welding balance weights

I'm going to contact the shop and see what they can do for me. If they say nothing, then I'll do some name dropping.

Give them the link- https://www.429-460.com/t21430p15-welding-balance-weights

Rmk Boss9 wrote:

kim wrote:Looks like a decent weld.  So aside from the fact that its a little back yard.   Through 6500 shouldn't be an issue.  Once the pans on no-one knows if you have Mona Lisa or velvet elvis under the cover.

The weld on the other side is a better looking, flatter with more penetration from what I can see.
I'm going to go ahead an run it.
The balance was a flat rate cost, plus the price of the Mallory. I would have gladly paid an extra $100 and have it done right instead of this f#uck up.

"RIGHT" is a matter of opinion.  There is nothing mechanically wrong with how that is done except that  it doesn't look pretty.
Just as I replied to you on the other site.

EDIT:  Next time be sure to mention that you need it to look pretty, also. Then it can all get filled-in with weld and it can be ground pretty ... at the further expense of "time and material".

rmcomprandy wrote:

Rmk Boss9 wrote:

kim wrote:Looks like a decent weld.  So aside from the fact that its a little back yard.   Through 6500 shouldn't be an issue.  Once the pans on no-one knows if you have Mona Lisa or velvet elvis under the cover.

The weld on the other side is a better looking, flatter with more penetration from what I can see.
I'm going to go ahead an run it.
The balance was a flat rate cost, plus the price of the Mallory. I would have gladly paid an extra $100 and have it done right instead of this f#uck up.

"RIGHT" is a matter of opinion.  There is nothing mechanically wrong with how that is done except that  it doesn't look pretty.

With this response I retact my previous comment, as he Definately knows more about the functionality of that picture than I Do

Get what you ask for...and pay for.

rmcomprandy wrote:

Rmk Boss9 wrote:

kim wrote:Looks like a decent weld.  So aside from the fact that its a little back yard.   Through 6500 shouldn't be an issue.  Once the pans on no-one knows if you have Mona Lisa or velvet elvis under the cover.

The weld on the other side is a better looking, flatter with more penetration from what I can see.
I'm going to go ahead an run it.
The balance was a flat rate cost, plus the price of the Mallory. I would have gladly paid an extra $100 and have it done right instead of this f#uck up.

"RIGHT" is a matter of opinion.  There is nothing mechanically wrong with how that is done except that  it doesn't look pretty.
Just as I replied to you on the other site.

EDIT:  Next time be sure to mention that you need it to look pretty, also. Then it can all get filled-in with weld and it can be ground pretty ... at the further expense of "time and material".

It's definitely a time saver! Maybe they should all be does this way. I wanted it done like the other 99% of the shops do, that's all.

rmcomprandy wrote:

Rmk Boss9 wrote:

kim wrote:Looks like a decent weld.  So aside from the fact that its a little back yard.   Through 6500 shouldn't be an issue.  Once the pans on no-one knows if you have Mona Lisa or velvet elvis under the cover.

The weld on the other side is a better looking, flatter with more penetration from what I can see.
I'm going to go ahead an run it.
The balance was a flat rate cost, plus the price of the Mallory. I would have gladly paid an extra $100 and have it done right instead of this f#uck up.

"RIGHT" is a matter of opinion.  There is nothing mechanically wrong with how that is done except that  it doesn't look pretty.
Just as I replied to you on the other site.

EDIT:  Next time be sure to mention that you need it to look pretty, also. Then it can all get filled-in with weld and it can be ground pretty ... at the further expense of "time and material".

x2 on what Randy said. I'm no pro, but I do spend massive amounts of time in my engine builders shop and do some of the balance jobs that come through (got to pay my machine shop bills homehow!). Sometimes the crank needs weight added where there really isnt an area to add weight. There are tricks where you remove or add in other areas to try to get the balance to move to add/remove weight back where there is material. Looking that this is on the very edge of a throw, this may have been the case. Since this was a "flat rate" job, if this was a small shop, time is money so they did the job to make it mechanically correct and not have an excessive amount of time wasted to make it "pretty".

I also agree with Randy,ive seen some cranks and other parts back in the day that would scare you to death,but they did the job.

bbf-falcon wrote:I also agree with Randy,ive seen some cranks and other parts back in the day that would scare you to death,but they did the job.

Years ago, we would get a piece of mallory and drill a 7/16 hole through the middle. Then drill and tap the side of the crankshaft counterweight and bolt the weight in place.
Realistically, that was more unsightly but, those all worked just fine. It takes a bunch of deteriorating circumstances to break an alloy rod bolt and the weight attached to those is a whole lot more.

rmk57 wrote:I've never seen a crank balanced like this before and would some expert opinions on using this up to 6500 rpm.  It's a 4.15 cast Scat crank.

If it's correctly balanced and that's where the weight was needed then it's perfectly fine for your appplication and a complete non-issue.


Which parts (piston/rod) were used for the rest of the rotating assembly, and exactly how old is the crankshaft?

And to add, it's a cast crank. You probably won't be reselling it if used for racing purposes.

Paul Kane wrote:

rmk57 wrote:I've never seen a crank balanced like this before and would some expert opinions on using this up to 6500 rpm.  It's a 4.15 cast Scat crank.

If it's correctly balanced and that's where the weight was needed then it's perfectly fine for your appplication and a complete non-issue.


Which parts (piston/rod) were used for the rest of the rotating assembly, and exactly how old is the crankshaft?

The crank was brand new.
Scat I-beam rods and SRP -28cc pistons.

I'm probably going to go ahead and use it as is. It just isn't what you expect to see when you unpack your new crankshaft.

The other weld which looks prettier than the other one and a copy of the balance card.

cranks get welded on all the time. One of the ways to repair a journal... weld, and turn back down. Original offset stuff,, add weld and move center.. Back in the stone age of this sport, China didn't cast one of every stroke out there. People remanufactured what was available.

We would weld in the Mallory slugs in the throughs..

To be fair i have seen a lot uglier work

Some major Swiss cheese drilling and I do recall a mopar crank once with nuts welded to it in a number of places......

I would not put that in any engine with my name on it.. "if" it comes off, it will do major damage to a lot of stuff, I won't even let a balance shop end press weight (radially).. also, that is mig welded, tungsten to cast with er70.... nope.