dana 44

Ok guys I am building a new truck would like to use the 44 and 9 inch that's under it now. My truck now has dana 60's and cromo shafts. What I am wondering is how are you getting the 44 to hold up and what's the weak link? Will be running 40 inch cuts. Thanks for input.

I doubt that the D44 will handle 40" cuts no matter what you do.  Good axle shafts and a spool are good starting points.

Good axles and U-joints, you could look at aluminum hubs/smallest rotors you can use, less rotating weight. Along with using wide five rims.

Also, check out the link shown, you can use the Girdle, load bolt kit, and install dana 50 gears for added strength.
http://www.jantz4x4.com/jantz.php?p=products

I recall a few years back some friends were getting their axle shafts cryogenic tempered for strength, they held up flawlessly for 40's but 44's not so much.

schmitty wrote:I doubt that the D44 will handle 40" cuts no matter what you do.  Good axle shafts and a spool are good starting points.

Hey Rob that green narrowed thing from NM is running 42" cuts but he keeps the front lite.

I have to run factory style suspension I thought of converting my 60 over to coil springs have looked up the kits to do this but also have heard can't be done to ball joint 60 anyone have experience with this? Really don't like the idea of breaking stuff every weekend. Plus the 60 is already built locker 4.88 wide 5 hubs.

Didn't fords come with leaf sprung fronts? Just change the badges to F350.

dfree383 wrote:Didn't fords come with leaf sprung fronts? Just change the badges to F350.

Thats what I did when I put a 460 i my 86 E150 to get to pass inspection with no cats. on it.  

557ranger wrote:I have to run factory style suspension I thought of converting my 60 over to coil springs have looked up the kits to do this but also have heard can't be done to ball joint 60 anyone have experience with this? Really don't like the idea of breaking stuff every weekend. Plus the 60 is already built locker 4.88 wide 5 hubs.

use a 2005 or newer d60 frontend. They're coil spring and under all the f-250's.

557ranger wrote:Ok guys I am building a new truck would like to use the 44 and 9 inch that's under it now. My truck now has dana 60's and cromo shafts. What I am wondering is how are you getting the 44 to hold up and what's the weak link? Will be running 40 inch cuts. Thanks for input.

Im running a 44 up front of mine, not because I want to but because the elussive narrow pad width 78, D60 hasnt come my way, I did break both front stock axles to start the season, but the chromoly axels I replaced them with have held up fine,.Use the best u-j you can get.. and Iam hanging  between 700-850,,,,But, with that said, it would still be better to build a 60

What about the axles from RCV performance? They change the axle from a u-joint to a CV joint and supposedly they are beyond super tuff!

Rcv shafts are tuff but what would be weak point lockouts or ring and pinion? The dana 50 ring gear upgrade I am looking into. I can find king pin 60's around here for $500 up.

557ranger wrote:Rcv shafts are tuff but what would be weak point lockouts or ring and pinion? The dana 50 ring gear upgrade I am looking into. I can find king pin 60's around here for $500 up.

If you can get a 60 for that price and are only looking at strength, you would probably be money ahead by building the 60. Depending on how the 44 and 60 are built, the 44 could be between 100 to 200 pounds lighter that the 60. But the light weight may not be as strong and will cost more money.

Also I already have a good built 60 but was really looking to keep this truck lighter but don't want to fix it after every weekend.

My suggestion to you would be to do a cost comparison. Building the 44 to the strength of a 60 vs the cost to fit the 60 into the truck. The 44 will probably be more expensive, if that is the case you could use the 60 and use the cost difference to make changes to the truck:
1) increase horsepower to compensate for the additional weight.
2) Use lighter parts on the truck, i.e. fiberglass hood, fenders, etc. to make the truck weigh the same as if using the 44.
3) A combination of the two listed options.

Do you have to re-gear the dana 44?  

At a minimum, you could replace the axle joints to some good units and change gears if need be.  Could also buy some wide 5 adapter plates so you could continue running your current wheel package.  There is a good chance that it will hold together for a while, but will probably break an old stock style axle shaft at some point.  You could then just replace the broken axle half shaft when it comes.  Just depends if you want to take the minimum route, or go all out?  

---Another important question is: How heavy is the rig going to be and what power level?  Also, how will you have the suspension set to work (keep the front tires very light?)  

I've seen some very powerful trucks run even a dana 30 up front, but the trucks are gutted and they sure don't have 40"cut boggers on the front.

Check out this video and see if you think you will be putting more force to the axle shafts than this truck!

Most likely will never put as much stress on parts as jamie and randy do. But think I will make the 60 work cheaper (already have built) and stronger. Thanks for the suggestions