What to do solid roller/hydro roller

Looking for some opinions here. Have a 10.5-1 466 with the CJ DOOR heads. These heads have had hardened ex seats installed and ran. Just recently refreshed. W new valves, valve job, new springs seals ect. I'm going to run a solid roller. I have the smallest extreme energy grind right now. XR274R-10 236/242 .650 lift. The doing comp recommends is calling for about 220 psi of seat pressure.. I'm scared to death that that 220 psi of seat pressure will beat the crap out of the casting above the hardened seat. These heads have been ran with the seats installed with now issues but with a light hydro flat tappet spring. Obviously im not using a weak spring with the solid cam. But since this is a mild roller cam I ease up on the spring requirements for seat and lifter longevity. The lifters are the endure X from comp. or maybe go to a hydro roller cam with the solid roller tight lash and the 160 psi seat springs the cam recommends. I already have the cam and lifters. This will be a cruiser. 70 galaxie XL. I'll definitely have the idle around 1000k to keep the lifters happy. What do you guys think. Matt..

Use a "street" solid roller camshaft with less aggressive ramps and uses a tighter required lash which will not need to use a lot of spring pressure.

Randy I think this is comps street grind. It's the smallest one they have. It has a lash of .016/.018 compared to their nasty cams of .028/.030... all of their extreme energy solid roller call for a spring with seat pressure of 220 psi. The cam I have says it's easy on parts for what it's worth?

The old Comp book shows a 938-16 spring for the 280AR and 300AR Street Rollers. It's a 210/540Lbs open spring. Does not sound that radical.

220# seat pressure won't beat things up IMO

torino501 wrote:Randy I think this is comps street grind. It's the smallest one they have. It has a lash of .016/.018 compared to their nasty cams of .028/.030... all of their extreme energy solid roller call for a spring with seat pressure of 220 psi. The cam I have says it's easy on parts for what it's worth?

The XR, (extreme energy), lobes CAN be used on the street as in Street/Strip but, are not street specific lobe profiles like their HER, (high energy), roller lobe profiles which use much lower valve spring pressures.

They won't make as much power either but, it is all in the choice you want to make for the maintenance.

A lack of enough spring pressure is what will beat the crap out of things. 220# for any solid roller isn't bad at all. We run hyd. rollers with that much. We run the Morel .903 hyd roller with solid lobe profiles and solid roller pressures. The right amount of spring pressure just helps to ensure that the lifter will follow the lobe and set the valve down like it's supposed to and not free fall and drop hard on the seat and bounce. That's a guaranteed valve train killer.

torino501 wrote:Looking for some opinions here. Have a 10.5-1 466 with the CJ DOOR heads. These heads have had hardened ex seats installed and ran. Just recently refreshed. W new valves, valve job, new springs seals ect. I'm going to run a solid roller. I have the smallest extreme energy grind right now. XR274R-10 236/242 .650 lift. The doing comp recommends is calling for about 220 psi of seat pressure.. I'm scared to death that that 220 psi of seat pressure will beat the crap out of the casting above the hardened seat. These heads have been ran with the seats installed with now issues but with a light hydro flat tappet spring. Obviously im not using a weak spring with the solid cam. But since this is a mild roller cam I ease up on the spring requirements for seat and lifter longevity. The lifters are the endure X from comp. or maybe go to a hydro roller cam with the solid roller tight lash and the 160 psi seat springs the cam recommends. I already have the cam and lifters. This will be a cruiser. 70 galaxie XL. I'll definitely have the idle around 1000k to keep the lifters happy. What do you guys think. Matt..

From the BBF stuff I have cammed over the years the OEM heads work best with at least a 12 to 14 degree split. If a BBF camshaft has less than this then one tell tale sign is the engine at a given rpm range will feel like it hits a wall....just doesn't want to rpm any more.