new project!

whitefield wrote:How much metal was in the pan ? What about the other bearings ?

it had a lot of metal in the pan and a few big chunks up top with the lifters,lol.it's been eating itself the whole time with the pistons hitting the heads.the #5 bearing was kinda ugly too but was'nt spun.other bearings looked ok,not 6 passes old ok but not dead.this is a real good reason to use parts that work together if your not able to do some "fitting".i like building my own stuff and i thought i had this one another good reason to let the pros do what they do if you have the $$.

cool40 wrote:

whitefield wrote:How much metal was in the pan ? What about the other bearings ?

it had a lot of metal in the pan and a few big chunks up top with the lifters,lol.it's been eating itself the whole time with the pistons hitting the heads.the #5 bearing was kinda ugly too but was'nt spun.other bearings looked ok,not 6 passes old ok but not dead.this is a real good reason to use parts that work together if your not able to do some "fitting".i like building my own stuff and i thought i had this one another good reason to let the pros do what they do if you have the $$.

You are right ! I am kinda like you are I like doing it myself! lol . Either way its a bad deal and I hate it for you. good luck!

i got a few passes on it! mostly to try out brakes and some 60' hits.i think it needs a 4link adjustment tho,hits the tire a little hard. this was the 2'nd hit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_K0F5ewFjw&feature=youtu.be  it goes a little left too. 1.16 60'  the oil psi drop on the brakes sucks ass and the battery mount broke so i called it a day.

cool40 wrote:i got a few passes on it! mostly to try out brakes and some 60' hits.i think it needs a 4link adjustment tho,hits the tire a little hard. this was the 2'nd hit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_K0F5ewFjw&feature=youtu.be  it goes a little left too. 1.16 60'  the oil psi drop on the brakes sucks ass and the battery mount broke so i called it a day.

Where did the I/C length & height end up at? How far back from full tight was the rear shock's extension & compression valving adjustments set?

If it went left only while on the wheelie bars (but then drove straight once it got off the wheelie bars) the rear suspension's side-to-side preload might be OK (or in the ballpark) and instead it might just need a little wheelie bar height stagger (right side a little lower).

If it kept trying to go left kinda hard from the launch all the way to the finishline, (and you're sure the housing is sitting in the car straight/square) then take some preload out of the right side top 4-link bar (make it a little longer).

If it was just an annoying minor little twitch to the left all the way down the track, you could try taking a very small amount of preload out of the anti-roll instead of adjusting the 4-link ...... just don't go crazy cranking on the ARB.

I must have missed something. What happened to the engine?

Dave C. wrote:I must have missed something. What happened to the engine?

too much dome on the piston.  

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

cool40 wrote:i got a few passes on it! mostly to try out brakes and some 60' hits.i think it needs a 4link adjustment tho,hits the tire a little hard. this was the 2'nd hit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_K0F5ewFjw&feature=youtu.be  it goes a little left too. 1.16 60'  the oil psi drop on the brakes sucks ass and the battery mount broke so i called it a day.

Where did the I/C length & height end up at? How far back from full tight was the rear shock's extension & compression valving adjustments set?

If it went left only while on the wheelie bars (but then drove straight once it got off the wheelie bars) the rear suspension's side-to-side preload might be OK (or in the ballpark) and instead it might just need a little wheelie bar height stagger (right side a little lower).

If it kept trying to go left kinda hard from the launch all the way to the finishline, (and you're sure the housing is sitting in the car straight/square) then take some preload out of the right side top 4-link bar (make it a little longer).

If it was just an annoying minor little twitch to the left all the way down the track, you could try taking a very small amount of preload out of the anti-roll instead of adjusting the 4-link ...... just don't go crazy cranking on the ARB.

Dave it goes left as fast as it comes up,maybe before,lol. After the hit it dont pull left at all tho. I had to go back and remeasure today.the car is 52% on the nose @ 2550 with me in it.we put very little prelaod in it and left the arb neutral.i just checked the 4link out again and its 7" from the ground to the front lower bolt(center). 7.5 in the rear. Bar spread is 6 1/4 front,11 rear.

I'd take about 4 flats of preload out of the top right bar and see if it helps,if it does take a little more.

When i scaled it i jacked the lf spring up to load the rr so i'll start by taking that out.It may end up with negative preload.

why did you do that?

cars w power need more weight on the ds rear.

richter69 wrote:why did you do that?

cars w power need more weight on the ds rear.

