Dropped Off the Block, Let's Finalized the Combo

Car: 1951 Mercury Sedan, roughly 4k pounds
Purpose: Cruising and surprising people on the interstate occasionally
Block:Stock 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis
Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM, most likely 95cc
Compression Goal:9-9.5:1
Rockers: Harland Sharp 1.73
Intake: Edelbrock Performer (may put an Air Gap on it eventually, but they are out of stock everywhere)
Kaase Rear Sump Oil Pump
Edelbrock Water Pump

Limiting factor: Currently is the stock manifolds. It may get headers eventually, but not initially. It has a Mustang II front end, sits low and there are lots of clearance issues. So initially, it's going in with the stock manifolds, but I'd like to build the engine to be capable of more than the current exhaust system, as long as it will be tunable. I'm definitely open to adding custom headers at a later date, but not as part of this project.

Reading here, it seems like 521ci is a safe, reliable size go with, but I'm open. 545 sounds cooler, lol. I read the most recent thread here, but most of it was about a 6.6 rod. All the kits I'm looking at are either 6.7, or 6.8". Is there a proven reliability issue with one or the other? If it's all the same price, why leave torque on the table?

On the heads, they are all about the same price, but trying to make sure the pistons match the valve angles and placement, AFR's require their intake. Edelbrock RPM's are in stock and they will get the job done on this modest street engine. Seems like hitting the easy button.

Now, for the brain. I've only dealt with HR cams in SBF's. I can't gauge the "norm" for a 460 build. I've always used Comp Cams, or custom grinds from them, would like to stay with them, unless i NEED a cam specifically from another manufacturer. This thing would only see 6krpms on a dyno. It's going to be cruising up and down the interstate with a C6 behind it. As someone that has always built for high performance, I fully expect to get roasted for this, but I'd like it to have a little chop to it when it rolls up to a car meet. It's hotrod, after all. Need plenty of vacuum for the brakes. Looking for a good compromise there. Which Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam would you guys recommend? Will it work with the valve springs that come stock on the Edelbrock 60669 cylinder head? Do I need a higher stall converter for drivability?

Thank you guys in advance for sharing your knowledge.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f49/20/45/00/14/img_0112.jpg

Screw Compromise. Put a Dominator on this one and let her eat.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/572ci-ford-big-block-built-to-eat-rat-motors/

DFree383 did good on that one.

Big Cubes Need Big Air and lots of it to Breath.

Edelbrock RPM's $2,600

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-60679?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwj7CZBhDHARIsAPPWv3cndD9mJV95nbXjQ1q71zBW_L21gOKjWyfQAA5qQgTz9xpLiJOyUT8aAsUVEALw_wcB

Kaase SR-71's $3,000

https://jonkaaseracingengines.com/shop/cylinder-heads/kaase-sr-71-cylinder-heads/

Doesn't compute in my head or wallet on a 545,552 or 557 in the least.

Pistons 10.42/1 Compression 557 Cubic Inch's 38cc Dish .010" in the hole. 6.7" Rod.

https://www.us.mahle.com/media/usa/motorsports/bbf-kaase-p-51-sr-71-2021-web.pdf

Intake TFS Mafia

https://jonkaaseracingengines.com/shop/intakes/trickflow-mafia-4500-series-cj-intake-manifold/

JBtothez wrote:Car: 1951 Mercury Sedan, roughly 4k pounds
Purpose: Cruising and surprising people on the interstate occasionally
Block:Stock 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis
Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM, most likely 95cc
Compression Goal:9-9.5:1
Rockers: Harland Sharp 1.73
Intake: Edelbrock Performer (may put an Air Gap on it eventually, but they are out of stock everywhere)
Kaase Rear Sump Oil Pump
Edelbrock Water Pump

Limiting factor: Currently is the stock manifolds.  It may get headers eventually, but not initially.  It has a Mustang II front end, sits low and there are lots of clearance issues.  So initially, it's going in with the stock manifolds, but I'd like to build the engine to be capable of more than the current exhaust system, as long as it will be tunable.  I'm definitely open to adding custom headers at a later date, but not as part of this project.

