Hoosier radial slicks 18216c06

Anyone ever tried these , ?

not the 10" but the 9.0x30x15R hoosier tire worked really good and even picked my car's et by .10 and mph by 1.5 and made the top even real stable

I tried the m/t 315 60 street radial and didn't like them , I'm hoping these Hoosier radials work better

What didnt you like about the 315 M/Ts?

dirt_worker wrote:What didnt you like about the 315 M/Ts?

Interested in hearing the answer myself. My car is built around a M/T 315 radial.

1.18 60 foot with a slick , bolted on the 315s went up in smoke , adusted on shockes , moved launch timing around , still didnt work , my brother bought double adjustable rear shocks , and some bs that bolted on top of the rear end to Change the instant Center , he also changed back to bias slicks . He also bought a pair of pro radials , there on his street car now , radials on a marginal don't work , but I'm going to give the hoosier slick a try because they have a softer side wall , 315 m/t has a real stiff side wall
I have heard the 315 hoosier works better than the m/t on marginal tracks

10SHOTS wrote:1.18 60 foot with a slick , bolted on the 315s went up in smoke , adusted on shockes , moved launch timing around , still didnt work , my brother bought double adjustable rear shocks , and some bs that bolted on top of the rear end to Change the instant Center , he also changed back to bias slicks . He also bought a pair of pro radials , there on his street car now , radials on a marginal don't work , but I'm going to give the hoosier slick a try because they have a softer side wall , 315 m/t has a real stiff side wall
I have heard the 315 hoosier works better than the m/t on marginal tracks

I'll tell Brad Edwards this when I see him

I needed a stiff sidewall DOT tire so I just got a new pair of The M/t 275 Pros for my truck. Tony, could you please share some of the main diffrences in typical chassis setup when using a reg slick vs. the drag radial?

Double post

dirt_worker wrote:I needed a stiff sidewall DOT tire so I just got a new pair of The M/t 275 Pros for my truck. Tony, could you please share some of the main diffrences in typical chassis setup when using a reg slick vs. the drag radial?

Sure.....
Main difference IC and AS values. But also, a radial typically needs wheel speed and to be hit hard and kept "up on the tire" throughout the first 330 feet. Do a search in this section and you will find a few threads that I posted in, as well as Dilligas and Bumper, that explain some of the in's and outs. A good DA shock inhe back is almost a must when it comes to getting a radial tire to work, no matter the track condition.

Conventional slicks might be "easier" to use, but that's because this slick construction method has been around forever & it's chassis thinking is pretty much been ironed out over many, many years. Comparatively speaking the radial drag tire is "brand new" with much less time spent on the chassis tech.

I think a radial deal working good or not all depends on how much time/money/effort someone is willing to invest in it. Also if the radial combo will make use of timing/traction electronics help, or if it will be old-school (with no associated electronics) can also play a part too.

It is understandable that the "radial thinking" (hit the siht out of the tire at the initial hit with shorter IC, or looser rear extension shock valving, or both, + tighter compression valving) on a big power car can sound kinda ass-backwards to the average "conventional slick" guy trying to convert to radials. Conventional thinking says doing it this way could over-work the tire & possibly cause (a conventional slick) to either bounce/rebound on the sidewalls back up into the car, or shake the crap out of them. Conventional vs radial construction & materials used is just so different.

And as far as the timing/traction electronics vs going 100% "old-school" no electronics goes, there have been mechanical traction control alternatives to to the electronics in the past. One example is borrowed from funny car tech. Some of the older Pro Mod clutch cars had a hand brake in the car & the driver would give it a little tug during the launch if the starting line was a little suspect. Using the hand brake during the launch was a way to kill just enough power reaching the rear tires if necessary, kinda like the ignition/traction boxes do today.

Another possible mechanical method (don't know for sure though) I suspect some have experimented with is using a bracket racing style air launch cylinder on the throttle linkage with the valving set to open slower/smoother than normal to act as an adjustable poor-man's traction/dead-hook control.

yellowhorse7 wrote:

10SHOTS wrote:1.18 60 foot with a slick , bolted on the 315s went up in smoke , adusted on shockes , moved launch timing around , still didnt work , my brother bought double adjustable rear shocks , and some bs that bolted on top of the rear end to Change the instant Center , he also changed back to bias slicks . He also bought a pair of pro radials , there on his street car now , radials on a marginal don't work , but I'm going to give the hoosier slick a try because they have a softer side wall , 315 m/t has a real stiff side wall
I have heard the 315 hoosier works better than the m/t on marginal tracks

I'll tell Brad Edwards this when I see him

The key word here is"marginal". The radial tire works on a very good. ..pull your shoes off kinda track. I think the Friday night tnt guys get lost with this mysterious"setup" because they never have been on such a track.

Hoosiers came on FedEx today