new project!

little more done.

i got a good deal on some more weight loss parts i needed some new front tires anyway so....... the magnums weigh 10lbs less than the stars,and i did'nt add the strut hub,bearings, and lugs.at least 20lbs

baller......

very nice Lee

bruno wrote:very nice Lee

thanks Nick. this chassis building sucks,lol. i am getting some good practice tig welding tho....

cool40 wrote:i got a good deal on some more weight loss parts i needed some new front tires anyway so....... the magnums weigh 10lbs less than the stars,and i did'nt add the strut hub,bearings, and lugs.at least 20lbs

I like those front wheels Lee,Im gona get a set of the Black ones for the Falcon.Show car has to look good ya know.

look out Rick,hErO will call you a "baller"

i'm about done welding! i've got most everything to finish it up if i can find the time.......

grandma was slow, but she was old.......

Ain't you still missing a bunch of bars? A little early to call it almost done, isn't it?

richter69 wrote:grandma was slow, but she was old.......

she had a paycheck in the mail too.

dfree383 wrote:Ain't you still missing a bunch of bars? A little early to call it almost done, isn't it?

how you figure........

I might be wrong but from that angle it looks like the front frame rails ended up a little farther apart than what a purpose built Full chassis does since this chassis did start out as a back-half chassis/stock front frame layout.

If the front frame rails did end up a little farther apart than "normal" full chassis layout be sure to check for unwanted bump-steer just incase the wider frame rail/shorter control arm combo created any.

Hard to tell from the pics but if it's getting a SFI 25.1F cert one bar it still needs is the #6C center foot bar. And the 2 extra diagonals (#39) needed if the #6C foot bar isn't in line with the 6A & 6B R/L foot bars. And if it's getting a front mounted fuel cell don't forget the cell bar/guard.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:I might be wrong but from that angle it looks like the front frame rails ended up a little farther apart than what a purpose built Full chassis does since this chassis did start out as a back-half chassis/stock front frame layout.

If the front frame rails did end up a little farther apart than "normal" full chassis layout be sure to check for unwanted bump-steer just incase the wider frame rail/shorter control arm combo created any.

Hard to tell from the pics but if it's getting a SFI 25.1F cert one bar it still needs is the #6C center foot bar. And the 2 extra diagonals (#39) needed if the #6C foot bar isn't in line with the 6A & 6B R/L foot bars. And if it's getting a front mounted fuel cell don't forget the cell bar/guard.

Dave the frame rails are a little farther apart than normal but it worked out good cuz my old 2x3 chassis was too.i never had bump steer problems with it and with 3"stroke struts i would'nt think i should. i'm not up on the bars your talking about or any of the 25-1 realy the car was 25-1 and all i did was change the frontend.the trans crossmember would just be in the way so i left it out. some say it can be a bolt in and some say welded but i dont use it.i thought about a bar at the firewall under the converter but the way i have my midmount i realy did'nt see the need for it.does the cell bar need to be welded in? i still gota make it but thought i'd pin it on like my other one. i'd sure put the bars in if i know where they go. thanks this is a good shot of what i cut out.

cool40 wrote:

In that pic the 1 - 5/8" trans x-member you cut out was probably in effect the #6C center foot bar. The 2 1 - 5/8" bars (one each side) starting at base/bottom of the windshield bars, running diagonally back to the main frame rails were the #6A & 6B right/left foot bars. The two 1 - 5/8" bars running from the main frame rails diagonally back to the trans x-member it's self were the two #39 bars/braces.


On a SFI 25.1F cert the #6C center foot bar must be welded in regardless of where it's placed, it can't be removable. For 25.1F you can have a removable trans x-member only as long as it's not also the #6C foot bar.
In the other pics the two new 1 - 5/8" front bars you added each side (in front of your feet) from the bottom of the windshield bars across to the main frame rails are in effect the new #6A/6B R/L foot bars. If you add a new 1 - 5/8" center bar running between the frame rails (under the mid plate/trans bellhousing area) installed inline with the two already installed #6A/6B foot bars, that new center bar will become the #6C center foot bar. If installed this way (all 3 bars C/L's inline with each other) the 2 extra #39 diagonal bars/braces aren't needed. If instead you weld in a 1 - 5/8" bar as the new trans x-member, this can be used as the new #6C center foot bar as long as 2 #39 braces are also installed. This is because the #39 braces are added on 25.1F when all 3 "foot bars" (A, B, & C) aren't all on the same centerline.