Reading here, it seems like 521ci is a safe, reliable size go with, but I'm open.  545 sounds cooler, lol.  I read the most recent thread here, but most of it was about a 6.6 rod.  All the kits I'm looking at are either 6.7, or 6.8".  Is there a proven reliability issue with one or the other?  If it's all the same price, why leave torque on the table?

On the heads, they are all about the same price, but trying to make sure the pistons match the valve angles and placement, AFR's require their intake.  Edelbrock RPM's are in stock and they will get the job done on this modest street engine.  Seems like hitting the easy button.

Now, for the brain.  I've only dealt with HR cams in SBF's.  I can't gauge the "norm" for a 460 build.  I've always used Comp Cams, or custom grinds from them, would like to stay with them, unless i NEED a cam specifically from another manufacturer.  This thing would only see 6krpms on a dyno.  It's going to be cruising up and down the interstate with a C6 behind it.  As someone that has always built for high performance, I fully expect to get roasted for this, but I'd like it to have a little chop to it when it rolls up to a car meet.  It's hotrod, after all.  Need plenty of vacuum for the brakes.  Looking for a good compromise there.  Which Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam would you guys recommend?  Will it work with the valve springs that come stock on the Edelbrock 60669 cylinder head?  Do I need a higher stall converter for drivability?

Thank you guys in advance for sharing your knowledge.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f49/20/45/00/14/img_0112.jpg

Seems to me a Edelbrock RPM head with a 75cc chamber would be the way to go on a pump gas stroker.

When you get your kit with dished pistons from 28cc-38cc, get the SCJ/P51/SR-71/AFR cut.

If you go with better heads later they will bolt right on.

The dish is so deep on the Probe 33.3cc piston that the valve relief is .00" depth and the Dish Wall is all the is Cut Out.

https://www.coasthigh.com/Ford-532-557-33-3cc-Reverse-Dome-SRS-Pistons-p/14804.htm

Post #58

https://www.460ford.com/threads/are-the-kaase-p-51-heads-worth-over-5-000.249337/page-3

If I am mistaken in this assumption please correct me.

The 95cc's make sense if you go with a better head later and want to up the compression and cut another valve notch or replace the pistons I guess.

OP you can used to be able to get those EBay shorty Sanderson clone headers dirt cheap. Why mess with cast manifolds on $2,600 dollar heads?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-241731-10
https://www.howardscams.com/hydraulic-flat-tappet-camshaft-1968-1995-ford-429-460-2800-6600-howards-cams-241731-10

^ Check this one splits the difference of the 234 A/443/Edelbrock and the 244/245 C460/Lunati with
21 degrees of overlap with high lift. Foot Note 16 Howards Link Page 252

https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/Howards2016_17_mid.pdf

I suspect the lobe are similar to the the Crane F5's for the .875 lifters and not the .842 Chevy ones a lot of these Fords are cut on.

I edited the wrong post an I am not retyping it.

Here is your Edelbrock specs. on the heads. It lists the spring part numbers.  Pg. 111,112 and 118, springs pg.125/126 and cam pg.128. It gives the spring part numbers ect.

The Edelbrock #7167 Cam is Dyno Tested good for 500 HP in a 460. I would stick with the 4.3/6.8" 521 if you go stroker  and that cam would be good for it also on your deal. It is on a 108 LSA where as the old SVO version is on a 112 LSA. Hence better low end for the it for the Edelbrock cam.

Springs: #5745 and #5823

Solid Roller: .730" Not Listed Call

https://edelbrock-files-v1.s3.amazonaws.com/catalogs/2019-Edelbrock-Catalog.pdf

A little more 460 Edelbrock Cyl. Head Info.


https://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/300/350/350-61669.pdf


Is your block a D1VE?

Ive got a pump gas 521 in my 70 Torino with Edel 60669 heads. Its got a HFT cam that is similar to the old Motorsports A443. Its at 10.5 compression and is a street setup that's been to the track where it did 11.48 in the quarter. When it had exhaust manifolds it went 11.80's

Those Edel heads dont hold a candle to SCJ's but they are quality pieces except for the springs and retainers. On a total rebuild with pistons I recommend TFS streets or SCJ's. Pistons will be different for either. If you are looking for regular pump gas keep the compression down to 9.5
A mild cam to keep the exhaust clean will make for an enjoyable cruise. Cam 215/225 duration with .600" lift and 110 to 112 LSA will work well with manifolds. Prefer PI or SCJ manifolds.
6.8" rods keep the pin another .100" higher in the bore over a 6.7" rod which is a good thing for life. Your post shows me that you've done your homework and your ready to pull the trigger. If you can trade your block for a D9TE that would be better as the bores are .200" longer.

