1968 Mustang 200ci 3 speed manual TO 460BB

If you go with the cam I mentioned the Performer will work fine but, I would skip the Edelbrock carb. and go with a Holley #3310 750 vacuum secondary or a #4779 750 Holley double pumper. The 3310 should come with a Ford A/T kickdown lever I believe.

Alright Supervel, the heads are refurbished from oreillys with new stainless valves. Do you think they will come with the right rockers or not? Thanks man.

1968Mustang wrote:Alright Supervel, the heads are refurbished from oreillys with new stainless valves. Do you think they will come with the right rockers or not? Thanks man.

Do they even come with rockers? If they do I think they will be correct, as the latter rockers won't go on the studs because the holes are to small.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Ford-429-460-1968-72-Rail-Rocker-Arm-and-Fulcrum-set-16-Sealed-Power-R863-/201119508696 Here is a picture.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/cart/?a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2B1968%2BLINCOLN%2BCONTINENTAL%2B7.5L%2B460cid%2BV8 Pricey little bastards. Might want to check the core yards ect. for some used ones.

What about the 1969 timing chain set? I saw there's also aftermarket sets that are supposed to make the cam/crank timing straight up. Yeah they may not come with rockers. So the ones on the heads now won't work? The heads on it now aren't original the heads model number are E5TE-TA do you have and idea if the rockers on those will work? I think they are either 85 or 95 heads. Thanks

Comp Cams 926-16 springs 747-16 Retainers 611-16 Valve Keepers would be highly recommended also with the Comp Cam. It just keeps going and going with these builds, might as well get some hardened pushrods while you're at it #7651-16. is the Comp Magnum pushrod listed for 1969 to 71 and is 8.680" and 3/8" diameter. Comp lists three High energy push rods for 1972-78 that are 5/16" and come in std. 8.550" short 8.490" and long 8.616", so be careful there if you go for new pushrods.

IMO if the engine is running leave it alone and use it as is.

Your budget is going to be better spent on the actual swap, transmission and rear end at this point in time.

In other words get it functioning and have some fun until you can afford to build the motor up.

1968Mustang wrote:What about the 1969 timing chain set? I saw there's also aftermarket sets that are supposed to make the cam/crank timing straight up. Yeah they may not come with rockers. So the ones on the heads now won't work? The heads on it now aren't original the heads model number are E5TE-TA do you have and idea if the rockers on those will work? I think they are either 85 or 95 heads. Thanks

You can use the 1971 and earlier timing set but it is likely easier and cheaper to get the late model fuel injected truck chain at the parts store and they have the key in the old position also, ie non retarded. No your late model rockers won't work. The E5 indicates 1980's production.

dfree383 wrote:IMO if the engine is running leave it alone and use it as is.

Your budget is going to be better spent on the actual swap, transmission and rear end at this point in time.

In other words get it functioning and have some fun until you can afford to build the motor up.

Defree's right, or budget more money up front to the engine, torque converter, transmission overhaul, and shift kit up front. I would save the rear end upgrades for last.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-3501 Here is a cheap way out. Throw this in with a new set of lifters and straight up timing set with your E5 heads Performer intake 750 carb.and call it a day.

dfree383 wrote:IMO if the engine is running leave it alone and use it as is.

Your budget is going to be better spent on the actual swap, transmission and rear end at this point in time.

In other words get it functioning and have some fun until you can afford to build the motor up.

Nah, I have all the time I want for this build. I want to at least do some upgrades while rebuilding it. it had low compression when the yard got it they said. I already have the engine apart. so its too late for that. this isn't my first rebuild ever d. Super I was looking at that cam earlier, what do you think of the classic sum 3500 cam. I guess the 3501 is propably better because it says its made for higher rpm's. Thanks for researching super I appreciate it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k3500/overview/make/ford This one? I like the 3501 better as it has more duration at .050". I don't really like either one because of the low valve lift and wide lobe seperation numbers. That first Comp cam I linked is very nice but, cost twice as much and I was just trying to help you cut costs with the Summit cam. A lot of guys like to run the Summit cams with stock valve springs which would also save you some money. If you go with the Comp I would change out the springs, retainers and keepers for the higher lift. If you do end up with the C9 heads and a used pair of rail rockers inspect them closely for cracks also.

The link to rock auto brings me to their homepage. The summit classics do seem reasonable. Which first one ?

supervel45 wrote:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-34-244-4                                                                                                                                          Here is the cam part number.      

This one. The thing that is kind of unique about this cam is it has about the max amount of lift without cutting the valve guides, and has a decent .050" split duration. Most other split duration cams about the same at .050" have a .560 to .580 lift or a much lower lift. It is kind of a unique cam in a way and you will not find any other shelf grinds like it.

supervel45 wrote:http://www.autozone.com/1/products/307491-camshaft-comp-cams-34-244-4.html                                                                                               Same cam but shows .050"  duration, it is 222/226 and .535" lift, not 226/230 .530' as in my previous post.                      

Same cam but shows the .050" numbers. I should have used this link, sorry.

Alright man sounds good, but you don't think if I deck the heads for a little more compression the valves will hit with that longer lift?

Rock Auto wants $16.00 each for the rail rockers.

Yeah, I found rockers with rollers for $14/pc.! But I may stick with the heads its got now to save some money lol what do you think?

1968Mustang wrote:Alright man sounds good, but you don't think if I deck the heads for a little more compression the valves will hit with that longer lift?

You should definetly check them but, You should be fine if you don't cut to much. Maybe Randy will chime in in the morning and give you a more definite answer.

Who's randy?lol thanks man. I bet your tired wherever you live its propably late?

I was going to recommend that also. I don't know anything about E5 heads but assuming they are like D3's I would deck the block to .00-.005 in the hole. That should get you around 8.5/1 compression, I don't know how much you would have to take off the heads to get to 9.5/1 and you might have to cut the intake also. You are getting into the ball park of where a set of flat top pistons may be better. There is no cheap easy way out on these engines at this mid range level. You also don't get that much bang for the buck either in my opinion.

Yeah, I'm thinking thinner gasket and heads decked slightly.

1968Mustang wrote:Who's randy?lol thanks man. I bet your tired wherever you live its propably late?

RMCompetition. He is a engine builder and member here. His 414W was one of the winners at last years Engine Masters Competition. You are kind of in a bad spot if you don't want to sink a lot of money into the build like Defree said earlier. I would not worry about a point of compression now. If you want to go for it put a set of forged flattops deck the block, get a set of reworked big valve Dove heads, mechanical cam, roller rockers and put a Holley Dominator and make 550-600HP.

1968Mustang wrote:Yeah, I'm thinking thinner gasket and heads decked slightly.

Most people just deck the block to help with quench. You would need some pretty thin gaskets if the pistons are .030" in the hole and you are shooting for .045'" quench.