1st drag radial test

I want to see what the SS gurus say but, I am sure it is not helping any. I have seen Byron boot guys after warning them to fix that situation for safety. Being as I am building a SS car maybe I can learn something about it too.

Could be caster and camber settings causing it. Caster specifically....

yellowhorse7 wrote:Could be caster and camber settings causing it. Caster specifically....

Camber is set at 0* at travel limit when the limiters are on. Caster is not all the way back. It is set at mid point of caster/camber plates. I was going to push them back but didn't want to change too many things at once.

Even though it looks crazy, I can't feel it in the car and goes straight.

If my memory is right he went in 10° and back 10° with the top of the strut to fix his. Maybe he will see this and correct me if I amwrong.

yellowhorse7 wrote:

richter69 wrote:backhalf it and put tank tracks on.........

Why

so it will work on shitty track prep days, which looks like all this track has.....and honestly unless your runnin a radial specific class I see no reason to run um.

my 2 cents and that aint worth much........

richter69 wrote:

yellowhorse7 wrote:

richter69 wrote:backhalf it and put tank tracks on.........

Why

so it will work on shitty track prep days, which looks like all this track has.....and  honestly unless your runnin a radial specific class I see no reason to run um.

my 2 cents and that aint worth much........

Ding Ding! Yep, one of them radial classes we don't have enough hp for anyway  . Just for fun.

ok then I can see it. Just spending all the effort and money just so you can say its on a radial makes no sence to me is all.

proceed......:-)

If its just a fun car put 29.5's on it and go play. Much easier to tune.

When the front end comes back down is the strut bump valving set loose enough that it might allow the front suspension to compress too far and hit any travel stops (or stack the strut or spring solid)? If so that could possibly unload the rear, and could also aggravate the front shimmy.

Did you ever figure out the 275 radials?
Im making the switch to radials and looking for info on what they like.

dirt_worker wrote:Did you ever figure out the 275 radials?
Im making the switch to radials and looking for info on what they like.

They like to be hit harder than anything you ran before. Hit me hard and keep adding power.

Yes hit it hard...also we normally run our air pressure in the 11-16 psi range we start at 14psi for base and work from there but very rare do we go over 16 with the M/T now the nittos are a lot different we just can't get them to work for us.

We run a 275/60 radial

gmsmkr wrote:Yes hit it hard...also we normally run our air pressure in the 11-16 psi range we start at 14psi for base and work from there but very rare do we go over 16 with the M/T now the nittos are a lot different we just can't get them to work for us.  

We run a 275/60 radial

We run 17-18. Any less and it drives the wheel into the concrete how we set them up.

Yes Dirt_worker, I have learned quite a bit about radials since this post. A lot of the information I learned from guys like yellow horse and what bumper was very helpful. #1 and most importantly, your best chance of success testing with radials is on a radial prepped track! Period. #2 the pro 275 is waaaay better than the old 3754r now discontinued tire. #3 yes they like higher psi (16psi is the spot for me) and yes they like shorter ic in the 38" range. Good double adjustable shocks like mencser motorsports helps dial them in. Once the chassis is figured out you can switch from a slick to the radial with minor adjustments on the shocks. But beware, put power to them and dead hook them, you will see the sky! Keep her settled and you will see some impressive 60' times as well. Top end stability is awesome. In short, they are faster, more stable, yet less consistent and more temperamental.

We are making a few changes that is slowing us down from getting track time so far this year but I guarantee we will get our 60' in the 1.0's this year on the 275 pro.

Oh and as stated above they like to be hit hard and keep bringing power on them or I've seen them work by hitting them softly and gently bringing in power. Mix either scenario and they go up in smoke.

Thanks guys. Ive got the MT 275 pros.
Im still on leafsprings w a caltrac (hard hitting) type setup so im hoping the radials play right into my favor.
I was running hoosier QTP's before and the truck just hit too hard for them to work.

What's different about track prep radial vs slick?

Radial is gonna have a lot more glue.

Good info here. Thanks.

on the 275 tire class could someone use the M/T ET Street tire (bias ply) that is the same size???

[quote="butterbean"]on the 275 tire class could someone use the M/T ET Street tire (bias ply) that is the same size???[/quote

To answer your question Roy.....yes they are legal.... here is my take on bias ply tires they work great on a stick car I mean really good and take a lot of the shock from the suspension but at the same time they like to really wobble on the big end I would also use a tube with them.

Now for the radial get it hot and hit it hard they like it and a lot better stability up top in the mph and work good with stick or auto it will just take a little more work with them and a stick car.

This is just my experience with them and what I have found running them on different combos.

butterbean wrote:on the 275 tire class could someone use the M/T ET Street tire (bias ply) that is the same size???

if the track is radial prepped the bias tires will not work very well. I'm sure people make them work but they are not ideal at all. My MT rep says those are being discontinued anyway.

Not meant as a post hijack seems relevant to the posts, which brand of drag radials are the hitters running, or not running and why? More interested in track performance, than street duty as the radials already have better street manners.I have been running the M/T's but on regular slicks I have had the best hook with the Hoosiers, there are size limitations out there if you are looking for specific sizes also.

M/T 275/60 here and on slicks it's M/T 28-10.5 we are fixing to put a set the MH tires on a customers car and see they work I have heard good things so far