I have personal experience with Edel 60669, FMS SCJ, Kaase P-51, and Kaase SR-71 heads. I can tell you that Kaase heads are awesome but the higher end heads are rather overkill for your project. They will easily overshoot your power goals and make a mismatched build.

Block:Stock 1978 Mercury Grand Marquis
Heads: Edelbrock Performer RPM, most likely 95cc
Compression Goal:9-9.5:1

Intake: Edelbrock Performer (may put an Air Gap on it eventually, but they are out of stock everywhere)

Edelbrock Water Pump

Limiting factor: Currently is the stock manifolds.  It may get headers eventually, but not initially.  It has a Mustang II front end, sits low and there are lots of clearance issues.  So initially, it's going in with the stock manifolds, but I'd like to build the engine to be capable of more than the current exhaust system, as long as it will be tunable.  I'm definitely open to adding custom headers at a later date, but not as part of this project.

Quote:^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I was getting at the room to grow part above.^

I'd save the money on the water pump and get a new Napa or Gates.

I stand behind what I said about the pistons.

Did you mean to say regular Peformer or regular Performer RPM?

Sucks now the springs and keepers or subpar.  Maybe next year the better stuff will come back or call Lem for some SCJ's if he has any?

The SVO A443 has 15 degree's overlap.

The Edelbrock Cam #7167 like it has 23 degree's overlap.

Less overlap better vacuum.

https://www.summitracing.com/newsandevents/calcsandtools/summit-cam-timing-calculator

^ You can play with the overlap to compare different cams easy with the above program.


https://www.ragtop50.com/data/85.pdf

Here's the old SVO stuff, you can match the numbers to.

Lot of ways to skin a cat, and it's been rehashed to death.

The shortage of Cylinder Heads just brought it back 20 to 35  years the way I see it.





















[/quote]

Thanks for the replies gents. Getting closer to finalizing the rotating assembly. Took Supervel’s advice and went with a 38cc dish piston, 6.7 rod, 4.5” stroke, for a 545. Sticking with the Edelbrock heads, but going with a 75cc chamber.

How does the engine displacement effect the torque converter recommendations for cams? A Comp Cam that I’m looking at that I think would work well recommends a 2400 stall converter. With the higher displacement and heavy weight of the car is that really needed? I would think having that high of a stall would be annoying on the street, but I have no experience. My toys have always been manuals.

Well I did not advise you to go 4.5" stroke 6.7" rod. I was using that as an example on the pistons and valve relief's as to other cylinder heads that would interchange and also the small combustion chamber advantage.

The same piston work's with a 4.3" crank and a 6.8" rod, same part# number.

If you want the Extra Cubes it will work. It does keep the wrist pin out of the rings, so there's that.

I am with Dave on the D9 block deal especially on the 4.5" stroke.

The cam company's base there stall recomendations on the 429/460 engines. With around 100 cubes more you can run a tighter convertor. Same deal with the convertor companies a 2,400 stall will be higher with a big block then a weak small block. I ran a 2,200 and a 2,800 with my mild 429 and liked the tight convertor better especially on the highway.

List the Cam Spec's on your stall question?

I don't put that much stock in the stall/gear/compression/carburetor size reomendations from the cam companies as they a pretty generic in my opinion.

JBtothez wrote:Thanks for the replies gents.  Getting closer to finalizing the rotating assembly.  Took Supervel’s advice and went with a 38cc dish piston, 6.7 rod, 4.5” stroke, for a 545.  Sticking with the Edelbrock heads, but going with a 75cc chamber.  

How does the engine displacement effect the torque converter recommendations for cams?  A Comp Cam that I’m looking at that I think would work well recommends a 2400 stall converter.  With the higher displacement and heavy weight of the car is that really needed?  I would think having that high of a stall would be annoying on the street, but I have no experience.  My toys have always been manuals.

