Viktor air gap intake

What about a dry sump pan

Can anyone tell me ruffly how much to take off heads dove-c to get 70cc's ?

Found a crack in the block... Just in the water jacket patchable he said... Just a set back no big deel

Don't let him arc weld it. Cast iron can NOT be electric welded, it must be brazed.

EDITED:

Bart Knox wrote:... I'm getting a rear sump pan and wondering if I just change the pick up or need a different pump... The reason I need to know is I can sell the pump to a guy thats having a 460 built for a Lincoln

Just change the pick-up to one for a rear sump.

Iv been looking at pans and the shalowest pan in the centre i could find was the Ford racing M-6675-A460 and was told that i had to use the M84D pump with it. As far as the block he wants to drill and pin each end of the crack and fill it with Im not sure what. He said the heat from brazzing could crack it farther. Brazzing was my first thot but he said hes fixed much bigger cracks and not to worry.

Personally I would not use a cracked - and hopefully fixed block.
There are plenty of 460 blocks around. Why take the chance on this cracked block?
Will he guarantee success - and cover the cost entirely if the crack fix fails?
Source another block that checks out.

The crack is about 4 inches in totale and is going to take my old heads for payment of fixing the crack. I do no ware there is a 80s block from a cube van but wasnt sure if my crank would fit been internaly balanced. I can look for a nother pre 79 block but everything got scraped around here when the price was high

I found anuther block. 77 was borred out 30 over 10 years ago and never totaly ressembled. Going to look at it today and if it checks out ill grab it.

I picked up this block for free. 40 over never totaly ressembled crank is seized and would need bored again. How far can you go befor needing to sleeve cylinders.

Block is D1VE-6015-A2B

The cracked block is a D1VE?
Or the new one you found?

I would sonic check any block going 0.060" or more

There both d1ve blocks. If you do have to sleeve do you do all cylinders or just the one that get bored throu to the cast?

Does the new block need a sleeve?

Most 429-460 blocks can easily take a .060 overbore barring any unusual core shift. A sonic check is a good safety measure. Many blocks have been taken out to .080 and a few rare blocks have been taken out to 4.500 bores without sleeves. No overheating issues from just the .060 overbore, maybe other issues caused it. Have you mic'ed the bores? maybe you can just hone the cylinders for new pistons.

The guy doing the motor just looked at it and said it would bored again. Also the pistons that i was told to get only come in 30 and 60 over I think. That as far as I got. He looked in the back of the truck at it and brot it home.

So i ended up having the original block fixed he said it will be fine we'll see. I picked up a set of brand new headers off a guy in town for $150. Said they were for a 91 f250 that he never did anything with. I was wondering if theres any differents in 2 weel drive and 4 weel drive headers? He also said i can take the motor for $100. I was hoping i could use the oil pan and pickup tube he said the oil pan was good condishon and repainted

Is a stud kit for the heads a good idea for what im doing or a wast of money

I think it's a waste. If you are going to stay N/A I don't see the point for what you are doing.

The guy thats building my motor wanted to but I thot $500 was a lot for studs I probably dont need. Is $500 what they cost?

You oboviously have internet check around and see. Sounds a little steep to me.

Bart, $500 for head studs is a rip off. You come here asking questions and get answers from some of the most knowledgeable guys around, then you take your engine to some local doof and listen to him. You need to listen to what these guys tell you and tell your machinist/assembler what you want done, not let him do what he wants to do with your money. If he doesn't want to do what you want you need to find another guy who will do what you want. No one here is going to steer you wrong, listen to what they say, there's probably more combined knowledge here than anywhere else on the planet

Bart I don't know what the Canadian dollar trade ratio is, and I was also trying to be nice with my response, hint.

Thanks guys... I dont doubt your knowledge. When I started this thread alot of stuff didnt make cents to me but after doing everything twice and wasting money I no better... $500 Canadian = $350 U.S plus shipping and buddy probably marked up the price. The motors almost done now. Buddy argued the decking and everything els that you guys told me to do... The next motor I do I'll do some more research and find someome that knows what hes doing. Thanks guys...

Im getting the motor back right soon and im looking for a cheaper aftermarket clutch kit... The transmission is a t18 with a 90s aluminum bellhousing and rebalanced flywheel. Anyone have any suggestions???