429 Engine build help? 75 Supercab f250 short bed.

I'm building a fairly stock 1970 ish 429.  I have my block at the machinist to get it cleaned and checked for cracks, and to see if the crankshaft main bore needs hones and to see if the top of the block needs shaved.  

So I think the machinist will  check the crankshaft bore with a straight edge to determine if it needs honed. I do have a 429 stroke.

I also think that he will check the deck with a straight edge.  If not warped I 'm not planning to deck it since I'm not racing the truck.

And check for cracks in the block with a mag test.

If all is well I plan to have it bored .030 - get new hypertectic pistons, have the crank turned.

Here is my question. I want a good running engine for my 1975 Ford Super Cab short bed weekend driver. And I have a ZR 5 speed to replace the old C6. Can't wait to get the revs down with the overdrive.  It has a 370 gear.

I understand the importance of proper quench and want to get the right pistons, rods, down in hole distance, etc.  So - who do I consult with for all of this?  The machinist or the piston maker (like Diamond or JE?)
 
PISTON: I am assuming I want a piston that is flush with the deck or up to .005 out of the hole.  So I am thinking that I will have this discussion with the piston maker.  
COMPRESSION: I am aiming for no more than 9:5 TO 1 for todays gas. I think I will be using DV3E A2A Heads which I already have and are about 92 ccs with 2.25 Intakes and 1.76 exhaust.
RODS: With the cost of reconditioning the old rods I am considering Eagle H beam Rods.  If I get these will they need to be checked / touched up?
         or should I just use the old ones?

75truck wrote:I'm building a fairly stock 1970 ish 429.  I have my block at the machinist to get it cleaned and checked for cracks, and to see if the crankshaft main bore needs hones and to see if the top of the block needs shaved.  

So I think the machinist will  check the crankshaft bore with a straight edge to determine if it needs honed. I do have a 429 stroke.

I also think that he will check the deck with a straight edge.  If not warped I 'm not planning to deck it since I'm not racing the truck.

And check for cracks in the block with a mag test.

If all is well I plan to have it bored .030 - get new hypertectic pistons, have the crank turned.

Here is my question. I want a good running engine for my 1975 Ford Super Cab short bed weekend driver. And I have a ZR 5 speed to replace the old C6. Can't wait to get the revs down with the overdrive.  It has a 370 gear.

I understand the importance of proper quench and want to get the right pistons, rods, down in hole distance, etc.  So - who do I consult with for all of this?  The machinist or the piston maker (like Diamond or JE?)
 
PISTON: I am assuming I want a piston that is flush with the deck or up to .005 out of the hole.  So I am thinking that I will have this discussion with the piston maker.  
COMPRESSION: I am aiming for no more than 9:5 TO 1 for todays gas. I think I will be using DV3E A2A Heads which I already have and are about 92 ccs with 2.25 Intakes and 1.76 exhaust.
RODS: With the cost of reconditioning the old rods I am considering Eagle H beam Rods.  If I get these will they need to be checked / touched up?
         or should I just use the old ones?

                                                                                                                                        The deck height will depend on the year of the block. They went form 10.3" to 10.322" depending on year. C8,9 and DOve were the 10.3" I believe before they raised it. As for as the rods I would base that the Rpm you are planning, the weight of the pistons, the type of rods you have now, and how much it will cost to recondition them. It would probably be cheaper to deck the block to where you want it then to buy custom pistons, and it is sometimes best to mock it up due to dimension differences. Sorry about being so vague, but a little more info would be helpful.

Ps: I missed the hyper pistons part. They are pretty light, and if you are not going to spin the engine very high, say 6K I would lean towards the stock rods.

Stock rods - what is a ball park price in reconditioning the old stock rods? And what is done to them?  I'll guess - shaving the cap and resizing the big end, straightining the rod, new small end bushing - what else.  And yes, I will not be at 6,000 much. I suspect never.

Bob
Tucson

How does one mockup the rod, piston, compression heigth to figure the amount out of or into the hole that the piston will end up with?
I assume that it is determined by the deck height. So is it stroke + compression height? I noticed that in a post above shaving the block instead of buying custom pistons might be the way to go.

Thanx for all your replys and teaching in advance.

Bob
Tucson

COMPRESSION Height...
Stroke ÷ 2+rod length -the deck height


To get Stack height...
1/2 the stroke + rod length + piston compression height


Hope this helps, mike

Thanx Mike I'll give this a go and see if this makes sense to me.
Thank you for your reply!

Bob
Tucson

If your buying Pistons anyway get a 460 crank of even a economy stroker kit.

The extra inches will really help to move your big truck

http://wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php Here is a simple compression calculator, there are more in depth ones. Use positive numbers for piston dishes and valve reliefs and pistons above the deck. Flat tops usually work out to the low/mid 9/1 range with D3's. Defree has a point, if you do intend to stroke it now is the time since you are boring it and buying pistons. You can get a 2Y 460 crank and drop it right in since they are internal balance just like the 429. It is the early pre 1979 one, later models are 3Y and external balance. On the rods they are press fit and do not have pin bushings. Don't know how much they cost to recondition, but I have seen reconditioned CJ/SCJ rods selling for around $225.00 ready to go.

http://dscmotorsport.com/asp/Products/popup_PartDetails.asp?PartID=475 These are the ones I came across.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/keith-black-kb-pistons/make/ford/engine-size/7-0l-429/compression-distance-in/1-900-in?N=400386%2B4294951343%2B4294951324%2B4294790080&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending More reasons to go 460. I guess there are some cheaper ones. I am not a fan of hypers, but some guys like them.

So am I getting the impression that if I use a 460 crank instead of the 429 crank I'll have more options on piston choice.

Bob
Tucson

Yes you will and gain more ci

75truck wrote:So am I getting the impression that if I use a 460 crank instead of the 429 crank I'll have more options on piston choice.

Bob
Tucson

Yes you will, and the longer stroke will add a tad of compression but not enough to be concerned with.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/keith-black-kb-pistons/department/engines-components/make/ford/engine-size/7-5l-460 See for yourself. You have to be careful when looking at 429 pistons also, there are a lot of them for 429 heavy truck engines with 4 rings that you can't use. I just picked Keith Black as you mentioned hypers but, there are many other brands to choose from.

And notice the price difference. You just bought a 460 crank, with change left over likely.