Just for an Example

Edelbrock Victor CJ RPM Heads Out the Box: 514 Cubic Inch 92 Octane 630 Dyno HP Victor Intake 1050 Dominator Comp Cams XR286 Solid Roller.

Link to XR286R-10 Below.

https://www.compcams.com/xtreme-energy-248-254-solid-roller-cam-for-ford-429-460.html

3,000 stall recomended for a 429/460. A 545 could get by with less. I have on much smaller engines, example 429 221 degrees at .050"  with power brakes and 2,200 stall ditto on the small blocks with mid 230's and 2,800, no problem.

It is true that roller cams do tone down the choppy idle some.

I get it you want to run a HFT and that's fine but I would stick to a cam like the Edebrock for tame and something along the lines SVO C460 cam if you really want to grow in the future as you said.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10340505  

^Closest thing I have Found to the C460 cam and I looked high and low just to compare and ran them all through the old cam card library. The one above is 1/2 degree off on the valve events of the C460, Both on a 110LSA .The Lunati has a little more lift. So it's a tad bigger.

C460 Cam Spec's. https://www.ragtop50.com/data/85.pdf


The overlap on the XR286 comes out to 31 degrees using the .050" duration.

If you cut it on a 112 LSA it goes down to 27 degrees and on a 114 it's only 23 degrees, if you really want a smoother idle higher vacuum. Just something to keep in mind, not saying you should.

Hell look at the Factory 429CJ/SCJ stuff, low 220ish HFT 429CJ and right at 230ish SFT 429SCJ. Link below.

https://cdn.website.thryv.com/7fc8b09813234ba0b3c5e3c0a1b8c109/files/uploaded/Camshaft-Specifications-429-460.pdf

Sure they had around 114LSA's but, still 429 cubes. An those are small cams compared to the Other Makes Muscle of the Day. You did say you wanted  a "Little Chop"?

What I am getting at is I would not get too conservative with your cam pick worrying about power brakes and stall convertors if you plan to up the HP in the future.

I would not compromise too much on this deal myself. It's not going in a tow truck it's a Hot Rod Mercury with aa Aluminum Headed Stroked Cammed Big Block after all that needs some steam past 4,500 Rpm.

And just for kicks what can be done with a Big Block Big Inch Caped up Heavy Ford.

https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/stopgap-stang-1971-ford-mustang-mach-1

Oh Yea With Factory Castings to Boot and Polyglas Tires.

Check out the Howards #241731-10. Splits the difference of the A443 and C460 cams with 238/244 at .050" Lift and 21 degree's of overlap.

https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/Howards2016_17_mid.pdf

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-241731-10

^Pg. 254 and Foot note: 16 Probably cut on .875" "Ford" lifter lobes instead of the .842" Chevy stuff most of the other Ford grinds use.
If you noticed DFee383's 572 EMC engine used Mopar .904" roller lifters and I bet money Lane's 1971 Mustang did too.

PS: If that came out of a late model 1978 it well could be a D9TE block with a 3Yxx crank. It's been said forever that the switch was made mid year and some made it into 1978's.

Did it have a Hatchet weight behind the balancer?

JBtothez wrote:Thanks for the replies gents.  Getting closer to finalizing the rotating assembly.  Took Supervel’s advice and went with a 38cc dish piston, 6.7 rod, 4.5” stroke, for a 545.  Sticking with the Edelbrock heads, but going with a 75cc chamber.  

How does the engine displacement effect the torque converter recommendations for cams?  A Comp Cam that I’m looking at that I think would work well recommends a 2400 stall converter.  With the higher displacement and heavy weight of the car is that really needed?  I would think having that high of a stall would be annoying on the street, but I have no experience.  My toys have always been manuals.

