d0ve heads on the way :D

Well my d0ve heads are on their way here, this is the first step on my way to building my first big block! Edit: Also wanted to ask about remote oil coolers and how effective they are at keeping a motor cool?

Why do you feel an oil cooler is needed? Is this a road race or endurance build?

I figured that the oil cooler would make the motor a little more resistant to detonation as well as allow it to live much longer than it would without it. I was also wondering how much valve lift can be utilized with the dive heads since ill most likelt have a custom ground cam.

This is what I had!

258/266@ .05" lift.
.622"/.657" lift gross with 1.73 ratio rockers
.647"/.683" lift gross with 1.80 rocker ratio.

Your gonna need to start to watch what your doing closely. What I'm telling you here is..
1. Is the block decked?
2. Have the heads been remachined for flatness a few times?
3. What head gaskets will you be using?

I installed this cam @ 105 and had to machine the Intake valve pockets of the Probe pistons .050

My block was zero deck.

Hope this helps in some way?

I know for certain that the block is unmolested, just been sitting in the back field of an old mans yard for 20+ years in the origional 72 Tbird that it came in. Its a 429 4v motor and I`d prefer to keep it in that neighborhood, unless I happen to get one hell of a screeming deal on a 460 crank and later model truck rods (correct me if Im wrong in thinking that those are better stockers). I want to use forged flat top pistons and have the machine shop cut them to clearance the valves (want to use the 2.25/1.80 valves on the heads with 1.73 roller rockers). The cam will most likely be the last part I buy but I absolutely want a mechanical roller, my faith in todays oils just isnt there for the flat tappets. Finally carb and intake will be a torker 2 with a quik fuel 850 on top. All thatll need vaccume will be brakes and dizzy advance. Sure wish I had everything here so I could start working on it but I have to keep reminding myself to take little steps. Final assembly will most likely get under way about this time next year, sadly.

You've got a good start there BUT...The late truck rods are no better than the ones you already have and, I'd STRONGLY suggest you rethink the valve sizes as you've violated "the 4 inch rule". When you put in a valve combination, in heads with stock pierce points, that exceeds 4 inches the valves WILL hit each other with most all aftermarket cams. AFAIK, the going price for a used 460 crank, unmolested or turned, is in the $25-35 range and will give you a MUCH better selection of pistons to choose from.

^^^ Chucks Spot On!

Since my car runs Cast Iron heads.. I want to ask you "What HP" are you looking for.

I would think a solid roller needs more spring pressure... I'm pretty sure I'm correct here. Need for better thicker push rods (weight) <- what goes up must come down. Then the discussion talks valve train harmonics.. so on and so forth..

Back to my Question:
"What HP" are you looking for.

What fuel are you going to use?

I dont have a set HP goal, I figure its better to pick the right parts, put everything together right the first time and once its all together Ive got what Ive got. As for fuel Im hoping for 91 octane, but if I must ill mix as much as 25% race gas, and lastly if the CR is too high ill convert to E85.

torkair wrote:I dont have a set HP goal, I figure its better to pick the right parts, put everything together right the first time and once its all together Ive got what Ive got. As for fuel Im hoping for 91 octane, but if I must ill mix as much as 25% race gas, and lastly if the CR is too high ill convert to E85.

The dove heads are going to give you some pretty stout compression unless you go with a dish piston. I doubt 91 octane is going to be real friendly...but I've been wrong before

torkair wrote:I dont have a set HP goal, I figure its better to pick the right parts, put everything together right the first time and once its all together Ive got what Ive got. As for fuel Im hoping for 91 octane, but if I must ill mix as much as 25% race gas, and lastly if the CR is too high ill convert to E85.

You need a HP Goal! All parts fit like a glove. Transmission, Gear ratio, Tire size .. Your going about this blindly.

Nevs comment above is correct and I know if your keeping with a smallish cam the 460 CI will be at least 12.6 to 1 ... I guess a lil less if you don't deck the block.

But then you'll run the risk of dednataiton if you don't. You need Quench!

I guess if I had a HP goal Id be reaching for the 600 mark, tranny will be a t56 6 speed and 3.50 gears. Im hoping to fight detonation with ceramic coated pistons and polished chambers (possible ceramic coating in the chambers too). I know 600 is a pretty tall order for going all motor but Ive found, with clevelands, that if you put them together with an ounce of forethought you get to the 450 mark pretty easily so I figure its pretty easy to get to the 500-550 mark with a bbf with good planning and attention to detail when assembling the motor.

Look through this thread, it will give you some proven ideas:
https://www.429-460.com/proven-builds-f4/big-block-ford-horsepower-chart-info-gathered-by-djohagin-t121.htm?sid=425bf8b64a4a5cc13ee6f6e31aa395f8

600 horsepower is doable with dove heads, just read it and go from there.

from what I read in that article I can probably realistically expect to hit between 525 and 575 hp. My main concern is in the rods, I noticed that once they passed the 400 hp mark they started using aftermarket rods, would this be totally necessary with my application or is that more of an RPM consideration? Once everything is all together Ill be taking the engine in for dyno tuning, my brother is pretty much a "carb ninja" so he will be the one building my carb and since I dont have one yet I might as well plan on using a 950 quik fuel or possibly a 1050 dommy.

Got the heads today and theyre a set of d0ve-C heads. Definate builder status here, now is it better to have them ported before or after having the machine shop clean them and install new guides? Also any thoughts as to having the shop change the angle at which the valves go into the heads or are they fine as is?