bowl area in head

Seen spots on heads that holes in bowl area on scja heads. Looks to be where they done the screw in studs. Has anyone else seen this on heads.

Not really understanding what you are asking.  Are you referring to the studs' hole protruding down into the port?  Or some blemish mark you're seeing in the bowl?

Please clarify. A pic would be good.

Yes it looks like stud hole broke threw into the bowl area when they drilled and tapped them from factory. Both heads has 2 different bowls that has spots that I can see what appears to be treads for the studs.

It's typical....the A460 heads are that way too.

Ok good to know.

They are DEFECTIVE,send them to me and I will dispose of them promptly.  

yep, they're junk. You can get .54 cents a pound for them if you scrap them, better than nothing    

Yes I agree they are defective. ...but this is my first bbf build so I guess I better see if I can make any power out of these defective blocks of aluminum.

be sure you put some kind of thread sealer on the studs or you'll be sorry.........   

what does most people use for thread sealer. Teflon tape or brush on pipe dope with teflon or ? ....is there any need to fill the holes in ?


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Dont fill the holes just use loctite on the threads for the studs. Before you do that you will need to modify the pushrod guides and get them set in the proper place for the rocker geometry to line up. Search SCJ guides?

red paste type lock tight looks like what the factory used on the threads.

Mike R wrote:yep, they're junk. You can get .54 cents a pound for them if you scrap them, better than nothing    

I'll up the ante and give you a $1/ pound for them and will even pay the shipping if you ship that junk to me!
Gary

That is a better offer.....lol....I read on several posts about guide plates. 1 that I seen where a guy asked about a scjb head guide plates. If I read it correctly it said that the guide plates that came with the heads were the correct guide plates.  Those were comments from Randy and lem  and charllie were in agreement with it........I could have read it wrong.....Would they still need to modified. ....i read about the cut in half and adjust and weld back together...

garys gt wrote:what does most people use for thread sealer. Teflon tape or brush on pipe dope with teflon or ? ....is there any need to fill the holes in ?

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If purchased as complete heads from FRPP, the studs are sealed & set with Locktite 271 as they come.

rmcomprandy wrote:

garys gt wrote:what does most people use for thread sealer. Teflon tape or brush on pipe dope with teflon or ? ....is there any need to fill the holes in ?

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If purchased as complete heads from FRPP, the studs are sealed & set with Locktite 271 as they come.

They were in sealed boxes from FRPP . Would the locktite 271 be the best thing to use back on them to seal the hole and keep stud tight ?

garys gt wrote:That is a better offer.....lol....I read on several posts about guide plates. 1 that I seen where a guy asked about a scjb head guide plates. If I read it correctly it said that the guide plates that came with the heads were the correct guide plates.  Those were comments from Randy and lem  and charllie were in agreement with it........I could have read it wrong.....Would they still need to modified. ....i read about the cut in half and adjust and weld back together...

                                                                                                                                                 On the cut in half guide plates, they where talking about using SCJ plates on converted DOVE type heads, that where not machined down the full .230" on the stud bosses, I believe.

garys gt wrote:red paste type lock tight looks like what the factory used on the threads.

more than likely red Permatex if you use red locktite it is you deal and if you ever have to take them back apart well just trash them, cuz you will strip almost every thread there is....If you use any Locktite use the Green it is a thread sealer, not a thread locker, Red is permanent, blue is not so bad but don't use red locktite thread locker on Aluminum at all...

the Coug wrote:

garys gt wrote:red paste type lock tight looks like what the factory used on the threads.

more than likely red Permatex if you use red locktite it is you deal and if you ever have to take them back apart well just trash them, cuz you will strip almost every thread there is....If you use any Locktite use the Green it is a thread sealer, not a thread locker, Red is permanent, blue is not so bad but don't use red locktite thread locker on Aluminum at all...

Those threads have insert heli-coils and Locktite 271 needs to be heated when the bolt or stud is removed.

I really don't agree with using red Locktite #271 but, that IS what FRPP uses.

supervel45 wrote:

garys gt wrote:That is a better offer.....lol....I read on several posts about guide plates. 1 that I seen where a guy asked about a scjb head guide plates. If I read it correctly it said that the guide plates that came with the heads were the correct guide plates.  Those were comments from Randy and lem  and charllie were in agreement with it........I could have read it wrong.....Would they still need to modified. ....i read about the cut in half and adjust and weld back together...

                                                                                                                                                  On the cut in half guide plates, they where talking about using SCJ plates on converted DOVE type heads, that where not machined down the full .230" on the stud bosses, I believe.

My SCJ-B's were purchased thru Lem in 2011 and the guides didnt line up the rockers where the tip of the rocker was offset from the valve a great distance. At that time I was only on the 460ford forum and I found that other people needed to alter the guides as well. One of the truck guys suggested to cut a slit into the guide 3/4 thru and bend it to adjust then remove and weld together. This method worked very well. My thoughts on this is that the guides on my heads probably lined up well with the original Kaase SCJ's where as I have heads made from supplier X after Kaase didnt get the business.

The studs that I removed from the FRPP SCJ heads had what certainly looked like red Loctite to me. There was no issue removing the studs w/o heat but, if a guy wanted to hedge his bet, the 'red' will let go at only 300*. The blue loctite should be plenty good for the application.