Building a 545 for a four door, skinny tire cruiser may be a bit over the top. Then stroking to 4.5" with a 6.7" rod will pull the pin out of the bores bottom of a D1VE block. This will create more side loading and piston wear than a street cruiser should have. Your cruiser should be under cammed for a smooth low rpm experience and maximize mid range torque. Even with that you will be able to smoke the tires on a 50 mph roll. I'm sure that you want it to be smooth while cruising at 2,000 rpm.
A 2400 stall is hardly noticeable over stock.

supervel45 wrote:Check out the Howards #241731-10. Splits the difference of the A443 and C460 cams with 238/244 at .050" Lift and 21 degree's of overlap.

https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/Howards2016_17_mid.pdf

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-241731-10

^Pg. 254 and Foot note: 16 Probably cut on .875" "Ford" lifter lobes instead of the .842" Chevy stuff most of the other Ford grinds use.
If you noticed DFee383's 572 EMC engine used Mopar .904" roller lifters and I bet money Lane's 1971 Mustang did too.

PS: If that came out of a late model 1978 it well could be a D9TE block with a 3Yxx crank. It's been said forever that the switch was made mid year and some made it into 1978's.

Did it have a Hatchet weight behind the balancer?

No weight behind the balancer, just the spacer. Block is at the machinist, but I can check for crank markings.

Dave De wrote:

JBtothez wrote:Thanks for the replies gents.  Getting closer to finalizing the rotating assembly.  Took Supervel’s advice and went with a 38cc dish piston, 6.7 rod, 4.5” stroke, for a 545.  Sticking with the Edelbrock heads, but going with a 75cc chamber.  

How does the engine displacement effect the torque converter recommendations for cams?  A Comp Cam that I’m looking at that I think would work well recommends a 2400 stall converter.  With the higher displacement and heavy weight of the car is that really needed?  I would think having that high of a stall would be annoying on the street, but I have no experience.  My toys have always been manuals.

Building a 545 for a four door, skinny tire cruiser may be a bit over the top. Then stroking to 4.5" with a 6.7" rod will pull the pin out of the bores bottom of a D1VE block. This will create more side loading and piston wear than a street cruiser should have. Your cruiser should be under cammed for a smooth low rpm experience and maximize mid range torque. Even with that you will be able to smoke the tires on a 50 mph roll. I'm sure that you want it to be smooth while cruising at 2,000 rpm.
A 2400 stall is hardly noticeable over stock.

So I should go 521, with a mild cam? Still in the 500/500 range with header, most likely.

JBtothez wrote:

Dave De wrote:

JBtothez wrote:Thanks for the replies gents.  Getting closer to finalizing the rotating assembly.  Took Supervel’s advice and went with a 38cc dish piston, 6.7 rod, 4.5” stroke, for a 545.  Sticking with the Edelbrock heads, but going with a 75cc chamber.  

How does the engine displacement effect the torque converter recommendations for cams?  A Comp Cam that I’m looking at that I think would work well recommends a 2400 stall converter.  With the higher displacement and heavy weight of the car is that really needed?  I would think having that high of a stall would be annoying on the street, but I have no experience.  My toys have always been manuals.

Building a 545 for a four door, skinny tire cruiser may be a bit over the top. Then stroking to 4.5" with a 6.7" rod will pull the pin out of the bores bottom of a D1VE block. This will create more side loading and piston wear than a street cruiser should have. Your cruiser should be under cammed for a smooth low rpm experience and maximize mid range torque. Even with that you will be able to smoke the tires on a 50 mph roll. I'm sure that you want it to be smooth while cruising at 2,000 rpm.
A 2400 stall is hardly noticeable over stock.

So I should go 521, with a mild cam?  Still in the 500/500 range with header, most likely.

If it was me with a DIVE block I would stay 521/6.8" rod especially with the Eddie heads.

What I think Daves getting at is with the big HP deal that I kind of jokingly and suggested in my first post, will likely over power your frame and you won't be able to use it all from traction limitations. If you do some mods to get traction you may twist up you nice classic car also.

I still would not get too conservative with your cam choice either but stay away from the C460 and big lunati.

If it was my deal and I wanted a cam like you describe I would likely go with the Howards 241491-10.
It's 232/238 .614"/.635" 110/106. Pg. 254 Plenty of Lift and Semi Conservative in Duration. https://www.howardscams.com/sites/default/files/Howards2016_17_mid.pdf

As for as what I said about the pistons you will need to check your radial intake valve clearance with the Eddie's to be safe. They may need a small flycut. Check the picture on my link in the last post.

https://www.429-460.com/t28756-stroker-heads-and-cam

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/88801

Not sure what you mean about the 500/500 range. If it means you are giving up on headers in the future you may even want to go more conservative with your cam choice.

