oil pump ....if i cant get a kaase one whats next best thing ??

the kaase oil pumpos are out of productiuon for 2 months ....

whats the next best thing on a production block .....close to 700hp

Wait for two months.

Contact Paul Kane at High Flow Dynamics. Kaase has a great pump but Paul's pumps work really well also and aren't as expensive. I have gotten 2 from him for 2 different builds and both have been excellent. He is on this forum.

i may wait 2 months if that much better of a pump

5pointslow wrote:the kaase oil pumpos are out of productiuon for 2 months ....

whats the next best thing on a production block .....close to 700hp

We all used the Melling pumps for years w/o problems. The weak link is the housing necks on the rear sump models.

bbf-falcon wrote:

5pointslow wrote:the kaase oil pumpos are out of productiuon for 2 months ....

whats the next best thing on a production block .....close to 700hp

We all used the Melling pumps for years w/o problems. The weak link is the housing necks on the rear sump models.

...and a well designed brace system for the Melling pump eliminates the housing failure.
You may also consider an external pump system.
Keith

brace ? homeade deal or can it be bought ?

thanks guys

5pointslow wrote:brace ? homeade deal or can it be bought ?

thanks guys

I custom make them for all of the wet sump engines that we build. Later this year, I will have production braces.
Very basic, fabricated from .125"x1" flat steel, bracing the pump to the main cap. On my front sump engine, I have two. Rear sumps just need one to the front main cap. If you have an A460 block, you can attach it to the 5/16" puller hole in the cap center. Eliminator blocks, I drill and tap the front cap in the center for 5/16". OE blocks...use a factory bolt with the tray mount stud sticking out (fom Lem) , or ARP makes a main stud with a 3/8" tray mount extension stud.
My normal brace attaches to one of the cover bolts.
We also spot face the mounting bolt surface of the Melling pump, so the bolts have a nice flat surface to torque, not the rough uneven cast bolt seat.
You can PM me for more detail or call me at 678-458-2033 or call Ted at Engine Systems at 770-491-0583. Ted made the spot facing tool....and owns the shop.
Keith

I couldn't wait last year when I built my new motor either. I called Paul Kane and his recommendation to me was to use a stock melling pump with a better pickup. Most pickups are less than .625 ID. I used a piece of 1"x.065 tubing and bent my own tube and made a pickup. I had to pull the melling pump apart and enlarge the inlet ID a bit. My 557 has the most rock solid and steady oil psi of any motor I've ever owned and I contribute that to the pickup design and size. Only plus of the Kaase pimp IMO is the beefiness of it.

Race Ready Fabrications wrote: Only plus of the Kaase pimp IMO is the beefiness of it.

ONLY...?
It does have an inlet tract to BOTH sides of the gerotor similar to the OEM oil pump for a CJ which does increase the efficiency of the pumping unit.

rmcomprandy wrote:

Race Ready Fabrications wrote: Only plus of the Kaase pimp IMO is the beefiness of it.

ONLY...?
It does have an inlet tract to BOTH sides of the gerotor similar to the OEM oil pump for a CJ which does increase the efficiency of the pumping unit.

X2

Titan... no complaint, aint the cheapest piece out there. But there are now two options street or top fuel performance.

If you use a rear sump Melling at least make sure the pickup doesn't put it in a bind. I've seen two crack the bases due to the pickup being "pulled" down when the nut was tightened on the pickup hold down. One of them broke completely when I tugged on it a bit... Apparently we had just found the pressure leak...

Wheelie58 wrote:

5pointslow wrote:brace ? homeade deal or can it be bought ?

thanks guys

I custom make them for all of the wet sump engines that we build. Later this year, I will have production braces.
Very basic, fabricated from .125"x1" flat steel, bracing the pump to the main cap. On my front sump engine, I have two. Rear sumps just need one to the front main cap. If you have an A460 block, you can attach it to the 5/16" puller hole in the cap center. Eliminator blocks, I drill and tap the front cap in the center for 5/16". OE blocks...use a factory bolt with the tray mount stud sticking out (fom Lem) , or ARP makes a main stud with a 3/8" tray mount extension stud.
My normal brace attaches to one of the cover bolts.
We also spot face the mounting bolt surface of the Melling pump, so the bolts have a nice flat surface to torque, not the rough uneven cast bolt seat.
You can PM me for more detail or call me at 678-458-2033 or call Ted at Engine Systems at 770-491-0583. Ted made the spot facing tool....and owns the shop.
Keith

JUST LIKE Keith said. MY MOTORSPORTS block has a 1' strap from the bottom of the pump to the main bolt that has a stud on it. I wished I took pictures last week end as I dropped the pan and inspected everything and shimmed up the pump with one of Paul shim kits. I think i found my own oil pressure problems as it's a high volume pump and I went back and checked my records and noticed that the prior owner has no idea who's oil pan is on the motor and say's it holds 10 quarts. That means I'm 2 -3 quarts low because I have a 3 quart accu-sump and the line so i could be causing my own problems. I was running 11 quarts total...

Ace

This pulling season I ran a Kasse pump in my 509 I built and opened the pump inlet up to .875" and done some porting to it, along with a modded truck pan and a 1'' Paul Kane "style" pickup tube and help from Paul, I ran 85-90 psi running between 9100 -9800 all seaon, oil pressure curve on the dyno was amazing.........