My Drag Week summed up in one pic.

Well maybe a few pics. lol Head came off a valve at about midnight in BFE Kansas. Banged up #2 and the small chunk flew over and banged up #8.







What does it normally run (ball park) to get an aluminum head repaired? These are TFS Streets. I think the chamber will smooth back out just fine, but will probably need a seat and definitely needs a guide.

Parked the car at a convenience store and finished the week with a buddy and had a fantastic time. Came back on Friday and hauled it back to Tulsa.

XXXX2222

X3

I can remember having that happen on a 315c 4v I had in my 69 F100 but your looks better than what mine looked like if that helps any. Mine took the cylinder out, cam journal and lifter bores but the head was repairable but the block was junk so I know a little how you fill.

That's 3 pics....


Man, sorry to see that. Good reason to go fancy now though!!!!

I definitely could have been worse.  I got the engine shut off pretty quick after the initial bang bang bang.  Car was running fine, 180 degrees, 50lbs of oil pressure at 3000 rpm, then bang!

#8 cylinder wall took a hit. About 3/4" down and prob 0.030" deep. That hole will need a sleeve. Pistons all TDC the same, so I don't think anything in the bottom end is hurt.  

I'm going to pull it out, check everything over, sleeve that hole, buy a couple of pistons, fix the head, toss some new bearings and rings in it check P2V clearance about 10 times and go back to having fun with it.

I'll fess up. This was caused because I changed cams, and neglected to double check P2V clearance.  Dumb move, I know.  When I built this engine originally, it had a crap ton of clearance everywhere, but the additional lift and duration apparently ate that up.  It was not interfering enough to notice when turning the engine over, but it was enough to eventually pop the head off a valve.  All 8 intake valves will be replaced for sure.

I was surprised at the location of the interference in the valve notch.  Not where I was expecting to see it hit.

That stinks, repair on that one don't look too costly..

when you get the head fixed, post the cost of the repair of the head

Who ya gonna get to fix it?

Weld damage. Digitize an adjacent chamber. New guide seat and mill chamber Ill guess about 800 for head fix.

Probably a local shop. PPE

http://panhandleperformanceengines.com/index.html

I've never used them, but they have a very very good reputation around here. I've been so busy though, I have not had an opportunity to clean and disassemble the heads.

kim wrote:Weld damage.  Digitize an adjacent chamber.  New guide seat and mill chamber Ill guess about 800 for head fix.  

I can buy a new bare head for that much.

Yes.  But if there is porting in these heads...  the cost of all valves etc.  Might come out cheaper as it didn't puncture through to water.  If they don't digitize but just hand/eyeball the reshape on the combustion chamber also less expensive.

Aint racing fun...

kim wrote:Yes.  But if there is porting in these heads...  the cost of all valves etc.  Might come out cheaper as it didn't puncture through to water.  If they don't digitize but just hand/eyeball the reshape on the combustion chamber also less expensive.

Aint racing fun...

And so inexpensive.....

I'm kinda thinking about changing the whole combo up since it's almost winter and I have some other non-BBF engine options (small blocks) available. These may go on the shelf to be repaired and used on my pickup at a later day.

Maybe. Haven't decided just yet.

Bummer. Know the feeling.

Wow sorry about that damage.