The CJ and sometimes cheaper Police Interceptor exhausts would help but they are kind of pricey.

If it did not have the hatchet spacer behind the balancer it is Not a D9TE block if it is stock from Ford.

I meant to quote your last post on the 521 and block deal.

PS: The Howards 232/238 cam above has the same 15 degree's of overlap as the SVO A443 that Dave mentioned in his Torino.

This Exhaust Note Too Choppy?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEmuJlKbSvI

JBtothez wrote:

Dave De wrote:

JBtothez wrote:Thanks for the replies gents.  Getting closer to finalizing the rotating assembly.  Took Supervel’s advice and went with a 38cc dish piston, 6.7 rod, 4.5” stroke, for a 545.  Sticking with the Edelbrock heads, but going with a 75cc chamber.  

How does the engine displacement effect the torque converter recommendations for cams?  A Comp Cam that I’m looking at that I think would work well recommends a 2400 stall converter.  With the higher displacement and heavy weight of the car is that really needed?  I would think having that high of a stall would be annoying on the street, but I have no experience.  My toys have always been manuals.

Building a 545 for a four door, skinny tire cruiser may be a bit over the top. Then stroking to 4.5" with a 6.7" rod will pull the pin out of the bores bottom of a D1VE block. This will create more side loading and piston wear than a street cruiser should have. Your cruiser should be under cammed for a smooth low rpm experience and maximize mid range torque. Even with that you will be able to smoke the tires on a 50 mph roll. I'm sure that you want it to be smooth while cruising at 2,000 rpm.
A 2400 stall is hardly noticeable over stock.

So I should go 521, with a mild cam?  Still in the 500/500 range with header, most likely.

Yes a 521 with a mild mid-range cam I think it would be more like 550hp and 600ft-lbs torque. Not sure about the suspension up front but you can probably use 80's truck headers. Will that Merc handle 600 ft-lbs of torque?

A 521 using a marine cam or something similar, (the A460 cam was the marine camshaft), works very well for a performance street cruiser with iron exhaust manifolds.

A 2,400 rpm stall converter is almost un-noticable except at idle and just off idle; which is improved immensely.

Dave De wrote:
So I should go 521, with
Yes a 521 with a mild mid-range cam I think it would be more like 550hp and 600ft-lbs torque. Not sure about the suspension up front but you can probably use 80's truck headers. Will that Merc handle 600 ft-lbs of torque?

I apologize to you guys if I seem a little all over the place with this build.  I’m reading and learning as I go, and trying to absorb the directions and advice as I go, rather than being one of those dudes that ask for help and then do whatever the hell they want anyway, even against the advice of others that know better.

So, due to a lot of week cam cores, and an over abundance of caution, I’m going hydraulic roller for the cam.  It may dumb down the idle chop some, but no fear of wiping a cam lobe.

I’ve ordered Comp Cams Evolution Hydraulic lifters and a Howard cam, along with Comp Ultra Pro Magnum XD roller rockers.  I also went with an all forged 521 with Mahle -38cc pistons and Edelbrock HR RPM heads.  Pretty much down to gaskets and pushrods at this point.

I’ll post some clearance pics later on for some header advice.  It’s tight and low to the ground.  As far as being able to handle the power, I doubt it would hold it at full tilt boogy right now, but the 9” is going to be getting cut off the leafs, narrowed and reworked suspension wise.  But I can cruise it at a reasonable throttle input until it can accept the rapid acceleration it doesn’t know it wants.

Anyone know if the Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnum Roller Rockers will fit under the stock sheet metal valve covers?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1830-16

You did get the 1.73 and not the 1.70's I hope? Just checking. Comp also list a 1.73 for BBC 1823, so be careful.

I believe those short poly locks will clear. If not people have been known to glue two gaskets together.

