Let's talk 4 link setup on a backhalved car...

Trying to get the 4 link setup in the rough ballpark so I can make sure the ride height I have will work with the 4 link settings.

Where should the bottom bar be in relation to the ground? Parallel? Down in the front slightly?

How far out front should the intersect point be?

I need to get the 4 link sorted out to make sure the ride height doesn't need to change so I can get the driveshaft enclosure welded in place. Just want to make sure there is enough room for the shaft to move up/down in the enclosure...

When deciding on the placement of aftermarket 4-link chassis brackets in the car you can shoot for a general/usable starting point for the I/C. But you might also take the extra time to also look into how big of an adjustment window various different bracket placements will give you.

For a drag door car the 2 most common starting points for an aftermarket 4-link bottom bar is usually either level with the ground, or slightly downhill at the front. As a starting point it's really just a coin flip either way, choose one or the other since you can always change them later. Of course you could also go beyond that if you want to (or need to), because every car is different.

Figuring the starting point for the top bar angle (and thus I/C distance out) can be a real PITA since again every car is different. Generally IMO you usually don't want to go any less than 40" out on an initial setup for the average "unknown" combo, and no more than say 60" out. For a lower powered car 40 to 45" out would probably be a decent starting point, add more power/torque and 45 to 55" out might be a better idea. But looking at the big picture placing the chassis brackets so you could hit anything from say 30" out, to about 80" out would be a very nice large window to work with.

Choosing I/C height off the ground is another can of worms since slick OD choices & housing bracket height/spread also play a part. Choose an I/C height that's too high for a given amount of power & you might no be able to calm down an overly violent initial hit, even with the rear shock extension valving set at full-tight. Choose an I/C height that's too low, in an effort to calm down an overly violent initial hit, and the decent bottom bar angle used to get that low I/C height might also have the "driving the rocker panels in the ground/over wadding the sidewalls" side effect. If you start with the bottom bars level with the ground, the I/C height off the ground will change the least as you move the I/C in-out with the top bar. And if your bottom bars have a decent amout of angle, the I/C height off the ground will move/change a lot more as you move the I/C in-out with the top bar.

Thanks Dave

I'll try to get a pic of the 4 link bars and how they are right now. Any help would be appreciated. I know I may have to sacrifice ride height in the rear to get the rear suspension sorted out and where it needs to be for a good starting point. I'd like to do that now rather than later.