Head Bolt and water jacket sealant ?

What are the thoughts on this product ? LOCTITE 1158514

Also would you use it in conjunction with new ARP head bolts, clean block bolt thread holes, and MLS head gasket. Thanks Whitey

whitefield wrote:What are the thoughts on this product ? LOCTITE 1158514...would you use it in conjunction with new ARP head bolts, clean block bolt thread holes, and MLS head gasket. Thanks Whitey

The 385 Series head bolts are supposed to be installed and the torque applied with 30-weight engine oil on their threads.

Arp says to use there lube with there bolts. I could not make up my mine when it came time for installing ARP head bolt oil or there lube so I called ARP told them Ford recommends Oil and of course they said use there lube so I did and I did and even tho I torqued to spec I'm thinking bolts are tighter that if I had used oil who knows al I know it no leaks and I'm happy

Big block ford head bolts are blind, they don't go into the water jacket.

And if you ever change to studs and nuts the studs are to be only finger snug in the block with 30w oil.

Also lube the bottom of the head on the bolt and washer if using them.

I stopped buying the high dollar Arp head and main bolts years ago, and have been using grade 8 or better socket head cap screws.

They work very nice for head studs when a rocker shaft system is in place as it allows plenty of room for the stands, and on some set ups, the bolt can be removed with out removing rocker arms.

I use hardened ground flat washers also from the fastener company.

Update ! I called ARP, Cometic , and emailed Loctite about it . the response was ARP wasn't familiar with it and had not been lab tested. The tech at ARP said he didn't recommend using it and use at my own discretion. Cometic said use it Loctite said use it as it was a lubricant as well as a sealer. Loctite said use it as well.
Then I researched some more and decided to use it . It all turned out well ! The bolts were new and clean the bolt holes were all cleaned as well applied as directed and I have to say you could spin the bolts by hand and torqued very smooth in 3 steps . Also light oil was applied to the washer and bolt head.

Thanks to all that responded. Whitey

What is your reasoning for using a sealer type lube for head bolts that don't have water jacket going Thur them just asking. I used Arp bolt sealer for intake bolts that go into the water jacket oh and timing chain cover bolts as well is it just because you have it ?

Super Snake Steve wrote:What is your reasoning for using a sealer type lube for head bolts that don't have water jacket going Thur them just asking. I used Arp bolt sealer for intake bolts that go into the water jacket oh and timing chain cover bolts as well is it just because you have it ?

I have a good connection with Loctite and I had it on hand

It is just some of the benefits of the trade !

On an IDT Premier block are all of the large 10 bolt/studs blind? I ask as when pulled the heads off for a refresh after finding one tuliped valve about three of them had some surface rusty gunk. I had used the ARP thread sealer on the coarse thread portion that is in the block out of habit, and yes because its there. (are Ford A4660 blocks the same?)

The stud does not appear to rotate when I'm torquing them (i'll look more carefully this time) so I don't think it affects the actual clamping force vs. indicated torque spec. As an amateur who assembles the long block part of engine maybe once or twice a year, I rely on what the reputable (IMHO) manufacturers and sellers (Lem for example) recommend.

As I'm building and using my own street car engines (Drag Week, True Street, and some driving, auto-X, what ever comes up) I tend to error on the higher side of torque specs and so far so good. What shuld I be looking at or changing? And, why?

CDMBill wrote:On an IDT Premier block are all of the large 10 bolt/studs blind? I ask as when pulled the heads off for a refresh after finding one tuliped valve about three of them had some surface rusty gunk. I had used the ARP thread sealer on the coarse thread portion that is in the block out of habit, and yes because its there. (are Ford A4660 blocks the same?)

The stud does not appear to rotate when I'm torquing them (i'll look more carefully this time) so I don't think it affects the actual clamping force vs. indicated torque spec. As an amateur who assembles the long block part of engine maybe once or twice a year, I rely on what the reputable (IMHO) manufacturers  and sellers (Lem for example) recommend.

As I'm building and using my own street car engines (Drag Week, True Street, and some driving, auto-X, what ever comes up) I tend to error on the higher side of torque specs and so far so good. What shuld I be looking at or changing? And, why?

They are designed to be blind. I have not seen it with the A460 block but, there could be a small hole in the floor of the hole that would let coolant get to the bolt/stud.