who runs moser axles?

i'm ready to get parts for the rear and can get a very good deal on moser.i've never ran any so what yall think? 40 spline,aluminum case............

They are great. We run 40 spline mosers. What lengths do you need?

mosers here

whatbumper wrote:They are great. We run 40 spline mosers. What lengths do you need?

37" housing.i have the old axles to measure,one is just bent a little.

Got 35 spline Moser in the Ranger, its an 8.8 but went rounds with Strange about the c-clip eliminators for a week and finally just called Moser and had my axles and spool 3 days later. Had great customer service to boot.

Got 35 spline Moser in the Ranger, its an 8.8 but went rounds with Strange about the c-clip eliminators for a week and finally just called Moser and had my axles and spool 3 days later. Had great customer service to boot.

steel case.......

Running 31 spline here no problems from the axles,

richter69 wrote:steel case.......

heavy..........

if you have ever set up a few alum cases you'll forget about the weight savings.

Moser 31 spline here. Had them drilled for both 5/8" and 1/2" studs when I bought them in 96. Upgraded to 5/8" studs a few years ago.

richter69 wrote:if you have ever set up a few alum cases you'll forget about the weight savings.

i hope moser knows how to do it......

Moser 35-spline axles here.

My only regret is not having them drilled for 5/8" studs.

cool40 wrote:

richter69 wrote:if you have ever set up a few alum cases you'll forget about the weight savings.

i hope moser knows how to do it......

then you wont understand what im talkin about.

The aluminum cases will move around more than the steel cases, just the nature of these things. But above a given power level the softer high impact nickel Pro gears are going to get a good workout & see some accelerated wear anyway regardless of what material the case is made of.

The strongest/lightest gun drilled 40 spline axles are going to be the Mark Williams 300M stuff.....but also damn expensive. The stronger 300M alloy allows them to use a larger gun drill bore diameter than the normal axle material will allow. The Moser 40 spline solid axle is probably more than strong enough for a non power adder deal, cheaper but heavier.

i have looked at the MW and was gona go that way but the "deal" on moser stuff came up.moser has a drilled 40 spline too.. http://www.moserengineering.com/catalog/product/gallery/id/797/image/725/

Moser 35 spline with Star flange in mine.

Moser once told me the 35 spline solid was the same weight as a 40 spline gun drilled. The 40 spline gun drilled would be stronger of course, but if the 35 solid is strong enough.....put the extra chunk of change elsewhere in the car.

good way to tell how big of an axle you need:

http://qp.doonce.com/axle_tech.htm

MINE:

You spend all the money to get the bearings and gears rem finished, then all the setup time to get it just right alll to find the next morning when the shop has cooled down the nice smooth "feel" you had the evening before is now tighter than nun pussy........ I'm sure its splitting hairs, but so is the weight savings from a alum case thats got enough beef in it to have the same strength as the iron unit.


my 40 spline gun drilled strange axles were a good bit lighter than the solid 35 splines I pulled out...... yes the 40's were a tad shorter but we are talkin 5" combined length.

it might not matter as much on a shorter axle for a big tire deal vs a longer small tire application.

cool40 wrote:.........moser has a drilled 40 spline too........

Yea but it's just not the same deal. IIRC Moser's heat treat is different (I think a softer flange area) & their gun drill bore diameter is smaller than the MW 300M 1-1/16" G/D bore.

richter69 wrote:You spend all the money to get the bearings and gears rem finished, then all the setup time to get it just right alll to find the next morning when the shop has cooled down the nice smooth "feel" you had the evening before is now tighter than nun pussy........ I'm sure its splitting hairs, but so is the weight savings from a alum case thats got enough beef in it to have the same strength as the iron unit.


my 40 spline gun drilled strange axles were a good bit lighter than the solid 35 splines I pulled out...... yes the 40's were a tad shorter but we are talkin 5" combined length.

it might not matter as much on a shorter axle for a big tire deal vs a longer small tire application.

i've been tig welding this 4130 moly and i'm not very good at it. splitting hairs...........maybe,but at this point,why not? every pound counts and best i can find out its 15 or so on the aluminum vs iron.

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:

cool40 wrote:.........moser has a drilled 40 spline too........

Yea but it's just not the same deal. IIRC Moser's heat treat is different (I think a softer flange area) & their gun drill bore diameter is smaller than the MW 300M 1-1/16" G/D bore.

the 300m looks like the shit for sure. i think the axles that were in it came from moser.the pass side that hit the wall has about .020 run out.

Well I guess if the old Moser axles were 40 spline, and one original axle is straigh/good & usable, the cheapest way to go is to just order 1 new axle to replace the bent one.

And if the old axles are 35 spline, replacing just one axle still might work. Just depends on how much power they might see in the future.

David Cole wrote:Moser 35 spline with Star flange in mine.

Moser once told me the 35 spline solid was the same weight as a 40 spline gun drilled. The 40 spline gun drilled would be stronger of course, but if the 35 solid is strong enough.....put the extra chunk of change elsewhere in the car.

good way to tell how big of an axle you need:

http://qp.doonce.com/axle_tech.htm

MINE:

i dont know David,this things got ALKY on it......maybe a 40 will hold.

cool40 wrote:......i've been tig welding this 4130 moly and i'm not very good at it.......

Make sure the weld joint/heat zone is very "clean" & prepped.......

Sand off the moly tubing's black/gray scale coating at the weld joint with fine emery cloth & clean with Acetone.

Sand/smooth sharp edges/burs of the fishmouthed tubing with fine emery cloth & clean with Acetone.

Plan out where your tack-welds will go. This is usually more important with wire/Mig welding (you don't want to start a big cold Mig puddle/pass right on top of a big cold Mig tack) but similar thinking still applies to Tig welding too. While you can start a Tig pass on top of a small Tig tack, it should be avoided if it's at the start of an inside corner pass (thicker area of joint, possibly colder weld). Placing a Tig tack(s) at the planed end of a given pass/puddle is usually a good idea (especially on thinner materials) to help avoid an "end of run" burn-through if you don't pedal-off the foot controll enough at the end of the weld pass. Similar thinking is to place an extra Tig tack (or three) anywhere a fitted weld joint might have a little too big of a gap to easily fill normally.

Wire brush & clean with Acetone all the Tig tacks before making any full passes. And it's also a good idea to wire brush/clean the tail ends of any full Tig passes (that have cooled & sat for a while) before starting a new pass on top of the tail of an old pass.

And if you don't normally wear "reading" glasses to read and/or Mig weld, give them a try anyway when Tig welding. Makes a big difference (for me anyway) since a Tig puddle is usually so much smaller than the average Mig puddle. I usually Tig with a + 1.50 to a +2.50 cheap reading glasses depending on how thick the material being welded is (get them from walmart or wherever).

I've got 33 spline Moser axles in both my cars.Never had a problem in either one since going to them.I twisted a set of Strange axles 4 splines in the Tbird,they said as long as they aren't twisted over 5 to run them. I don't like that idea in my car