Jon i did'nt know where to start,lol.the last time i scaled it was 15yr ago and it did'nt have power:lol: i'm gona change it up some and see what it'll do.if i can make a good pass it may blow the windows out.  

post up some corner weights...

richter69 wrote:post up some corner weights...

the corner weight is where the problem was i think,as far as the lefthand launch,lol. it makes the power to need negative preload,IMO and it did'nt have that. i've watched the video and it also eat the sidewalls up so i'm moving the IC from 48"to 55"out.
LF-729
LR-607
RF-588
RR-612
1316 FRONT
1218 REAR

cool40 wrote:
LF-729
LR-607
RF-588
RR-612

IMO the RR is too heavy vs the LR in a car with decent torque numbers, and might be why it's going left. If you did add some spring height stagger in the left front, that would also increase the weight load diagonally over on the right rear a given amount. You might try taking the front spring stagger back out before anything else.


You might also try a simple/quick check (without the scales) of where the top right 4-link bar preload is at. Set the car on level ground with all the "race ready" weight in it (driver, fuel, etc) , all tires at correct pressure, bounce the car (front & back) a few times & let settle, roll it forward/back a few times, then reach under the car and wiggle the top right 4-link bar. If it's loose & rattles easily on it's rod-ends this is considered to be sitting at/around "neutral" or "zero" preload on the right/passenger side, and is a good general preload starting point for a 4-link car with decent torque numbers.

If the top right bar doesn't rattle easily, & in fact has some/a lot of load on it, then the top right bar has either some preload (short for more weight) or negative preload (long for less weight) dialed in on the top right side.

Dave i did add weight with the LF spring to get the RR where it was and to level the car.the front springs are old so i may get new for that end.i checked the housing again and its dead on as far as square in the car.i'd fixed the going left problem at the track but had other issues and just loaded it up.after the bearing trouble last time i wanted to check things out before i ran it much.will moving up one hole in the front on the top bar take some hit out of the car? The IC is 48"out,6"up now.it would go to about 55"out and 5.5"up.thanks!

It's possible it can still be a violent hit even after moving the I/C out to 55" from 48" if the rear shock's extension valving is set on the loose side of the range. If the original 48" out was hitting the tire too hard while the rear extension valving was set at/near full-tight, then a longer I/C (and/or lower) is usually one of the next things to think about trying.

ok,it was a good night! tnt track conditions,shit for air,lost the vac pump belt and put trans fluid out about 500'. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_4EwS9BWoY&feature=youtu.be

Nice pass!

what chassis adj did you make?

richter69 wrote:what chassis adj did you make?

i set all the springs back to level and put the 4 link back to neutral.it did have a IC of 48"out and 6"up,now its 56.5"out and 6.5"up.first pass it went right a little so i put 1/2 a flat in the top rr bar and she went down the track.i realy wanted to run again but no belt on the vac pump and trans fluid under the car...piss on it.a little more chassis tuning and less fuel will get real close to where i want to be. 

whats up w u and tranny fluid problems? lol

richter69 wrote:whats up w u and tranny fluid problems?  lol

i aint looked at it yet but i think it just filled the tank up,its small and vented.i had to cut the tube and stick off to go under the trans cover so i lost some fluid in the process.it must a been over full,lol.i may put my old tank on,its big enough to hold a qt. hell the stick may have come out

You mentioned wheel speed in your oil pan thread, that's the first thing I thought when I saw the new video. But I also went back and looked at the older left launch video again and there might have been some wheel speed there too. It just might have been masked some by the left twitch wadding the tire a little more.

Pre load in the front springs.............. Looks like to me that only works if your front tires stay on the ground. Pre load would decrease as front spring unloads.

IDT-572 wrote:Pre load in the front springs.............. Looks like to me that only works if your front tires stay on the ground. Pre load would decrease as front spring unloads.

the LF spring was up a lot to get weight on the RR,but it went left at launch.i did'nt like the springs like that anyway so i started over.with a big tire car its hard to load either rear tire on the springs cuz they're so close together.the 4link will move the weight very fast and IMO works best.i've learned that when you get to a point where you have enough power you can use the wheelie bars and shocks to get wheel speed.i could'nt make it work with my old ladder bar deal cuz it just hit too hard and unloaded the chassis,and dead hooking sure aint no option.