06 Mustang build

curiousgeorge wrote:Had just had enough time to unload the hood and set it on the car. Looks like I’m going to have to loose some height. I don’t know if I can find a thinner 4500 intake to 4150 adapter but I have to be able to put a vacuum port in it. I know I have to to get an air filter element that’s less than 4”.

Change the baseplate on the 4150 to a dual pattern baseplate with the slotted hold down bolt holes and loose the adaptor.

Also I believe you said it was an 830. Those use 750 base plates, I believe with 1 11/16" throttle blades.

You could go to a 850 base plate with 1 3/4" throttle blades and convert it. Not even sure if they even make a 750 dual bolt one.

If you do that, be sure the body to base plate holes for the idle feeds line up.

If they don't use the baseplate gasket that is slotted and connects them.

^ They will probably line up, though it good to double check if you go that route.

supervel45 wrote:
Change the baseplate on the 4150 to a dual pattern baseplate with the slotted hold down bolt holes and loose the adaptor.

Also I believe you said it was an 830. Those use 750 base plates, I believe with 1 11/16" throttle blades.

You could go to a 850 base plate with 1 3/4" throttle blades and convert it. Not even sure if they even make a 750 dual bolt one.

If you do that, be sure the body to base plate holes for the idle feeds line up.

If they don't use the baseplate gasket that is slotted and connects them.

^ They will probably line up, though it good to double check if you go that route.

I’m going to see how much air filter will clear first. If I replace the adapter I’m going to have to drill and tap the intake for the vacuum port.
I do still have the offenhouser that takes a 4150.
Hopefully I have some time this weekend to see what it will take.

The make base plates with vacuum ports I believe with the dual pattern.

Would that work?

Hate to see you change that intake. It looks good and I bet it will run better than any other one you could replace it with.

That would probably work. I think it’ll clear a 2” element but we shall see

I used one of these on the last version of this engine. It's only 1/2" thick, and uses the crooked carb studs, but it worked fine.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I used one of these on the last version of this engine.  It's only 1/2" thick, and uses the crooked carb studs, but it worked fine.

IIRC that's the same adapter i used before my cousin said he had a Dominator Flange Victor Intake that was already ported to Cobra Jet Size Ports!!I used it on the 4150 Victor with a 1050 Dominator and it worked fine for me!!I don't know if the Dominator flange manifold made much difference or not from using that adapter on the 4150 Victor and 1050 Dominator!!I wish i would have kept it i sold it with the 4150 Flange Victor and 1050 3 circuit Quick Fuel 1050 QFX Dominator i had!!I bought a used Quick Fuel QFX 1050 2 Circuit off this site that worked better than the 3 Circuit for street driving!!

I had a 1050 dominator that I was going to run until I convinced myself that an 850 ish carb would be better suited to this engine. I ended up trading it for the 830 that I have now.

Well I got a a few hours of time to spend on the car today.

Project #1 Hood
I had a 2” element from my brothers truck that I tried. I have the K&N filter top and with the drop base and 2” element the top was sitting on the front vent tube. It fit but would rub the hood. I’m going to have to loose some height there and the 1930 mr gasket adapter is obsolete so I will be going back to the drawing board there. I may try to find a 1050 and do away with the adapter. Or look into the baseplate swap. There is an E85 dominator local so that could be a possibility.

Project #2
Neutral saftey switch. I found the wires and pin locations on a forum tied them together and I now can start with the key!


Project #3
Dash. I put part of the dash back together found a wire on the dimmer switch to tap into for the gauge lights. Tried probing some wires/connectors to find turn and HB wires with no luck. I was hoping I could get it off the multi function switch but couldn’t find anything there. I ended up picking up some small wire to pull it from under the hood.

Project#4
Heater hoses. Ran the heater hoses and just stuck a radiator hose on it to see how tight it was. Could probably run it like this but I’ll have to keep a close eye on it and replace pretty often.

So i take it your Intake is a Dominator Flange?

^ Yea, that's his delima Mark.

