I finally got my 528cu engine scratch that, still being buit with changes! LoL

Beautiful, man thats cool!

I to like the clean no frills look. No one will take a hard look at it untill you run it, and then they will all be looking close.
Congrats, and hope to see you with it at the next Bash. (If I'm back by then)
Kevin
Still Stuck in Iraq, Now in Tall'Afar
PS Please put a list of your build on this thread to go with the engine.

Trying to figure out an easy way to get all of these pictures over here.

http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?p=799172#post799172

Jones go to it log in and go to edit and then copy it and see if it will transfer that way for you

69F100 wrote:Jones go to it log in and go to edit and then copy it and see if it will transfer that way for you

It's doesn't pick-up all my pictures, just the text. I have tried to Quote and edit. I guess I'll just have to do it manually later.

This engine has been a work in progress for a couple of years now. It has snowballed from a simple stock rebuild, low compression turbo build to a high compression NA build with a plate.



First off I would like to thank some people.



Adney @ Performance Crankshaft (rotating assembly)

Lem @ BF Evans Ford (Parts, and anything else I need)

Blake Cartright (Cartright memorial camshaft)

Charlie Evans (Ported D3ve cylinder heads)

Lance Flake @ Finish Line (block machine work)



Ported d3ve cylinder heads by Charlie Evans

.100 78.3/52.5

.200 153/97.5

.300 222.3/131.6

.400 276.5/155.3

.500 305.5/165.3

.600 322.8/166.6

.700 334.1/167.5

.750 337.3/168.1

All numbers an average of 8 w/o pipe. 2.200 intake valve & 1.75 exhaust valve.



d1ve, ARP studs, King bearings
[/img]

Crankshaft, Scat 4.3 Cast


Scat 6.8 forged H-beam rods, ARP rod bolts w/ King bearings


KB forged flat top pistons w/ TotalSeal file fit 1/16 ring package


Top ring gap .023-.025

Second ring .025-.027

Oil ring min .035



Main clearances

1. 3.0030

2. 3.0034

3. 3.0029

4. 3.0031

5. 3.0021

Crankshaft

1. 2.9993

2. 2.9995

3. 2.9995

4. 2.9993

5. 2.9993

Clearance

1. .0037

2. .0039

3. .0034

4. .0038

5. .0028

Crankshaft thrust .006



It's been slow but I think I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. I just hope it runs good.

Got everything clean and installed the rods on the pistons. Who ever said installing spiral locks was hard, has to be doing it wrong. It took me no time, just using a small screwdriver. By the time my bro had a wrist pin installed I would have one lock done and half way through the second one.

Tech tip: If you are having problems installing spiral locks (triple @ that) you are doing it wrong. Step back and read the instructions.

[quote=jones;799178]Started final assembly,



We noticed that the #1 main bearing had the oil passage block that goes to the #1 cam bearing. So we thought about the situation and decided to chamfer the groove on the back of the main bearing. (Only in the location of the oil passage.) All for not though, come to find out that passage is intersected by another passage that intersects the main oil galley.



Crankshaft is torque down to 106ftlbs and spins like butter and thrust clearance messures .006



Went ahead and installed one piston because I was anxious to see how far the piston was down in the hole. To my joyful surprise the piston is only .016 bellow deck. Where the last rotating assembly the pistons where .028 bellow deck.

Now I know that my C/R will be 10.6:1. This is with a 4.420 bore, 4.3 stroke, 4.5 dia x .042 head gasket, 94cc chambers and 3cc pistons.



Pictures to come soon.[/quote]

[quote=jones;799192]One step I kinda left out that I have done so far is my final cleaning.



Before I started assembling the rods and pistons I cleaned everything. I filled a 5gal bucket full of very hot water then added Joy Dish washing detergent. Used a toothbrush and went over every part. Made it a point to go around the ring lands and then inside and outside. Then as each piece was cleaned I rinsed them off in a 5gal bucket of clean hot water. Did this same process with the wrist pins, rods, rings and bearings. The idea is to havve the water hot enough so when you remove the part it starts drying it's self off.

Before I cleaned the rods I took a very small pick and went over every oil passage in the small ends. I noticed there was a little bit of bushing material left from the drill process.

The crankshaft was a whole another beast it's self. I didn't have a safe way of cleaning the crankshaft like I did the other parts. The crank was the dirtiest part of all. So I bought a entire case of Brake Cleaner and went to town with a maroon Scotch Brite pad shop towels, pipe cleaners, .22 rifle bore brush and a small file. Needless to say I stayed away from the journals with the file and SB pad.

The crank cleaned-up reall nice, I made sure I went through every oil passage with the copper rifle brush rinsed and then used the white pipe cleaners to make sure it was clean. Used the small file to knock down some sharp edges from the ballancing process and everything else was just you basic cleaning.



Needless to say before we installed the crankshaft we looked over it one more time. Found where I had missed cleaning one of the large holes in the throws. Cleaned it up real quick, went over with a white cloth and in she went.[/quote]

[quote=jones;800544]We got the rotating assembled and installed this week.
Rod journal side clearance ended up being .019-.020


Pics

Give a big thanks to my brother for his help.










I replaced all of the valves springs and checked the installed height. I had Comp 930 valve springs setup at 1.900. Ended up having to and .015 shim to get the Bee-hive springs to setup too 1.900.
[/quote]


I just had to get a look of what the rocker arms would look like!

Picture of my brother and I (behind the engine) trying to get this cam timing thing understood! LOL

I finally got some new pictures.

Cylinder heads: I have the cylinder heads installed and torq down to 144ftlbs like ARP said for molly lube. I did it in three steps, 48, 96 & 144.

Pushrods: Measured the pushrods and appears that 8-1/2" will work. Not 100% sure yet. (I think that is stock pushrod length.) I got lucky and found the soft mock-up springs at the local John Deere dealer.

Waterpump: I forgot to paint the stock wated pump, so for now it's just going to be blue until I can get it painted. I might splearg for an aluminum water pump or electric some time in the future.

Camshaft: Timed the camshaft and used red lock tight on the came gear bolt and torq to 45ftlbs. (Installed on 102)

Oil Pan: Set the oil pick-up to 3/8" off the oil pan floor. In order to clear the pick-up tube I had to cut a stud down, since I am using the extra long studs for a windage tray.

The intake manifold is just sitting on there until the lifters soak for a day.

wow... nice build data/pictures/progress... very detailed

Thanks, I just realized I forgot to post the mains stud torque rating. I'll have to look in my papers.

jones wrote:Thanks, I just realized I forgot to post the mains stud torque rating. I'll have to look in my papers.

Wow, it has been a long time since I have posted anything on the engine build. Decide to go with aluminum heads and change the build a little.
May I introduce to you,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Big and Large!!

very nice

nice intake you got there Josh!....now you need the heads to match!

edit*

nice...

Have you decided on the heads as yet?

jones wrote:Wow, it has been a long time since I have posted anything on the engine build. Decide to go with aluminum heads and change the build a little.
May I introduce to you,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, Big and Large!!

That bottom one looks just like the manifold on my car..................

Man. I must've been drinkin' a little too much when Lem talked about those manifolds. I didn't think they would be available for a few more months...

jbozzelle wrote:Man. I must've been drinkin' a little too much when Lem talked about those manifolds. I didn't think they would be available for a few more months...

John they won,t be these are pre production, castings....


Randy

Thought so

Jonesy, you need to change the title of this since the engine isn't finished...

Now go bu some heads and get 'er done.

This build has told me a lot about myself. I should have built the engine from the begining like I wanted and not listened to folks that wanted me to cheap out on foundation parts.