Which automatic transmission and transfer case

I am going to be swapping out my inline 300 six cylinder and NP435 manual transmission for a 385 series and automatic transmission. I'm assuming I will go with a c6 but I'm not 100% the NP208F transfer case will bolt straight to it and if my existing cross member will work. Without going to a electronic transmission what transmission and transfer case would you use?

Also, who are some good transmission shops? The first ones that come to mind is Broader and Monster transmission's. They both offer a c6 for 1,300 - 1,400 dollars with out a converter. I told Monster Transmission I'd prefer to get my converter from someone else as I'm not comfortable with their experience with a BBF.

To be honest I'd love to go with a 4r100 but they quoted me over $4,000 for one with the shift controller and I'm sure I'd have to go with a different transfer case. I'd be money ahead staying with a c6 and then any transfer case I want.

FYI: I will be running 33" tall tires and no lift if possible.

Try to find an NP205 transfer case and never look back.

C6 and 1356BW is pretty hard to beat

The 1356BW? I don't know anything about the BW transfer cases. What is the difference between the NP208 and 1356BW?

The BW was a better case than the 208.

Are the Atlas transfer cases worth the expense?

What are you wanting to do with the truck? A 205 and the 1356 have quite a bit different low range ratios.

460bronco wrote:What are you wanting to do with the truck?  A 205 and the 1356 have quite a bit different low range ratios.

Yep and that will affect your axle gearing needs.

Agree with Schmitty. Go with the 1356. It will actually take more HP than a stock 205 and is lighter. 4 low is 1.96:1 for the 205 and 2.72:1 for the 1356.

Honestly I don't know. With the NP208 the only gears I use when it's in low is 3rd & 4th or 1st creeping around goofing off showing folks how it can idle up a hill.

Edit: I do use low & 1st to pull people tractors out of holes and stuff.

I'd like to participate in some street driven mud races. I know some places will have a class for trucks that drive in the gate.

Ok,,, what if,,,, I did a 10" mated Cyclone gearbox with 1x1? Does anyone see any problems with that? Besides the gear noise!

C6/1356 with 3.55 gears and you will be good to go and have good road manners and a killer low range combo for pulling or bogging.

jones wrote:Ok,,, what if,,,, I did a 10" mated Cyclone gearbox with 1x1? Does anyone see any problems with that? Besides the gear noise!

the cyclone box is a dedicated box,, meaning that there is only one range, no shifter at all. with a standard C6 your final drive at 1-1 would be like driving around in high range all the time, no matter what rear gear ratio, so depending on what your planning to use your rig for , you might want to choose a lower gear ratio

For budget sake, do you know if I can put the NP208F off the NP435 on the C6?

It should fit.

Looking at the Monster transmission stuff, the rebuilt BW1356 and Np208 are the same money. I was just wondering for a option for saving money.

Just go get a T/C out of a salvage yard.  They are cheap, and don't have much to wear out.

How much power can a BW1356 or the NP208 like I have can handle through it?

We have ran over 700 through the 208 case with 38" tires. Made it three seasons with no issues.

mudranger wrote:We have ran over 700 through the 208 case with 38" tires. Made it three seasons with no issues.

I think Schmitty has just a touch over that and runs the 1356.

kjett wrote:

mudranger wrote:We have ran over 700 through the 208 case with 38" tires. Made it three seasons with no issues.

I think Schmitty has just a touch over that and runs the 1356.

I hit the acceptable limit I believe with what I had last year.  I broke it 3 times.   A touch over 1000 and about 850tq.  I put a Profab in now with the new deal.

Personally I would either run a c-6 with a 205(my preference) or the same c-6 with the 1356. Depending on exactly where your HP/TQ end up you can adjust differential gearing from there. I do not like the 208 cases and have seen way to many break under high HP/TQ trucks so I wont run them behind a big block!

I talked to Jay Broader today. He suggested the 1,000hp, wide ratio, manual valve body with Transbrake. He suggest the Transbrake because the converter is going to be tight and it will help for when I do want to play. I told him I will know more about the converter needs after the engine is on the dyno.