'71 429 cobra jet engine - piston identification?

I had the oil pan off today to take a quick look at the short block running gear. I noticed the pistons appeared to be aluminum and I could see the following stamped into the underside of the pistons:

TRW
98
230

Can anyone identify these in any way shape of form.

Much thanks.

Are you positive the 230 is not an .030?

The .030 would be on the TOP of the piston, not on the bottom.

So, took the heads off tonight... Don't think they have been off for at least 25 years. Pistons are TRW L2386 040... Why would this engine be bored out to 040, was there not smaller Pistons available back in the day? Cylinders look good from a quick visual inspection. No ridge at top and can still see some of the cross hatching. Although, this engine was rebuilt many years ago. The rockers showed some wear, will definitely have to be replaced. Lifters were in good shape, bottoms showed no excessive wear at all. As the cams on these engines are difficult to locate, would it be reasonable to try and salvage the one in this Motor? From what I can see so far, there does not appear to be excessive wear. If the cylinders are good throughout, is it reasonable to reuse the forged aluminum pistons, hone the cylinders new rings, oil pump, etc? Heads are in really nice shape, no apparent damage to valves, but would send them in to be done. I guess the issue of compression ratio is still an issue. Does anyone have concrete experiences with using these Pistons in a stock 429cj and run pump gas? Will have to turn the engine over and take a look at the crank, bearings etc. Thoughts appreciated. Thanks

I believe you said this is a numbers matching car, IMO with a .040 block and a decent running assembly I would just yank the motor and shelf it should I ever decide to sell it, as it will still be a running numbers matching car, I do tend to ride my cars relatively hard but I can do that more comfortably and possibly cheaper if I just build what I want to run and shelf the irreplaceable parts.

FalconEh wrote:I believe you said this is a numbers matching car, IMO with a .040 block and a decent running assembly I would just yank the motor and shelf it should I ever decide to sell it, as it will still be a running numbers matching car, I do tend to ride my cars relatively hard but I can do that more comfortably and possibly cheaper if I just build what I want to run and shelf the irreplaceable parts.

^^^^^^A lot to be said for this if you are going to Hot Rod it, especially as rare as they are. Hope you put the lifter's in numbered bags with Tape laminated numbers or a case for them that is marked which holes they came out of. Ford made good cams and if it is not worn I would definetly save it and the lifters or reuse it. I would use the pistons to after cleaning the land groves with a groove scrapper also after a good inspection. I did not check the Compression by the number but, if they are flat tops I would not try pump fuel by itself with that cam if it is a CJ original, myself.

jeffgfg wrote:The .030 would be on the TOP of the piston, not on the bottom.

True, seen a lot of oddball stuff on some of this Old Muscle though, especially the Late 60's early 70's Holley's like metering plate type screws on flat 50cc REO pump Covers off of 950 3 Barrels and 850 CS's so who knows sometimes. Just Asking.

Do the rocker fulcrums have oil grooves, they made them
both ways, smooth and grooved. I would try and get some grooved ones if not they are about a C note most of the time though are more. Hunting a set myself.

Yes, all of this has me thinking what to do in the long run... I have properly removed all of the valve train components, tagged, numbered etc. It makes sense to put this numbers matching engine aside, at least the short block. I could locate another already finished short block, have these heads done and reinstall all of the original top end so that when finished, no one would know the difference at a show. I could still call it #'s matching if I have the original short block at home (with an asterisk...). The more I think about it, the more this makes sense to keep the car's rarity and value intact. The car will be basically a weekend warrior, show car. I have a ton of $$ invested in the body and paint, so it will never be regularly driven. What should I look for in a 429/460 that I can put my original top end on and run pump gas? I would be looking for an already completed short block to make things quick and easy... Thanks for the input.

*** I've added some updated engine shots in my photobucket.

https://s1045.photobucket.com/

supervel45 wrote:Do the rocker fulcrums have oil grooves, they made them
both ways, smooth and grooved. I would try and get some grooved ones if not they are about a C note most of the time though are more. Hunting a set myself.

Yes they have the oil grooves, some of them... Appears some have worn over the years. You can see a shot in my photo bucket. Thanks

You need to put the link to your picture not the site.

dfree383 wrote:You need to put the link to your picture not the site.

Yes... live and learn. Hope this works.

https://s1045.photobucket.com/user/Pastalblue/media/image_zpsfplpdepf.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=10

It linked. My Computer did not like it though, so I did not get a good view of all the pictures. I could not tell if it was a roller chain. Either way if the gears are good they sell both Chains and there are a few different ones, but you can get just the chain by itself. Saves a few bucks but, not much. For all you know they punched it .040" because they had a set of .040" over pistons laying around or got a good deal on them. It's done now and does not matter anyway. Stick it on the shelf and build a 466 or whatever ShortBlock and you won't have to worry about it and can enjoy it more, would be a good plan it seems. I suspect those rockers have quite a few cruise nights left in them too.