Anything I'm missing?

521 roush/Yates all stock from them with nos wet kit with 10lb bottle.
Put in jets 059 for both sides. Have timing set to retard 4 degrees when button depressed. Fuel is off of same pump that feeds 1050 dominator carb. I'm running 32 degrees of timing but may bump it to 34. Wide open switch is wired together as I'm pretty sure I can lift my finger off the button.
Anything else I'm missing or anything wrong with this?

Also should I set start up retard of timing to anything or 0? It started somewhat hard last year when waiting in line but I did run 38 degrees of timing and it ran well but people said that was too much so I backed off to 32.

Any help or advice I'm open.

Thanks

I would put a timing light on it and verify the electronics are actually retarding the timing like they should. You can block the fuel or pull the ground off the solenoid and leave the bottle closed or un-hooked. Sounds good so for except for the pussy pills.

PS: Make sure the WOT switch will kill the power to the solenoids when you lift, I usually wired them in series with the button but did away with them and went straight button for more control.

Okay I will check to make sure it retards but I did just take out wot switch and wire together.
And I'm starting small but hope to end with the 086s I have.

Bring you some spare U-Joints to the track, might need then if the C4 does not take a dump first.

59 f and n? Or is this a crosshair plate?

Ya 59 for both. I couldn't find a good chart ; one would say stagger them and most show same so I went same.

What plug gap? Running motor craft SP-406 AGS032C.

.030 could be a good starting place. High HP (600 plus) guys are usually in the area of .025-.028

Bigger the jet the smaller the gap. I like as big as a gap that I can run w/o miss-firing a cylinder. More gap = more fire = more power. But remeber that cylinder pressure is high and it'll want to blow out the flame if it's too big....

Put an NGK plug in it until you get the jetting figured out. The strap is very forgiving and much cheaper than pistons. Once the tuneup is right, put the equivalent Autolite plug in it as it will make more power. Although many will argue that point

I've been running .054 gap and they foul easily but she rips that way n/a.
She's got 621 hp at crank before nos with 10-1.
Which ngk do you recommend?
Appreciate the help

6jeff6 wrote:I've been running .054 gap and they foul easily but she rips that way n/a.
She's got 621 hp at crank before nos with 10-1.
Which ngk do you recommend?
Appreciate the help

NGK FR5 (7373 I think) which is the same as an Autolite 3924. That gap is biggggggg for N20

Was a little advantage we did bogging back in the day. And I was the grunt that had to turn timing back so it would start then advance so she'd rip. I really can't believe I can hear today lol.

Thanks I'll gap the motor craft at .030 then try to get a set of those.

You from polk cty wi? I'm a logger and I'll be starting a sale over in balsam lake (polk).

6jeff6 wrote:Was a little advantage we did bogging back in the day. And I was the grunt that had to turn timing back so it would start then advance so she'd rip. I really can't believe I can hear today lol.

Thanks I'll gap the motor craft at .030 then try to get a set of those.

You from polk cty wi? I'm a logger and I'll be starting a sale over in balsam lake (polk).

LOL. No. I am from Chicago but have been in Polk County FL for the last 4 years

Aren't those Motorcraft plugs platinum? If so get rid of them.....they hold wayyy to much heat

Just a tick off lol
Ya platinum. Crap k I'll call napa.
Thanks

Slight change 059 nitrous 071 fuel per someone I trust. Gap .044 motor craft plug but I have to stay small on spray is all (under 150) but with this set up I wasn't going over that.
No test hits yet raining and tomorrow 3" of snow

6jeff6 wrote:Slight change 059 nitrous 071 fuel per someone I trust. Gap .044 motor craft plug but I have to stay small on spray is all (under 150) but with this set up I wasn't going over that.
No test hits yet raining and tomorrow 3" of snow

With that small a hit nothing else really matters lol. I spray my Husqvarna with more...

Lol sorry but 9s is fast for me than its either go big or settle, so much safety stuff to get but I doubt I'll settle

Is there a real nos wet kit chart for jets anywhere? I can't find one and everytime I think I do someone says do it dofferent. Just really want to know what hp it's spraying in and I'm matched correctly.

What is the exact plate?

Only paperwork I have is a NOS wet nitrous kit. Fuel comes in the back of the carb and nos to the front. It is a 1050 dom carb. I can't find any numbers on anything .

A picture is worth a thousand words.

He likely has a Cheater or big shot plate. The .59 NOS jet should put him in the 165HP or a tad less range with the BigShot and 140 with the Cheater plate. I have run those small jets in my big block with stock plug gap and ignition and cast pistons with no problems. Jeff Pull the plate, if you have 64 hole spray bars it is the BigShot plate, the Cheater plate has about half that many. Make sure the JB Weld that holds the inner bushings in ( used on the old style plates, if that is what you have) is in good shape. I lost an engine when the NOS side bushing slid down the tubes and blew the air cleaner off and bent a valve durning the extreme backfire. Let me know if you want me to dig through my parts stash for some jets.

I don't have much experience with that small of jetting in a plate but it sounds like these guys can help you out a bunch. One of the nitrous motors we're taking to Tulsa this weekend just stepped down from 64's in the fogger to a 125 single pill in one of our plates to run the Limited 275 class.

Thanks guys I'll dig more tomorrow. Appreciate it and I changed to 071 because I'm stupid lol

Motor can handle 250 shot is what you guys figured out with make of rings and gap last year.