Help With Some Cage Bars

69F100 November 23rd 2009, 8:37 pm

Thinking of adding some more bars just wondering what some of yall think I know about the lower rocker bars going to add them tomorrow this is my first cage build so don't burn me to bad.On the rocker bar can I weld it to the tubing or does it have to be connected to the cage itself.

Here is the rear bar not weld yet go to wait tell I get the cab back on with way would you run the bar strieght like on the 2nd or angled like the 1st
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Here is one I am thinking about adding don't know if it had to be there or not but was thinking about adding it but it will run over to the chassis not on the tubing
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Here is one from the side and front
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85montess November 24th 2009, 11:00 am

The lower door bars can be welded to the 2x3 "outriggers" that you have welded to your frame. Since, you turned the front one edgewise, I would make the diagonal brace (picture 3) longer and tie it back into the top of the main frame to give more strength in case of a rollover.

On the bars in the rear for the top of the shocks, I prefer to have the top of the shocks tied back into the main hoop with an "X" bar and then would angle the uprights that you have back towards the rear and I would make them be an "X" brace so that you can tie the two rear cage supports together. Since the stock frames can flex so much, you should add a piece of tubing or 2x3 between the frame rails near the shocks. If you are sticking with the stock locations for the upper shock mounts, I would split the difference between the shocks to mount the cross-brace and I would tie the "X" bracing near this brace if not onto it.

Northwest outlaw November 24th 2009, 11:17 am

Are still going to run a 4 link right i wouldnt get to tied up in the rear bars to you get the 4 link set up that will also have XF on where the bars need to be to. Jason

69F100 November 24th 2009, 12:45 pm

85montess wrote:The lower door bars can be welded to the 2x3 "outriggers" that you have welded to your frame. Since, you turned the front one edgewise, I would make the diagonal brace (picture 3) longer and tie it back into the top of the main frame to give more strength in case of a rollover.

On the bars in the rear for the top of the shocks, I prefer to have the top of the shocks tied back into the main hoop with an "X" bar and then would angle the uprights that you have back towards the rear and I would make them be an "X" brace so that you can tie the two rear cage supports together. Since the stock frames can flex so much, you should add a piece of tubing or 2x3 between the frame rails near the shocks. If you are sticking with the stock locations for the upper shock mounts, I would split the difference between the shocks to mount the cross-brace and I would tie the "X" bracing near this brace if not onto it.

thanks the tubing I set up was a piece i had laying around yes i am going to tie it to the main frame and I was hoping I could tie the lower bar to the outrigger
Thanks for the help Jim

69F100 November 24th 2009, 12:58 pm

Northwest outlaw wrote:Are still going to run a 4 link right i wouldnt get to tied up in the rear bars to you get the 4 link set up that will also have XF on where the bars need to be to. Jason

Yes on the 4 link just got to wait tell tax time, I am going to be adding some more tuding in the rear more than likely take the factory crossmembers out and add 2x3 and where the 4link goes 2x4 or 2x6, But not addding until I get the 4 link so I don't have to move anything should have made that clear in the 1st post just trying to get everything pictured in my head sorry and I may go tube on the rear not sure yet the more I look at it the more I want to go tube rearif you know what I mean.
Thank Jim

69F100 November 24th 2009, 1:00 pm

69F100 wrote:
Northwest outlaw wrote:Are still going to run a 4 link right i wouldnt get to tied up in the rear bars to you get the 4 link set up that will also have XF on where the bars need to be to. Jason

Yes on the 4 link just got to wait tell tax time, I am going to be adding some more tuding in the rear more than likely take the factory crossmembers out and add 2x3 and where the 4link goes 2x4 or 2x6, But not addding until I get the 4 link so I don't have to move anything should have made that clear in the 1st post just trying to get everything pictured in my head sorry and I may go tube on the rear not sure yet the more I look at it the more I want to go tube rear if you know what I mean.
Thank Jim

69F100 November 24th 2009, 6:54 pm

Heres is some pics how I done them

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69F100 November 24th 2009, 7:05 pm

On this pic if you will look at the crossmemder where the front of the spring bracket is riveted on the frame,the frame is also riveted together there so if I go tubed rear I think I can cut the rivets out and take the rear section off.

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DILLIGASDAVE November 24th 2009, 8:46 pm

Mounting the windshield bar's floor diagonal the way Bill suggested was the way to go. Looks much better this way and will carry a much larger amount of up/down/side loading. Mounting the rocker bars to the 2x3 is perfectly acceptable. You might think about capping the open end of the rear 2x3 like you did the fronts, makes for a stronger structure. And I agree that you really can't "set in stone" where the rear 2 (or 4) main hoop diagonal bars are going to mount to the frame until you know where all the rear suspension components are going to be mounted. This is because the rear bar placement really depends on how you decide to "think" about a race car's structure, and what is & isn't important to that structure.

If you go with the thinking that the "important" part of the rear chassis structure stops at the rear most stressed suspension component (let's say either the top coil over mounts, or a backward facing anti-roll's mounts) then the full sized cage rear bars really only have to extend to that general area, and no further back. So you would run two straight bars back to the shock mounts, and 2 more bars that form an X would land a little closer to the cab (say just ahead of the housing C/L).

But if you like the thinking where the "important" part of the chassis extends all the way to the bumper. Then you run 2 straight bars all the way to the end of the chassis, and another 2 forming an X would land at the shock mounts.

If your not putting in a full tubular back half section, there really is no reason to think about a more involved modern rear cage layout where the bars curve back over the top of the tubs. The stock rear frame should do just fine with a simpler 4 bar (2 straight, & 2 for the X) layout.

69F100 November 24th 2009, 9:38 pm

the tubing at the back will be caped by the plate I have welded to the cab the end of the tubes is what the cab will be welded to the front I cut the wrong side of the line so i had to cap them to make long enough to reach the cab. The cab has 14 gage 4''x6'' plate welded to it to connect the cab to the tubes.I have to order another bar for the X brace. I got a extra bar when I ordered the cage but I used the ones for the X brace in the door X it should have been just one bar going down not the X but I like the X better hope I never need all the bars but you never know.Like what happen to Chuck better to have them than not if something like that happens. I will post again when I get ready to do the rearend when i get the rear put together at tax time.

Thanks for everyones help Jim

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