Stripped Holley Squirter Threads from main body / info

[TravisRice]

Just thought I would pass this info along as I have ran across this in the past but with no good solution for a fix as the threads are actually a 12-28 thread for holley style squirter screws. In the past I and a few friends / clients have wrote the main bodies off as scrap and simply stripped them of parts and throwed them in the trash.

After stripping the threads in a fairly new Holley I did a google search and came up with a kit to repair the threads that consist of a modified drill bit, a brass threaded press in insert and a reamer offered by BLP or the former Bo-Laws carburetion. Might come in handy to someone as I figured I would have to buy a main body for a solution. A pretty simple fix for $50.

Here's the link for anyone interested.

https://blp.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_206

[cletus66]

Thanks for the info. I have a stripped one sitting on the shelf right now. Something told me to keep it even though it is probably 30 years old. Holley #4777 with no suffix. How old is that?

[rmcomprandy]

Just thought I would pass this info along as I have ran across this in the past but with no good solution for a fix as the threads are actually a 12-28 thread for holley style squirter screws. In the past I and a few friends / clients have wrote the main bodies off as scrap and simply stripped them of parts and throwed them in the trash.

After stripping the threads in a fairly new Holley I did a google search and came up with a kit to repair the threads that consist of a modified drill bit, a brass threaded press in insert and a reamer offered by BLP or the former Bo-Laws carburetion. Might come in handy to someone as I figured I would have to buy a main body for a solution. A pretty simple fix for $50.

Here's the link for anyone interested.

https://blp.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_206

You can repair it with the correct thread Heli-coil, too. Afterward you will need to use a hollow "hold down" screw.

[supervel45]

Just thought I would pass this info along as I have ran across this in the past but with no good solution for a fix as the threads are actually a 12-28 thread for holley style squirter screws. In the past I and a few friends / clients have wrote the main bodies off as scrap and simply stripped them of parts and throwed them in the trash.

After stripping the threads in a fairly new Holley I did a google search and came up with a kit to repair the threads that consist of a modified drill bit, a brass threaded press in insert and a reamer offered by BLP or the former Bo-Laws carburetion. Might come in handy to someone as I figured I would have to buy a main body for a solution. A pretty simple fix for $50.

Here's the link for anyone interested.

https://blp.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=78_206

You can repair it with the correct thread Heli-coil, too. Afterward you will need to use a hollow "hold down" screw.

This. Use a High Flow square head shooter screw with the center hole.

[supervel45]

Thanks for the info.  I have a stripped one sitting on the shelf right now.  Something told me to keep it even though it is probably 30 years old.  Holley #4777 with no suffix.  How old is that?  

The -1's came out in the early 70's 72-73 ish. Double pumpers came out about 1969. The first and only Oem that I know of was the 1969 L-88 in 1969, List # 4296.

[rmcomprandy]

Thanks for the info.  I have a stripped one sitting on the shelf right now.  Something told me to keep it even though it is probably 30 years old.  Holley #4777 with no suffix.  How old is that?  

The -1's came out in the early 70's 72-73 ish. Double pumpers came out about 1969. The first and only Oem that I know of was the 1969 L-88 in 1969, List # 4296.

Holley came out with that particular design hold-down screw in the 60's for use with the "Center Shooter" mechanical secondary carbs.

[gt350hr]

I have used the thread repair kit and it works perfect . Fixed a very rare '68 CJ carb I was ready to write off otherwise. Working perfect . I did use a hollow squirter like Randy suggested , though the broaches were still flowing fuel.

[TravisRice]

When I did the google search a heli coil fix with the hollow screw also came up. I had thought about the heli-coil but worried that the hollow screw might not be enough without the broaches functioning as well. I was also worried about breaking the tang off in the bottom of the hole and impeding or making the needle hang up. Mine has a 50cc pump and a .050 squirter. I thought that in the past the rule of thumb was anything over a .035 required the hollow screw. Any thoughts on that application and functionality using just the heli-coil fix? I've already got the BLP kit on the way but am always up to learn from others thoughts.

[bruno]

Good info thank you Travis

[pmrphil]

The hollow screw is needed as the helicoil threads almost block off the "side passages" for fuel. I admit I've never tried to use a solid screw afterward, but once you look into the now helicoiled hole, I certainly wouldn't attempt it, especially a 50cc pump. I've had many of the newer aftermarket center sections come through without the side machining, you can ONLY use hollow screws.

[rmcomprandy]

The hole through the center of a Holley hollow screw is .093" which is the size of the entire pump passageway.
That screw will not become any restriction. The most restriction is the tiny brass insert in the bottom of the hole which serves as the seat for the needle.
At just over .045" shooter holes (2), the normal side broaches start to become a restriction. The center shooter nozzles have 4 holes of .025"; (and a 50cc pump).

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