Motor plate install basics... tutorial video maybe???

I have a 72 Gran Torino sport that I'm building a 557 stroker for (took the idea from the engine power show episode called "460 to the max"). I would like to put a motor plate in it as I haven't found solid mounts for it anywhere. Is there a video tutorial anyone knows of on basics of installing one? maybe articles that would come in handy you know of? I've googled, and searched, and can't find much useful stuff that actually explains anything. Also, if you know of solid mounts just for S's and G's could you let me know, cause I can't find any of those either. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. It may help to mention that I have a bit of fabrication and machining background... so I'm not afraid of cutting, welding, or whatever is needed to do the job correctly.

You didn't mention what rear suspension (OEM or aftermarket) or the car's intended use (street/highway use vs strip only with no street use). Anyway below are 2 methods I use with an aftermarket rear suspension (like ladder bar or 4-link).



Method #1 if it's a strip only car (no street/highway use) with an aftermarket ladder bar or 4-link setup....

Set the car up at "mock-up race ready ride height" to simulate the car's suspension fully compressed to the full race ready weight ride height it will sit off the ground.

Point the trans tail shaft C/L directly at the rear housing pinion C/L, and the pinion C/L directly at the trans tailshaft C/L. This will give you a temporary 0.00* U-joint operating angle/driveline operating angle (aka "pinion angle & slip yoke angle") through both front & back U-joints during mock-up.

Next make both the front motor plate (1/4" aluminum) & mid plate (1/4" aluminum or .090" steel) keeping all the above mock-up C/L's aligned.

Then make the chassis mount/crossmember for the OEM rubber or aftermarket urethane trans tailshaft mount if an OEM factory auto trans case is used.

Then make 2 frame-to-block fore/aft travel limiters (one each side). If a beefy aftermarket SFI legal trans case is used some people use a solid trans tail shaft mount (vs rubber/urethane) to also do the job of the fore/aft limiters (I don't like solid tailshaft mounts but some people do).

With this method after all the fab work is done & the full weight car is back on the ground sitting at ride height readjust the rear U-joint operating angle (pinion angle C/L to driveshaft C/L angle) from the mock-up 0.00* angle to somewhere around the -1.00* to -2.00* range. With a big tired car & aftermarket 4-link it can usually be set anywhere from -0.75* to -1.50*, and a big tired car & ladder bar anywhere from -1.00- to -2.00*.  

********************


Method #2 if it's a car that will see street/highway use with an aftermarket ladder bar or 4-link setup....

Set the car up at "mock-up race ready ride height" to simulate the car's suspension fully compressed to the full race ready weight ride height it will sit off the ground.

Initially point the trans tail shaft C/L directly at the rear housing pinion C/L, and the pinion C/L directly at the trans tailshaft C/L. This will give you a temporary 0.00* U-joint operating angle/driveline operating angle (aka "pinion angle & slip yoke angle") through both front & back U-joints during mock-up. Then from this 0.00* + 0.00* starting point raise/rotate the tailshaft C/L up a small amount, and lower/rotate the pinion C/L down a small amount, both an equal amount of degrees. This is what's called an "equal-but-opposing" street/highway friendly driveline angle profile. When using the equal-but-opposing profile the pinion angle and the slip yoke angle are always the same number of degrees, just flipped. So as an example you could have a +1.50* U-joint operating angle at the slip yoke C/L -to- driveshaft C/L, combined with a -1.50* U-joint operating angle at the pinion C/L -to- driveshaft C/L. Or +1.00* slip yoke & -1.00* pinion, or +2.00* & -2.00*, or etc, etc, etc.

On the street U-joints need some given amount of misalignment/operating angle to get the roller pins moving & help it self lubricate. At least a half a degree (0.50*) operating angle is needed to self lube, but 1.00* is better. But I wouldn't go over a 3.50* U-joint operating angle with a ladder bar or a 4-link on the street, the greater the angle the greater the U-joint internal friction & binding will be. Some leafspring rear setups can often have 3.50* (or more) U-joint operating angles at the pinion but that doesn't apply here.
 
Next make both the front motor plate (1/4" aluminum) & mid plate (1/4" aluminum or .090" steel) keeping all the above mock-up C/L's "equal-but opposing".

Then make the chassis mount/crossmember for the OEM rubber or aftermarket urethane trans tailshaft mount if an OEM factory auto trans case is used. Then make 2 frame-to-block fore/aft travel limiters (one each side). If a beefy aftermarket SFI legal trans case is used some people use a solid trans tail shaft mount (vs rubber/urethane) to also do the job of the fore/aft limiters (I don't like solid tailshaft mounts but some people do).

With this method after all the fab work is done & the full weight car is back on the ground sitting at ride height recheck/readjust the front & rear U-joint operating angles (pinion-to-driveshaft + driveshaft-to-slip yoke) to make sure they are still "equal-but-opposing".

well... suddenly I feel a need for further education. Thanks for taking the time to spell all that out. I do plan on using the car as a drag car, with limited street use for car shows and what not. I was planning on ladder bar set up for the rear as I don't currently have the funds for a 4 link. I'm a bit overwhelmed currently having read that, I've never done a set up for a drag car before, and some of the terminology is still new to me but I'm learning quick. Team Z is actually local to me so I'm hoping to get some more info from them as I planned on buying the plates from them, maybe I'll just have them do the work if its reasonably priced (which means I'll probably end up attempting this myself). I was planning on running a power glide trans, aluminum driveshaft, it already has a 9 inch rear with 4:30 gears and a detroit locker but it needs to be gone through to make sure it will take the power the car makes. Once again I appreciate the response, i'm gonna have to look some stuff up and really get a good feel for this before I start. I also am still waiting on the block from the machine shop, so I have a bit of time to familiarize myself with what I'm doing hopefully. Thanks again.

Awesome write-up Dave!!

Thanks!

Bill