2000 Ranger frontend swap to a tube strut frontend

I am beginning the frontend swap I have been planning to do for the last 3 years I am using a Mazda RX 7 5 lug frontend . I will be using the struts with a coil over conversion kit the kit is the same as a mustang kit, the aluminum lower a-frames and mounts, the wheel hubs are aluminum also with 4 1/2'' bolt pattern,  the brake calipers are 4 pistons and are also aluminum. Should help lighting the truck up some plus I am trimming some more on the cab going to fix it so I can make the headers exit out the fenders behind the tires. I got the engine out tonight start cutting out the frontend tomorrow night after work.

Saw time!   

I marked the frame 50'' on each side to have a reference mark from center of the spinal forgot to get the overall measurement to the bumper bracket will do that tonight plus get the measurement from side to side off the face of the rotor to make sure I get the tires set right in the fenders. I will still have the side to side measurement as I am cutting the frame right in front of the mid plate mounts.

Old frontend is gone took about 1 1/2 hours to get it out got a little grinding to do but I think made enough noise tonight. Going in the morning to get the tubing so I can start mocking the frontend up.






Did cut the corner out of the right side to make room for the header to exit
right side

left side

Ain't no turning back now....I figure your using 2x3 rails?

Yes 2x3 it will be setup a little like what Doug did on the Yellow Banana

Sweet. Fiberglass or steel fenders?

70FB wrote:Sweet. Fiberglass or steel fenders?

The factory steel fenders they are light

I got the new front runners ordered and new longer wheel studs should have them Monday from what Summit said get them mounted Tuesday before work and start back on the truck Tuesday night after work. I have to work this weekend so no worky on the truck until Tuesday anyway.

What front runners did you order? Jegs have their own line now for skinnies. I just love mine.

M/T 25x4.5x15

Keep those pics coming. I'd like to do something like this next winter.

I will be taking pics as I go and posting

Went out tonight and did a little mock work and tack a bracket together to start  figuring out on how I wanted to mount the frontend. Got the tires mount today so now time to get the rest of the brackets built and welded up and start mounting things.

Looking good !   

Got the rest of my brackets cut out tonight started tacking 2 together when I herd sound like a shotgun go off talking about scaring the crap out of you. It was one of the old trailer tires I had put on the frontend when I rolled it out the shop it was only about 10 foot from my back when it blew.

  sounds like a youtube moment!

Don't forget that on top of mocking up the front tire/wheel/strut/lower control arm assembly at the desired race ready ride height & caster/camber angles, you also have to remove the strut spring & compress the strut shaft X amount to set how much full extension & full compression travel you want to have from the race ready ride height setting.

If the camber/caster can't be adjusted with the OEM lower control arm, then an adjustable CC spherical bearing top plate/mount assembly will have to be used. You will loose some engine clearance room with the adjustable CC plate/mount setup vs a simpler weld on spherical bearing top cup mount, (or a full chassis car type rubber-urithane washer/biscuit top mount).

But if the OEM RX7 strut/spindle assembly has the strut body's centerline offset from the lower balljoint's centerline, (like the Fox/SN95 stuff has) then some form of a spherical top mount was going to be needed anyway. The full chassis car washer/biscuit type top mounts should only be used if the strut body & lower balljoint are all on the same centerline.

Dave the only adjustment will be with the top of the strut I am working on making a adjustable plate fore the top. It has a 10* built in the spindle I am also leaning it back 10*. My buddy Rick aka 557mazda set his up like this and I am trying to set mine a close to his as I can, his works good on his car. I working on building my mount so it is adjustable incase I need to adjust it some, I should be able to get back on it in a few days. I got to move the holes up about a 1'' on the lower bracket to get the lower control arm  right when I get the engine back in.

If you happen to see anything else let me know easier doing right the 1st time instead of cutting and moving stuff.

I got a little more done at least it on all fours now still got to mount the rack and add 2 bars at the top strut mount.

That looks great

Thanks ,The flat bar is a chore to work with one thing the brackets will not be flexing. Not sure what kind of steel it is but it will not bend with out being cherry red. It is some my boss gave me a while back it will eat up some drill bits to trying to drill it. I went through 3 bits finally brought the brackets back to work and drilled them out with a $50 bit for stainless. We tried bending a peace that was 1 1\2x 3" without heat the 4 lb hammer would just bounce off without even thinking about bending it without heat.

Looking good and keep,the picks coming !

69F100 wrote:Thanks ,The flat bar is a chore to work with one thing the brackets will not be flexing. Not sure what kind of steel it is but it will not bend with out being cherry red. It is some my boss gave me a while back it will eat up some drill bits to trying to drill it. I went through 3 bits  finally brought the brackets back to work and drilled them out with a $50 bit for stainless. We tried bending a peace that was 1 1\2x 3" without heat the 4 lb hammer would just bounce off without even thinking about bending it without heat.

Sounds like some T-1 steel we use a lot of that also it is some good stuff...

Looking good Jim