Is this True??

I know that what you read on the internet must be taken with the appropriate grain(or shaker given some sites   ), but I read the other day a stock block 429-460 BBF is good for about 750-850 HP(over bores within reason).

This sound reasonable to you folks? What about the guys running N2O with Cheater Plates & or Foggers on stock blocks are they playing Russian Roulette with engines?

if the tune is good they will take more but too much timing and you get into detonation and the main caps start walking around
Frank

Very true! My 526 is unfilled .080 over 2 bolt d0ve block.

I've done 900+ on them, but was experiencing cap walk. Currently have a 800 hp 466 heading for my 1983 back half car, with a stock block and crank, tore it down and inspected everything after a few passes and a lengthy dyno thrash and no cap noticed..... But the rod bearings where not nice looking.

70' block 80 over with 4.150 stroke and made 932 hp, no problems been running this motor for 14 years now.

About 5 dune seasons and 1000 street miles on a 521". 700hp and used 150-200 plate alot on the sand. Some cap walk, but also had too much timing early on. This was a 2 bolt stud deal. Some say the stock bolts are even better, but i never tried. I got the timing more inline and it never seemed to progress damage wise. I also tried a tip Paul Kane mentioned somewhere about some ain't-seize under the cap to limit metal transfer.

Could some building a stock block stroker for N2O usage hedge their bets by installing aftermarket 4 Bolt Mains & limiting over bore to +.040?

For instance a 502(4.39 bore) would be serviceable longer than a 552(4.42 bore) with a 250-350 HP shot of N2O

I hope not, the 528" I'm starting on is going to be a 4.420 bore and plan on working up to a 300 kit.

Dark Horse of Apocalypse wrote:...I read the other day a stock block 429-460 BBF is good for about 750-850 HP (over bores within reason).

This sound reasonable to you folks? What about the guys running N2O with Cheater Plates & or Foggers on stock blocks are they playing Russian Roulette with engines?

That's all?  Ford production 2-bolt passenger car blocks have been proven to over a 1000 hp, actually in the 'teens (not that I recommend you try to push one that far).

Been flogging a D9 block for many hundreds of passes. Tuneup, tuneup, tuneup....

X2 d9 block here also.

Good info here fellas.

Dark Horse of Apocalypse wrote:Good info here fellas.

But 750 hp is a safe realistic number as long as it put together and tuned right.

One of the magazine articles quoted Kaase saying his 950hp 2 bolt main dyno mule has made hundreds or thousands (can't remember) of pulls with no problem.

Two things that I suspect.......

1] most of those pulls were nowhere near 950 hp

2] And, he damn sure was smart enough not to put the engine in detonation.

Somehow I don't think "smart enough" has ever been in doubt with Mr. Kaase.   

Use some good fasteners and that should be no problem.

Brenden wrote:Use some good fasteners and that should be no problem.

OEM fasteners are as good as any when using a stock production block. I have actually witnessed MORE carnage with aftermarket main studs or bolts.

fordguy69 wrote:One of the magazine articles quoted Kaase saying his 950hp 2 bolt main dyno mule has made hundreds or thousands (can't remember) of pulls with no problem.  

I was talking to him the other day about his mule.... He did laugh about the power it has made and how long it's been together.

Good to know unlike most of the Small Block a race block isn't the cost of entry.