alternator mount set up with front engine plate

Hello all, new to this forum and thanks ahead of time for any help.

1989 Mustang LX coupe 460 / C6 with a one piece front mounting engine plate installed between the block and water pump. The crank pulley has been shimmed out to make up for the added thickness of the plate to align the water pump pulley. The homemade alternator bracket that attaches the 120 amp alternator to the engine plate works but it must be out just enough to throw the belt at high RPM,s.

Using the stock pulleys from a 1976 460 F250. No accessories -one belt drives the alt. to water pump to crank.

Can someone share how they mount the alternator with a similar set up please?

thanks Jeff

jcweis1 wrote:Hello all, new to this forum and thanks ahead of time for any help.

1989 Mustang LX coupe 460 / C6 with a one piece front mounting engine plate installed between the block and water pump. The crank pulley has been shimmed out to make up for the added thickness of the plate to align the water pump pulley. The homemade alternator bracket that attaches the 120 amp alternator to the engine plate works but it must be out just enough to throw the belt at high RPM,s.

Using the stock pulleys from a 1976 460 F250. No accessories -one belt drives the  alt. to water pump to crank.

Can someone share how they mount the alternator with a similar set up please?

thanks Jeff

Yes, I too would like to see what people have for alt to plate, as I didn't want a big cut-out with 650hp.

I've used this without a hateful notch. They sell them for 1 wire gm alternators and ford style as well. Low and down out of the way.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/429-460-Ford-Low-Mount-Alternator-Bracket-Billet-Aluminum-Big-Block-BBF-385-/111279968791

TravisRice wrote:I've used this without a hateful notch. They sell them for 1 wire gm alternators and ford style as well. Low and down out of the way.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/429-460-Ford-Low-Mount-Alternator-Bracket-Billet-Aluminum-Big-Block-BBF-385-/111279968791

Those are nice if your not using a motor plate. Top pic here. And it's a Mezier water pump.

I've seen them mounted to bottom of engine plate.

jcweis1 wrote:.....Using the stock pulleys from a 1976 460 F250......

I forget, were they using a narrow V-belt setup or a wide serpentine belt setup in 1976?

Also if it's a stock pulley setup (with large crank pulley/small alternator pulley) the pulley sizes & high belt speed at RPM might be part of the problem causing it to pitch the belt. A smaller crank pulley will slow down the belt speed, and a bigger alternator pulley will slow down the alternator speed making it's life easier.

If your using a stock pulley setup, and now your using a motorplate that's mounted 2+ inches from the face of the head, one of them has to be the giver. Plate will have to be notched or pulleys will have to change. It's really not a big deal to notch the motor plate to accommodate an alternator.

If you have room between the motorplate & the radiator you can also flip the alternator 180* (ass-end facing forward) and mount the alternator off the frame rail instead since an alternator will charge regardless of the direction you spin it .

Here is how I did mine. My plate has a shallow notch at the bottom and I made the bracket from some aluminum bar stock and cut the legs to get it close to alignment then use washers on the alternator pivot point to fine tune it. On the back side I made a bracket (painted black) that runs from the back pivot point to the fuel pump block off plate.

Remember too, that the alternator can face either direction.

I run the stock (heavy) alt from a 78 lincoln.It's bolted directly to the pass side of the motor plate facing forward and pivots on this bolt with a locknut and washer on the rear of the plate. The slotted adjustment arm I mounted on the front side of the front chassis tab for the lower control arm.The alt is mounted low, probably 2" below the crank centerline. Worked out real good for me because all I needed was the alt and the factory slotted adjustment arm and keeps the belt short.
Sheldon G.

Sheldon - can you add a picture please? For some reason if you attached a pic I cannot open it. It sounds like what you have would work best in my situation.

thanks
Jeff

Not sure how to post pics on here but if you want I can text you a pic. I will say that my engine has a lot of setback in the chassis so the A arm tabs worked out good for a mount location. You can probably do the same may need a spacer depending on location or weld a tab to your frame, I think my rails are 28" apart.
Sheldon

For an all out racecar just running the smallest alternator you can get will help. I'll get pics of mine and post.

I run a mini Denso style 1 wire and it was a breeze to mount. The local starter/alternator shop got it for me for $100 and it is the exact same alternator that East Coast electric sells for two to three times that. It makes enough amps to do the job going down the track...