Budget Blower Engine Build

Is there such a thing?

I am starting putting together a plan for a new jet boat engine. Boat is a TX19 with a AA Bronze Impeller.

I currently have a D1VE block at the machine shop - it looks like it will need to go 30 over. I would like to use the stock crank. Do I need to upgrade the rods? The Machinest suggested HBeams because of the rod bolts associated with the stock rods.

I have Edelbrock 6066 95CC heads that have been worked over by Eric Weingartner our of Tulsa. They flow -
Intake Exhaust
.100 81.1 59.7
.200 148.9 108.8
.300 220.6 147.2
.400 272.5 177.6
.500 315.4 200.3
.600 344.1 217.1
.700 362.3 225.6
.800 369.5 227.9
.900 371.6 229.9
1 380.3 260.8

What pistons should I look at to keep my compression manageable (94 octane max)? Do I need to look at a custom grind cam or will something off the shelf be acceptable for this combination? I will run the headers dry. Is there a way to establish what the potential HP of this combination will be?

Thank you for the help. This isn't my first 460 build - but it is my first blower build.

What kind of blower?? Roots style, or centrifical??

Roots

I would do rods and pistons for sure. The stock crank is pretty stout. I would keep the compression around 8:1 if you want to run pump gas. The Blower shop has a nice 8:71 setup that works well.

Blown gas can be a tricky proposition at times since (compared to alcohol) the tuning window is relatively narrow, and pump gas can make blown gas that much more tricky.  Start by running rich and going through a lot of plugs in the beginning and ultimately keep the tune on the rich side--it's better than a meltdown.

Go with a lower compression and use the boost to make power.  It will be possible to generate over 1000 hp in a combo using the parts you describe, but, 1) maintenance will be substantial, and, 2) the probability of a 2-bolt block main cap failure is greater than most other high performance setups (particularly the #2 main cap).  If you're going to use the OEM parts like this and hope to maximize reliability, then build the engine relatively loose so as to let things move around, use a big blower to make the boost while turning it slow, and keep engine rpms down. It may not be the most efficient approach, but the power is there and risk of failure is minimized under the circumstances.  Stick with the OEM main bolts (not aftermarket studs).

If it were a personal build for myself, I'd probably 4-bolt the mains in the interest of improved reliability and longevity, while keeping hp below the 4-figure mark.

I have available a Mooneyham 8-71 & BT blower intake as a package...or a top end from the head gaskets on up (A429 heads)...or a complete engine hat-to-pan, zoomie-to-zoomie, fuel pump-to-flexplate, just hook up your fuel line.  Call directly if seriously interested.

It would also be wise to double key the crank....add another keyway on the crank snout, because that blower pulley/hub is going to be yanking on the crank snout every which way!!