crank can flex and fail at high rpm.

* If you're stuck building an engine with marginal connecting rods, don't install parts that increase engine speed (hot cam, ported heads, big carb, and so on). Instead, go with nitrous oxide, a blower, or turbo. Adding power through compressive loading is actually easier on the rods than the high-tensile loading that comes with screaming rpm.

Originally, steel rod makers listed the weights so they could be compared to production rod weights for balancing comparison purposes.
An aluminum rod will be considerably lighter and nowhere near the weight of a production rod.

RapidRuss wrote:Paul,

I remember from years ago when I lived in SoCal and grew up there in Redondo Beach, My Dad and I were into building Sand Buggy's and used alot of Scat Big bore kits and cranks on the Vdub powered Buggy's.. this was some 40 years ago, and Scat at that time was in Inglewood, CA, then they moved to Redondo So i heard..But was un-aware of there move to Long beach...

Yes, they're in the city of Redondo Beach. That whole general area to me--Redondo Beach, Hermosa Beach, Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, this beach, that beach--I guess I get mixed up, shipping stuff out of Long Beach harbor...working on a shipment to Australia right now.

Paul Kane wrote:

RapidRuss wrote:Paul,

I remember from years ago when I lived in SoCal and grew up there in Redondo Beach, My Dad and I were into building Sand Buggy's and used alot of Scat Big bore kits and cranks on the Vdub powered Buggy's.. this was some 40 years ago, and Scat at that time was in Inglewood, CA, then they moved to Redondo So i heard..But was un-aware of there move to Long beach...

Yes, they're in the city of Redondo Beach. That whole general area to me--Redondo Beach, Hermosa Beach, Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, this beach, that beach--I guess I get mixed up, shipping stuff out of Long Beach harbor...working on a shipment to Australia right now.

Oh i hear what your saying Paul,

That whole area was my stomping grounds for 38 years..So i know it very well.. and every piece of road thats at least a 1/4 mile long with a good shut down area...

Northwest outlaw wrote:Good info but what happen to my post about the scat 9000 crank ????? just giving you guy some _h_t.

I see that some say that the crank will take 1000hp and 7000rpm what the the deal and the 4130 is 1500hp and no rpm and the price is a big jump $300.00 to $800.00 thats $500.00 for only 500hp dif... Not saying im right i just want some hard facts on the crank.

You're not buying anything but peace of mind with that extra 500 bucks.

I'm running a cast Scat 4.5" crank, and I am very nervous about it..... in fact I have my eyes peeled for a forged crank.

Not sure what my HP is, but the online calcs say around 850 HP is required to get 135 mph at 4160 lbs.

Greg

Last time I did business with the original HOWARDS CAMS, about 35 years ago, they were located on So. Main @ 104Th. street in EllAy. They had a GREAT cam for blown CHRYSLERs running in the old "TOP GAS" class. Best runs we ever made were with the "390 MINUS" grind, a flat tappet cam.

Howards Cams is now Competition Products, Another chineese junk/etc parts pusher.
There were two brothers I beleive after the old man (Howard) passed away. One of the brothers just does aluminum rods now I was told under the Howards name. Kind of a goofy deal. The other one, howards cams sold under the CP banner.

I had a Scat 9000 cast crank in my old engine. A 557 with BT heads, 6.8 h beams, all the std stuff. It made around 840 hp or so and lot's or torque (torque was great thanks to the methanol fuel). It lasted 6 seasons and around 1200 passes before it broke. It had been magnafluxed about 60 passes before it broke with no cracks found. It was just it's time to go. It made a mess. Broke at 6800 rpm at about 140 mph. 3/7 journal snapped off and it tried to pull those pistons out the bottom.



When it broke it locked the engine for a split second. Broke the bellhousing off the trans 360° around.


My new engine has the Scat 4340 forged. Great looking piece and piece of mind as well. Mine came from Adney Brown an has some custom options.

David's cast crank life is as good as it gets ....he's good with the tune up and the BT 557" is not a high RPM engine relatively speaking . I think he will tell you that the reason for the cast unit was the popularly priced forged units were not available at the time he did the engine .
At 1,000 Hp the life of a cast unit may have been only 120 laps [or less] i.m.o. Given the other expensive parts that get killed if the shaft fails I'd think the additional $s for a quality forging would be a good investment . Based on what I've observered the last dozen years , after 800-850 hp maybe a good place to get off the cast crankshaft train .

After you add in the extra expense for the Mallory metal to balance and the added cost of balancing, the cast crank stops looking like a bargain also. Lem pulled off a deal to get me a forged crank, and I'm sure gratefull for the peace of mind. If and when I upgrade, I know the bottom end is more than capable of what I'm gonna throw at it.

Good point about the balance .

schmitty wrote:After you add in the extra expense for the Mallory metal to balance and the added cost of balancing, the cast crank stops looking like a bargain also. Lem pulled off a deal to get me a forged crank, and I'm sure gratefull for the peace of mind. When I upgrade, I know the bottom end is more than capable of what I'm gonna throw at it.

I fixed the quote for you, Rob...

Nevs, after this weekend, I've got a notion to put together a 2000hp blower motor, and then chase whoever I want down on that track, and then let them call a redlight on me.

schmitty wrote: Nevs, after this weekend, I've got a notion to put together a 2000hp blower motor, and then chase whoever I want down on that track, and then let them call a redlight on me.

I hear ya, brother, I guess it was the only way they could beat you