To bad these are so expensive. 4500 to 4150 1" adaptor.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256454390709?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=256454390709&targetid=1645685073288&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027791&poi=&campaignid=20398902184&mkgroupid=153051693033&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073288&abcId=9317281&merchantid=6296724&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiMmwBhDmARIsABeQ7xQn88FecJGcbGyhA19ER-QZspUQvvqPgW6DYpmlJXe_cqOjzyjBd2AaAvJWEALw_wcB

This one looks like the same one, from the same seller but, for some reason is cheaper???

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256137648537?itmmeta=01HTXZ446HWTZNP0SHN8PC1BC8&hash=item3ba2fe5999:g:2CoAAOSw9OFZGvg0&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8IpcqbYxmPFxKFvRGc6p6AC4aLaJGgcrzzAWLOWHtDCGA9Phl2bAczMCGEW6ae1JY6vuqPF2wqm9%2BhEHvaSAmXeFqlJQL0OuVUm4TBPFZ89dmYo%2BKHevEGVfG7vX3112zA9V1ryb%2FxdOB7SMCl5bfblFI3w58iRUhdqvhRBBOL7J27IxPkrrYgCC4Pj1IWur8L3IxQJ%2Bl2h5YER16Wgy%2BiOIi%2BaqBdH6IwBKZ5Ccc9XXkjWMl4lfaOQNt7hJqrjMmSPMzmaOZvUhnY1fRHTJDioaMqye0Uohoj7QoDlS0zA%2Fa7AHUi68erFhbu8nE99riw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7jDkL_XYw

Learn something new everyday, thanks BBR and Mark on the Mr. Gasket 1930 adaptor. Never heard of them before.

Two places on a Google Search showed them (Mr. Gasket #1930) OP. Not sure if they have them? Let me know if you want their numbers.

Also on that Dual Pattern 4150 baseplate I think you may need a 1/2" spacer, like this to cover the intake. I'm not positive, so check yours and see.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/196189572325?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=196189572325&targetid=1645685073288&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9027791&poi=&campaignid=20398902184&mkgroupid=153051693033&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073288&abcId=9317281&merchantid=114774247&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiMmwBhDmARIsABeQ7xS3KAsWnbM6ujY5XBjNM5YnvjQshGXi5RxaSccs9SGFviMmakxfIzMaAscwEALw_wcB

What a PITA. Looks like the Dual Pattern baseplates are a 190 bucks also.

PS: Looks like JMark Audio has the 3/8" spacers to go with the Dual Pattern 4150 Baseplates.

https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/modding-4150-to-4500-bolt-pattern.2646052/

I have a bunch of Mr. Gasket 1930's.... somewhere. Let me see if i can find them. If you want one, let me know.

BigBlockRanger wrote:I have a bunch of Mr. Gasket 1930's.... somewhere.   Let me see if i can find them.  If you want one, let me know.

If you can find one that would be awesome.

Mark yes it’s a 4500 intake.

Super those Aussie adapters are slick and I was looking at them yesterday. I would have to drill and tap my intake for vacuum if I use one of those. I’m hoping to be able to use one thick enough to tap but my options are running thin at the moment.

Hey look. I found them, and the crooked studs. Send me an address and I'll toss it in a box.

curiousgeorge wrote:

BigBlockRanger wrote:I have a bunch of Mr. Gasket 1930's.... somewhere.   Let me see if i can find them.  If you want one, let me know.

If you can find one that would be awesome.

Mark yes it’s a 4500 intake.

Super those Aussie adapters are slick and I was looking at them yesterday. I would have to drill and tap my intake for vacuum if I use one of those. I’m hoping to be able to use one thick enough to tap but my options are running thin at the moment.

Look at the bottom of your 830 baseplate and see if it has the PCV port cast in the bottom and back of the baseplate?

I drilled (or maybe my machinist drilled, been along time ago) the back of my Competition 750DP List #6109 baseplate and added the vacuum fitting.

Hopefully you get that MG 1930 from BBR, that should solve your problem.

If not Bristol Automotive Parts has one in stock.

