c-6 governor mods

I'm trying to raise the shift limits on my c-6 trans. I would like to get it in the 5600-5800 rpm range if possible by either machining or using a lighter spring. So far I've only removed the extra weight that was inside the secondary valve and installed a lighter spring. I haven't road tested to see what or if any changes were made. There isn't a whole lot of information on this subject that I can find. Anybody have more insight on this or am in going the right direction? It's a column 2 speed auto in a 57 Ford going into a c-6 so the detents dont really line properly. I'm not cutting the floor for a floor shifter and not going to replace the column either.

http://www.fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8427

A little info here and a claimed Ford TSB on the mod.

Thanks for the link. It's odd that the old c6 governor mods are kind of a black art as compared to a t400 where you can buy the weights and springs to tailor your shift points from your local speed shop.

Anyway, I'm going to get the secondary valve drilled out to the Cobra jet specs and remove more or add weight as needed.

The guy in the link ended up taking it to the machine shop to be milled after it burned up all his drill bits. I see the CJ units still bring $150.00.
I think most guys go manual/automatic on their shift kits and don't worry about shifting in drive, plus it's a pain to take the tailshaft housing off and on to mess with.

Was a post here recently with a 1/4 ball added to the governor . I can't find it right now

Gregaust wrote:Was a post here recently with a 1/4 ball added to the governor . I can't find it right now

I think Jay at Broader has the kits with balls to add or subtract to fine tune also.

supervel45 wrote:

Gregaust wrote:Was a post here recently with a 1/4 ball added to the governor . I can't find it right now

I think Jay at Broader has the kits with balls to add or subtract to fine tune also.

I called them and they no longer offer those kits.

I'm going to take it to the local machine shop today and get it hollowed out to CJ specs, 13/64's and .750 deep is what I managed to find. Another way to accomplish the same result would be to use a lighter spring, but sourcing and specing  out springs is a whole new can of worms.

Yes it is a pain to set up, removing the housing 2-3 times but once it's done it's done.

To shift it manually my stock column would have to be modded from the 2-speed shift detents to the c6 3 speed style. lots of fabrication to to the linkage/ column.  Cutting for a floor shifter is absolutely not going to happen. I kind of like the idea of leaving it in drive, just point, aim and steer.

Gregaust wrote:Was a post here recently with a 1/4 ball added to the governor . I can't find it right now

Greg,
Not sure if I was the "culprit" who posted the 1/4" check ball, but this is what I found when I opened up my governor:




Hope this helps.

That's interesting. Was your governor modified by someone? The secondary valve has different spring than mine and rather than a ball mine has a more cylinder shaped weight in it which I left out.

My local machinist didn't want to touch it unless I bought the carbide bit for it. But he did a series of tests on the spring pressures on a piece of equiptment he is rigging up to test fuel injector flow and gave me a couple springs that are roughly half the the original closed pressure.

I've got the trans all buttoned up and will try it and see what happens. At least this will give me a baseline in which direction to go.

aquartlow wrote:

Gregaust wrote:Was a post here recently with a 1/4 ball added to the governor . I can't find it right now

Greg,
Not sure if I was the "culprit" who posted the 1/4" check ball, but this is what I found when I opened up my governor:
Hope this helps.

That's the one . I did save the pics , found it very interesting. Would like to see what the difference is here with that mod

I read/researched that stated lightening one of the valves raises WOT shift point, when I opened my factory governor I found the check ball inside(I have also seen this in just a few [read very few] other pics floating around the internet showing the same factory installed check ball), I didn't have any tooling to lighten the valve so I just removed the CB instead and re-installed governor. Doing this raised WOT shift point from around 4400-4500 rpm to just over 5100 rpm and the CB removal also seemed to help with a down shift(like coming to a stop sign/traffic light) harshness my trans was experiencing. This thread may help, at least the pics showing the differences in the valves:
http://www.460ford.com/forum/42-general-tech/138014-pics-factory-c6-high-speed-governor.html

Update on governor mods. The lighter spring was a step in the wrong direction, I think the spring may have been to light. On a quick test drive around the block it wouldn't shift out of first gear till around 2500 rpm, I didnt even try from second to third. So what I did was put the original spring back in and left the small weight out. It seems to raised the shift points in normal driving by about 200-300 rpm. I can live with that. Next I'll have to road test it at WOT to see what it shifts at. Mine also had a harsh downshift from 2nd to 1st and it seems to have softened up a bit.

Good feedback !!!!!!

Hey Greg,
       Randy here . I have an NOS  DOOZ 429CJ governor I plan to use in my new C6. What RPM do they "usually" shift at? I know the modulator has an influence too. Just curious as to your experience. Any preference on servo and apply lever for a 600 hp 521 in a 4,000 lb daily driver  Ranchero? I can buy the Sonnax R if I have to.. CJ front drum and rollerized. I'm staying away from the low gear because it has so much torque.
    Thanks in advance.

I do like the R servo E lever combo. Although some of the larger apply factory servos work ok like a P or D or L with the basic A or B levers

Normal shift point on average would be around 4- 4500 i'd estimate.

I've used a lot of the Sonnax ones but considering trying another brand to save machining

Greg,
Not sure if I was the "culprit" who posted the 1/4" check ball, but this is what I found when I opened up my governor:
[img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1108580/fullsize/p82a0441.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1108581/fullsize/p82a0442.jpg[/img]

Hope this helps.[/quote]



Which 1 of the governor weights do i need to lighten to get both my shifts up to 6000-6200? Yes i could just manually shift it, but i really need to remove human error from the shifts. Right now in D its 5100-5200

The smaller secondary valve for higher shift points

I am attempting to change part throttle 2-3 upshift shift and have an earlier downshift while coming to a stop characteristics. Found info that stated lightening the C6 governor's primary(larger) valve would help in both of these situations(fingers crossed). The biggest issue about doing any work on the governor valves at home/shop is drilling these valves without pricey cutting tool/bit or waiting on it to ship/show up. I believe I found a cheap/shade tree way of drilling these(I would have bought the better cutting tool, but being Sunday afternoon meant trying what I had on-hand). I initially used a cone-shaped burr-bit(head porting bit) to get a center point, then I used a 3/16" carbide concrete drill bit meant for Tapcons(I am in the construction field) it took a few minutes but the carbide bit made it's way through the "hardened steel outer shell" of the valve. After drilling to a depth of 1/16" +/- I was able to use a regular Cobalt or even a black oxide drill bit to the desired depth, using PB Blaster as a lubricant. I then slightly opened the hole's opening with the cone burr-bit and used a 1/4" drill bit to further enlarge the hole in the primary valve and to a depth of .681"(I figured if I went to far a 1/4" check ball could be inserted in valve prior to re-installation). Now on to find out if this helps my shifting issues. Hope this info helps someone.

Good results? I'd like to try this out when possible.