I don't know if you found an intake yet but, I ran across this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403892249804?epid=28037517913&hash=item5e09daa4cc:g:XfgAAOSw57pjI6Nq&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoJWtGsSYGvMEYp9YhC4f6Hizs4XqacWTLw8QD%2FMzMec1Ipb6r6XdNgl%2FfASXqSpOHqK3tecHMvoNrkm9dOzhg9Ec%2FYjq%2Fnm0ZrXZG1X%2BMVxxWLbzuHD9rJL675O0nglZ8LD50O%2FivJjiOH2x0L6BTsumm7J816848HW6az6IChSzRS7tMevLQgTRojkGoENt9l6K%2B8ZagxB36rWXIhrOzrE%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8aDtvr1YA

These are nice and pretty cheap also if you don't have any and don't want to make one.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/pushrod-tool/p/proform-7-5in-to-8-7in-range-length-checking-pushrod/750920_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:PEL:816109834&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-fmZBhDtARIsAH6H8qgT3lPknVr6I7TMehYjcfoivP_IoKNa2U2FtrOZsufEKDZ5vZXow4QaAv_mEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hope we didn't talk you into wussing out too much on the cam.   Here's a 521 720HP with a roller, you can hear the idle a few times like at the 5 minute mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox6w1G3L-4Y

I just noticed ... personally, I would not use that water pump unless it is a race cor because it doesn't pump well at slow speeds but, great at high pump RPM.

Look into a FlowKooler pump; although they are iron.

rmcomprandy wrote:I just noticed ... personally, I would not use that water pump unless it is a race cor because it doesn't pump well at slow speeds but, great at high pump RPM.

Look into a FlowKooler pump; although they are iron.

According to the Edelbrock website, these aren’t race pumps. They are designed for street rods, which spend a lot of time at low rpm.

supervel45 wrote:https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1830-16

You did get the 1.73 and not the 1.70's I hope? Just checking. Comp also list a 1.73 for BBC 1823, so be careful.

I believe those short poly locks will clear. If not people have been known to glue two gaskets together.

I don't know if you found an intake yet but, I ran across this one.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/403892249804?epid=28037517913&hash=item5e09daa4cc:g:XfgAAOSw57pjI6Nq&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoJWtGsSYGvMEYp9YhC4f6Hizs4XqacWTLw8QD%2FMzMec1Ipb6r6XdNgl%2FfASXqSpOHqK3tecHMvoNrkm9dOzhg9Ec%2FYjq%2Fnm0ZrXZG1X%2BMVxxWLbzuHD9rJL675O0nglZ8LD50O%2FivJjiOH2x0L6BTsumm7J816848HW6az6IChSzRS7tMevLQgTRojkGoENt9l6K%2B8ZagxB36rWXIhrOzrE%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8aDtvr1YA

These are nice and pretty cheap also if you don't have any and don't want to make one.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/pushrod-tool/p/proform-7-5in-to-8-7in-range-length-checking-pushrod/750920_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:PEL:816109834&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-fmZBhDtARIsAH6H8qgT3lPknVr6I7TMehYjcfoivP_IoKNa2U2FtrOZsufEKDZ5vZXow4QaAv_mEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hope we didn't talk you into wussing out too much on the cam.   Here's a 521 720HP with a roller, you can hear the idle a few times like at the 5 minute mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ox6w1G3L-4Y

The Ultra Pro Magnums look like they take a 5/16” ball head, but the RPM heads came set up for 3/8 pushrods. Guessing that will make that a little more of an investment. They are the 1.73 model. I ordered one of the recommended Howard’s cam. I called and spoke with someone there and they fine tuned what I was asking for.

As far as intakes go, I’d like to do the Air Gap RPM, but will probably stay with the regular Performer that I already have for now. Adding the HR cam soaked up that part of the budget. And I’m already way over what I’d planned to spend. The “while you’re in there’s” took over. Should be a great engine that will run forever though!

What? The 3/8" are 5/16" on the ends. The link was for a pushrod checking tool, so you order the correct length  pushrods. You could likely sleeve the checker for the larger guide plate and get your lengths. The roller stuff adds up quick. For my lowish rpm deal I just opted for the roller tips.

If you are going to run your Performer for now you might try a 2" spacer to give it some more plenum volume for all the cubes.