Timing chain question...

What is considered "to much" play in it? I noticed the other night at the track that the truck developed a "poping" which is im pretty sure old plug's but when playing with the timing i noticed that you turned the Distributor a good bit before the engine seemed to change.

This morning i decided to go to TDC 0 on the balancer and then turn it Counter clockwise until the rotor button began to move, looks like it is about 9-9.5* of slack before it moved the rotor, is that to much? I did a couple searches and seen a couple different responses, so what is considered to much play in it? i pretty much saw anything from 8-12* as answer's to that question...

That sounds pretty loose to me, Might want to pull it apart and have a look.

Might be a good time to to some other prevenitive maintence too, compression test, check the valve springs and valvetrain parts and check-out the distributor and gear.

"Pops" are not normal

im planing on poping the valve covers off and have a looks see, but was wondering about the timing chain so i can get one ordered. engine is just a old 429 with D3 head's is just a straight up double roller timing chain good enough?

I would replace timing set but don't buy the cheap summit brand go with comp cam or another name brand the cheap one are not any better than the ome replacement one in my book.I had 2 summit double roller brands that did not last anytime.I agree with Dave that sounds alittle on the loose side to me to.

I was looking at a Coyles and a Comp cam's earlier, anything wrong with either of those?

I like my Cloyes true roller.

Old blue Racin Team wrote:I was looking at a Coyles and a Comp cam's earlier, anything wrong with either of those?

I have ran both with no problems I am running a billit set double roller 9 way ket set from comp cam on my new engine ran the comp cams true roller on the 460 and it is still as tight as it was when I installed it

Thank's, I decided to pop the valve cover's off and have a looks see to see if anything looked outta place, every thing on the 5-8 side looked good closed it back up, poped the other side and turned it over again and the 3rd rocker arm isnt moving I know it is #2 and it is the intake valve correct? , popped the rocker off it, and pulled the push rod it looked fine, slide it back it and felt it hit the lifter, i pushed down easy and felt the lifter collapse, while holding a little pressure on the push rod i had my brother crank the engine over and it moves up and down about as much as the others do. put everything back together and it wont open the valve, so i guess it is time to replace the lifter

Guess that explains why the engine has felt real lazy this year

When you pull the intake take a good look cam check the lob

I did, it looked just like the others did, lifter was worn at the bottom of it, it worried me when i saw it about what the cam looked like. But cam looked and felt fine, Had a extra set of lifter's the engine is back together just gotta few little things left to do.

Old blue Racin Team wrote:What is considered "to much" play in it? I noticed the other night at the track that the truck developed a "poping" which is im pretty sure old plug's but when playing with the timing i noticed that you turned the Distributor a good bit before the engine seemed to change.

This morning i decided to go to TDC 0 on the balancer and then turn it Counter clockwise until the rotor button began to move, looks like it is about 9-9.5* of slack before it moved the rotor, is that to much? I did a couple searches and seen a couple different responses, so what is considered to much play in it? i pretty much saw anything from 8-12* as answer's to that question...

That is not simply the play in the timing chain as the distributor gear play, (along with camshaft thrust), is in there to.

Yea i was gonna ask that to, i noticed that the distributor gear had some visible wear in it aswell.

Old blue Racin Team wrote:Yea i was gonna ask that to, i noticed that the distributor gear had some visible wear in it aswell.

yep,and if you run a hv or hp pump it'll waer faster.

yea it has a Melling HV oil pump on it

My 460 bracket car had a worn dist. gear on my msd dist. Paul Kanes web site high flow dynamics .Has an oiling modification that has prevented any further dist. gear wear on my engine .The engine has to be disassembled foor this mod. and the front cam bearing has to be out .So if you do a rebuild of this engine of yours look at his web site for good oiling system tips My humble opinion on timing chain gear sets .You will not go wrong with the ford motorsports sets .I beleive they are made by cloyes .I use them on my FE builds and my 460s .They are in +2-2 +8-8 that is what I like about them . Good luck with your engine and check out Mr.Kanes web site he offers a lot of good FREE info .Doug

Personally, I like the offerings from Ford Racing Performance Parts.

rmcomprandy wrote:Personally, I like the offerings from Ford Racing Performance Parts.

X2 I've used the numerous time and like them.

dfree383 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:Personally, I like the offerings from Ford Racing Performance Parts.

X2 I've used the numerous time and like them.

Thank's Ill give it a try.


And asfar as the Oiling Mod, that has been done on the new block, when this one comes apart, it will be replaced with the one being built.

There are two FRPP chain sets...

M-6268-B429 iron top gear for cast core cams.
M-6268-A460 steel top gear for steel roller cams.

dfree383 wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:Personally, I like the offerings from Ford Racing Performance Parts.

X2 I've used the numerous time and like them.

x3