Cam Break In

Have a 429 and am installing a solid Bullet Cam with a .560 lift.

Springs are 130 / 330 single spring with a dampner.

Going into a weekend driver f250.

Do i need to change springs to a lighter spring for breakin?

Or can I just use these?

Bob
Tucson

Flat tappet? IMO that's a little high for spring pressure on a FT cam for break in. I like to see <100# on the seat for the first half hour or so of running.

For single springs where there is no inner to be removed, with an aggressive flank solid lifter cam, I use a +.050" set of locks for break-in and just change the locks afterward or sometimes use a different retainer with longer installed height and just change those; or both.

With a softer ramp camshaft you should be OK ... that is about the spring pressure that many High Performance solid lifter O.E.M. engines had.

There are .5 locks?

So do I use the roap in the cylinder to change the locks back to the runing ones?

I don't see a problem with that spring pressure. Besides it's a Bullet , not a CC. Far fewer problems with them.

Using the lifters with the EDM hole would be advisable too.

None of the guys around here, that use proper process, haven't lost a sft cam in over a decade.....most all were comp cams.

I.m.o. many flat tappet break in failures are related to not being fired up quickly. Projects with ignition and or fuel issues are starter cranked on excessively and most all of the cam lube is wiped away.

Lem Evans wrote:Using the lifters with the EDM hole would be advisable too.

None of the guys around here, that use proper process, haven't lost a sft cam in over a decade.....most all were comp cams.

I.m.o. many flat tappet break in failures are related to not being fired up quickly. Projects with ignition and or fuel issues are starter cranked on excessively and most all of the cam lube is wiped away.

This is critical! Grinding and grinding on the starter motor...you're grinding and grinding on the cam, especially with heavy springs. Engine needs to start at the absolute first hit and go to 1500 and stay there! It doesn't hurt to throw an extra quart of oil in the pan, either, for a little extra splash.
One other thing; none of the liquid assembly lubes are adequate for FT break in. You need a good moly break in lube for FT cams. You don't need to slather the stuff all over, either. A film thickness is all you need. Apply with a small brush but then I like to wipe it into the surface of the lobe with my finger to make sure there's good penetration into the metal. A thick coating is a waste and it just ends up in the bottom of the pan.

"Apply with a small brush". Something like a flux brush?

Lem Evans wrote:"Apply with a small brush". Something like a flux brush?  

Flux brush, acid brush...choose your weapon.

About 40 years ago when I worked at a regular production engine rebuilder we used to have weekly contests to see who prepped an installation the best, by using a stopwatch to see how long it took for an engine to start.

It was usually less than one revolution and it was a rare occurrence when it took more than 2 seconds ... and this was back in the day of points ignitions and carburetors.

Now, these were stock type engines however, a racing quality engine should not take much longer.