The #39 bars (when installed "inside" the main rails) help transfer the side crash load force from the 6A+B side foot bars to the offset 6C center foot bar when all 3 aren't on the same C/L. The #39 bars (when installed "outside" the main rails) transfer the side crash load force from the base of the windshield bars (or some point on the 6A+B bars) to the offset 6C center foot bar.


The fuel cell bar/guard can be either welded in, or a slip fit joint. If it was me I would bolt together a slip joint mount vs using pull pins, tire shake can do some strange things to pull pins.


If you're shooting for a 25.1F SFI cert, (or any of the other SFI certs) you really need to get yourself a book now before you go any further. Just might save you a bunch of headaches later.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

cool40 wrote:

In that pic the 1 - 5/8" trans x-member you cut out was probably in effect the #6C center foot bar. The 2 1 - 5/8" bars (one each side) starting at base/bottom of the windshield bars, running diagonally back to the main frame rails were the #6A & 6B right/left foot bars. The two 1 - 5/8" bars running from the main frame rails diagonally back to the trans x-member it's self were the two #39 bars/braces.


On a SFI 25.1F cert the #6C center foot bar must be welded in regardless of where it's placed, it can't be removable. For 25.1F you can have a removable trans x-member only as long as it's not also the #6C foot bar.
In the other pics the two new 1 - 5/8" front bars you added each side (in front of your feet) from the bottom of the windshield bars across to the main frame rails are in effect the new #6A/6B R/L foot bars. If you add a new 1 - 5/8" center bar running between the frame rails (under the mid plate/trans bellhousing area) installed inline with the two already installed #6A/6B foot bars, that new center bar will become the #6C center foot bar. If installed this way (all 3 bars C/L's inline with each other) the 2 extra #39 diagonal bars/braces aren't needed. If instead you weld in a 1 - 5/8" bar as the new trans x-member, this can be used as the new #6C center foot bar as long as 2 #39 braces are also installed. This is because the #39 braces are added on 25.1F when all 3 "foot bars" (A, B, & C) aren't all on the same centerline.


The #39 bars (when installed "inside" the main rails) help transfer the side crash load force from the 6A+B side foot bars to the offset 6C center foot bar when all 3 aren't on the same C/L. The #39 bars (when installed "outside" the main rails) transfer the side crash load force from the base of the windshield bars (or some point on the 6A+B bars) to the offset 6C center foot bar.


The fuel cell bar/guard can be either welded in, or a slip fit joint. If it was me I would bolt together a slip joint mount vs using pull pins, tire shake can do some strange things to pull pins.


If you're shooting for a 25.1F SFI cert, (or any of the other SFI certs) you really need to get yourself a book now before you go any further. Just might save you a bunch of headaches later.

Money well spent and as Dave said it will save a lot of headaches!

thanks Dave i thought those were the bars in question.i'll set the engine/trans back in and bend me a center tube.i'm not too worried about get'n a cert on it but the book aint but $35 so i'll get one.no reason to build this kind of car and not know if it'd cert.

Its coming along nicely Lee.

Very very nice. My car next???

thanks guys maybe this bar will get me by i got the cell and radiator on too...

Is the new center foot bar going to have enough ground clearence with that much bend in it? If it's crossing just below the converter you could use less bend and sung it up fairly close to the converter body if you needed more ground clearence. You could probably go as tight as an inch clearence between the bar an the converter body if you had too. It would just make pulling the trans & engine out as an assembly a little harder.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Is the new center foot bar going to have enough ground clearence with that much bend in it? If it's crossing just below the converter you could use less bend and sung it up fairly close to the converter body if you needed more ground clearence. You could probably go as tight as an inch clearence between the bar an the converter body if you had too. It would just make pulling the trans & engine out as an assembly a little harder.

It looks like it should be ok Dave, it's higher than the pan anyway.

it got just enough room for the trans to come out i even made sure! the oil pan is lower than the bar a little.the trans pan is about the same as the bar. the front tires i got were shorter than i'd like but thats just part of the fun the oil pan will be about 3" off the ground but the struts only have 3/4" left to go down so..............

stand it up hard that 2 1/4" wont be enough........ even at 40 psi the tires will compress......

wheelie bars

Nevs wrote:It looks like it should be ok Dave, it's higher than the pan anyway.

Ha, I guess the bottom corner of the oil pan is visable in the right side of the pic. I didn't notice it at first.