Need help getting to running a 7.0 1/8th mile

All right I found a class I want to run this year. Its the 7.0 class. My car is a 85 mustang with a 466 2443 trw pistons, c9 heads with cj valves also ported with roller rocker, stock rods( stress riser has been removed and shot peened), crank, solid roller .630 is the lift cant remember the duration vic intake 1050 dominator. c6 transmission with ati 3500 converter. 9in in the back with 3.70 gears and moser guts. On the chassis dyno it made 450 to the tire at 6500 still climbing and 422lf lbs. The car did weigh 3480 race ready. It ran 11.40s at 121-3 mph and 7.37 at 96mph with a 1.78 60ft. Im trying to get some weight out of it. Race seats, sound mat etc. I am real leary of spraying this motor because of the stock rods. But I put a cheater plate on it but havent used it. I know the car dont 60ft like it should and the converter is really tight. I have a 4.22 gear I could put in it to see if it would leave better. Or is a 50 shot or so the only way to get a 6.90 - 7.0 out of it without tearing it apart?

With a little tweeking it should'nt be too hard w/o nos imo. start out by eleminating weight.

Yep. Weight loss is cheap. The 60 ft. is pretty lazy, so ignoring the snug converter, I'd guess weight loss and gearing will get you there. Does this thing see any street duty?

I think you should get there with what you have pretty easily. I think there is a ton to be gained in 60 foot. Is it spinning? What convertor is in it? At 96 MPH in the 1/8, I think it should 60 in the 1.50's.

Like Rick said, get some more weight off of it, decent convertor, and the lower gear and you're there. IMO convertor and a good hook most important.

TJ

put a good conv in it or stick the 4.22 gear in w what u got...........

If it was me, I'd keep in mind that good 7 sec. bracket cars tend to be REALLY consistent. That said, you'll probably be a little more consistent if you do it without the bottle. Less tuning, fewer variables......

It doesnt spin. Cant tell much but heres the video from 2010. Motor sat last year.

The converter is way too tight and not enough gear. Does it have a trans brake? Where are you planning on running? Around here if you cant be .030 or better on the .400 tree doesn't matter what the car can run.

start it and do a burnout......

I agree with all thats been said...gotta get it leaving harder..butn not so aggressive you cant hook consistant.. One other thing...and not all will agree here.. If you dont have much $ in your c6 start looking for a c4.. Itnis worth about .07 in the 1/8th.. Gotta watch for a bell and if you get to bigger power one day you will find some longevity issues...but what you are doing it would be fine and if you get close and need a little more it will work...jmo

my pig of a truck went 7.10's with a 1.5x 60ft the last time out.
With some tweeking and maybe the recommended gear change you should be there.
We have similar engine builds. You have a much larger carb 850-vs-1150.
You are also around 400lbs lighter and not as boxy
Oh and I use a transbrake. You didn't mention having one.

put the gear in it and see what it does.100 mph should put you in the 6.80's and it's all about the 60' for 1/8 mile deal.

I would try the gear change if you already have the gears all it would cost is the gear oil and some rtv.If that don't get you there get a looser converter.

The 1st converter I had in mine was a 3500 and it was tight for my engine I keep it at 6500rpm also 1.60s to 1.58 was about the best I could get out of it 7.27 in the 1/8 went to the 4500 converter in it now and went to 1.42 60' times and 6.72 to 6.78 with the same 99.5mph in the 1/8 just couldn't get 100mph out of it in the 1/8 my truck is 3365 with me in it but I have a 4.88 gear with 31x10.5 w mt slicks.

1) get as much weight out of the car as you can.
2) get a convertor built for it.
3) some more gear will work for 1/8 mile stuff
4) Get some slicks and start working on your suspension.

I have slicks for this year. We ran a stock 302 with some nitrous same suspension when the bigblock was in there. The small block went 10.98 with 1.59 60ft. I dont have a transbreak. I will put the gears in and see what weight I can pull out. Going to order some strange 10 ways struts for the front. When the funds allow I will also put a tube k member in the car.

those slicks have been fast, should be worth at least 72.54 hp on your application.........

richter69 wrote:those slicks have been fast, should be worth at least 72.54 hp on your application.........

LOL bolt ons

Hey just have Jon come overe and touch it it should do 7.0 easy

I have touched it..........

richter69 wrote:I have touched it..........

Didn't work.

I may T bag it next............

richter69 wrote:I may T bag it next............

Whatever it takes as long as the hEro juice stays in the bag.

Will it be .500 or .400 tree? Throttle stop or mechanical stop. Also once you get it to 7.0, how do you plan to keep it there with weather changes?

6.0 and 7.0 have become very popular especially in AL. Some very tough racing indeed. Teen lights and dead on are the norm for the guys that go rounds.

PanaVet wrote:Will it be .500 or .400 tree? Throttle stop or mechanical stop. Also once you get it to 7.0, how do you plan to keep it there with weather changes?

6.0 and 7.0 have become very popular especially in AL. Some very tough racing indeed. Teen lights and dead on are the norm for the guys that go rounds.

So true. 6.0 and 7.0 cars are pretty well behaved on the track, so some can print time slips like Xerox.

85bigblockfox, you wouldn't happen to be in 'Bama, would you? If so, you've picked a fun class to race. ..but you'll probably hafta trailer a lot of cars to get paid.