SMALL BLOCK HEADS

Im not extremely familiar with small block fords and was wondering what is a great and well worth priced aluminum head for an306 mid 70's block?

Nate

what are you doing with it?

Street/strip...as much hp as practicle

whats the rest of the combo? How fast you plan on going? I'm assuming ita a N/A motor?

How much compression? Why are you limiting yourself to 306" ?

dfree383 wrote:whats the rest of the combo? How fast you plan on going? I'm assuming ita a N/A motor?

How much compression? Why are you limiting yourself to 306" ?

89 notch. Stripped. 4.11 8.8 rear. Motor is a 306 with roughly 12.5 compression. 650 dp holley. Victor intake. Electric water pump and fan. How fast? As fast as possible on a regular basis without splitting block. I bought the car without much info and it isnt in my garage at the moment so there are some things I cant identify yet. Car should cert to 8.5. C4 transmission but it will need to be modded. Foot brake car. Has nitrous hook ups but no bottle. Pistons are kb hyper AND i don't want to split block so nitrous isnt an option. No cam card but its a healthy solid flat tappet

a 306" for a street strip car, I'd look at something like a AFR 185, TFS 195 or similar. Dart has a couple of nice aluminum heads too.

Its real easy to get to big of heads on a NA small motor.

IMO if you stroke it to 347 your options open up.

dfree383 wrote:a 306" for a street strip car, I'd look at something like a AFR 185, TFS 195 or similar. Dart has a couple of nice aluminum heads too.

Its real easy to get to big of heads on a NA small motor.

IMO if you stroke it to 347 your options open up.

Okay thanks. My main money is going into the big block car, but i figured the sb deserved better than iron heads. I don't want too big of heads for sure. 3k stall or so. I think heads on it now are E7's? That sound right? Sorry im small block ignorant. Not like my c8, c9, doove nomenclature

Those two will blow a set of factory Iron heads out of the water.

dfree383 wrote:Those two will blow a set of factory Iron heads out of the water.

Are there any geometry or valve issues with the afr or tfs heads like the kaase big block heads? If I had to change pistons id stroke to a 347.

My AFR 185's required a small notch to clear the valves with a comp XE282HR cam. Par for the course when you have the biggest off the shelf cam that was available at the time. That was an 89 5.0l IIRC. Other than that I have not had a problem with them and they are 11-12 years old.

our world products iron head 306 made 534 hp na, now this was on methanol, and not real street friendly.

we did another 306, stock 5.0 block and crank, scat i beam rods, kb hyper pistons, 13-1, .600 max lift solid roller, out of the box 205 afrs w a supervictor intake, made 551 on alky na on turning it 7000 due to the stock block.

we ran 11.0's 10.90's with a flat tapped 306, bone stock 5.0 bottom w kb hypers, and some ported 351 windsor heads back in the day at 2950 pounds..... on alky of course lol. on gas it ran 11.20's

the afr heads have the valves closer to the deck, we had piston to valve clearance issues w the je pistons we had, so rather than buy new pistons we stuck the world products heads on the the first motor.

the 2nd motor was a bastard we made from a bunch of parts lying around and had to cut the hypers to get the pv to work with the low lift cam and afr's.........the afr has shit for spring package so plan on changing those also, and we did the valves also as they have issues..... good casting though lol.

hell the afr head motor is for sale.........

richter69 wrote:the afr heads have the valves closer to the deck, we had piston to valve clearance issues w the je pistons we had, so rather than buy new pistons we stuck the world products heads on the the first motor.

the 2nd motor was a bastard we made from a bunch of parts lying around and had to cut the hypers to get the pv to work with the low lift cam and afr's.........the afr has shit for spring package so plan on changing those also, and we did the valves also as they have issues..... good casting though lol.

hell the afr head motor is for sale.........

Lol well like i stated before the major money goes to the big block car....which incidentally is not nearly as set up as the sb car and has a full interior and 4 point cage. My understanding is that the stock sb bottom end and decent top end parts will easily surpass the block

yes it will, our old windsor head motor split 2 5.0 blocks over time.

richter69 wrote:yes it will, our old windsor head motor split 2 5.0 blocks over time.

Then i will enjoy it until it splits

hear that, it wont make a huge mess when it does..........run it!

hear that, it wont make a huge mess when it does..........run it!

I'd look on the corral for a set of used AFRs of TFS heads; I see good deals there all the time. I sold my HP 225's for about 2/3 of new.

richter69 wrote:hear that, it wont make a huge mess when it does..........run it!

So other than tearing it apart, what would indicate to you that it split internally? Because I'm using a 5.0 block and I want to know what to look out for.

lower than norm or fluctuating oil press, water coming out the header lol

richter69 wrote:lower than norm or fluctuating oil press, water coming out the header lol

Got it

Justin,I would'nt be too concerned w/splitting the block unless it's a all out race engine. They will take a pretty good beating until you start making lots of HP.

bbf-falcon wrote:Justin,I would'nt be too concerned w/splitting the block unless it's a all out race engine. They will take a pretty good beating until you start making lots of HP.

My only worries were with the rpm's, we'll see how it turns out. Hopefully it all works well

bb429power wrote:

bbf-falcon wrote:Justin,I would'nt be too concerned w/splitting the block unless it's a all out race engine. They will take a pretty good beating until you start making lots of HP.

My only worries were with the rpm's, we'll see how it turns out. Hopefully it all works well

N/A stuff is a little easier on them than the NO2 and Blowers.

Just keep the RPM at a reasonable level and it will work.

our first block we split was an factory iron head, flat tappet low compression non race n/a motor never turned over 6600...... it did have a lot of runs on it though..........