BBR has offered to send it to me but I’m going to hold off going that route and see if I can find a dominator or XP that will bolt to the manifold. I think that will be the best option for the long haul.

I saw that one at Bristol but wasn’t sure if they were legit or not.

curiousgeorge wrote:BBR has offered to send it to me but I’m going to hold off going that route and see if I can find a dominator or XP that will bolt to the manifold. I think that will be the best option for the long haul.

I saw that one at Bristol but wasn’t sure if they were legit or not.

Just me but, I would send BBR some shipping money and a little extra and get the MG 1930 to keep my options open down the road.

If you ever have an engine/fuel/electrical problem and want to try another carburetor, to sort it out, it may come in handy.

The Bristol Parts is Legit, if anybody needs one in the future. They have at least 1 in stock.

Sure a Big XP or 1050 Dommie will run better but, a 750 or 800DP will not need a 50 gallon gas tank for extended street use.

curiousgeorge wrote:Well I got a a few hours of time to spend on the car today.  

Project #1 Hood
I had a 2” element from my brothers truck that I tried. I have the K&N filter top and with the drop base and 2” element the top was sitting on the front vent tube. It fit but would rub the hood. I’m going to have to loose some height there and the 1930 mr gasket adapter is obsolete so I will be going back to the drawing board there. I may try to find a 1050 and do away with the adapter. Or look into the baseplate swap. There is an E85 dominator local so that could be a possibility.

Project #2
Neutral saftey switch. I found the wires and pin locations on a forum tied them together and I now can start with the key!


Project #3
Dash. I put part of the dash back together found a wire on the dimmer switch to tap into for the gauge lights. Tried probing some wires/connectors to find turn and HB wires with no luck. I was hoping I could get it off the multi function switch but couldn’t find anything there. I ended up picking up some small wire to pull it from under the hood.

Project#4
Heater hoses. Ran the heater hoses and just  stuck a radiator hose on it to see how tight it was. Could probably run it like this but I’ll have to keep a close eye on it and replace pretty often.

I'm surprised Mr Gasket Quit Making the 1930 Adapter!!I think they could sell plenty of them for people who are limited on hood clearance since they're only a 1/2" spacer!!

BigBlockRanger wrote:Hey look. I found them, and the crooked studs.  Send me an address and I'll toss it in a box.

That's Very Cool of you!!

Well since we were waiting on parts for a piece of equipment I got to spend a good portion of the day working on the car.

Got the wiring ran for the turn/high beam indicators. Got connectors on all the wires in the dash so it can unplug and come out. While connecting the oil pressure gauge and sliding the dash in the plate that I expoyed in to hold the gauge came loose. I’ve put that on the fix after its running list unless I hit a place where I have nothing else to do.

I pulled the carb and spacer off. I’m supposed to pick up an E85 carb this weekend. I’m going to attempt to drill/tap the nitrous plate for 1/8”npt and use that for my vacuum.

I started going through what little wiring I’m using from the factory harness and shortening and cleaning it up some.

I still haven’t figured out where to mount the A/C compressor.  The lower passenger side looks like the best option but that the opposite side it came from. I’m waiting on my balancer and pulley I’m having a spacer made for to try and get the pulleys to line up.

I ordered a cheap set of shorty headers and going to cross my fingers they will fit. Hopefully we will see next week.

So I’ve been waiting to have headers built and while searching eBay one day I found a set of shorty stainless headers for $270 shipped to me. They came in the other day and I dropped them off at the shop and only had about 2 minutes to look at them. But it looked like they were not going to fit. Both sides the bottom of the flange was touching the head and the top had a 1/2” gap. Passenger side the collector flange was hitting the K member and the drivers side was hitting the steering shaft. I’m not sure there will be a way to remedy it but when I get some time I’ll try reinstalling them again and get some pics.

Well I had some time to work on the car this morning. I ordered a set of Dynatec headers for a BBC foxbody with hopes I could run them with adapters.  I started on the passenger side where they should have fit easily. Well I couldn’t get them in where they needed to be until I removed the motor mount and they would only get close then.  So I moved to the drivers side.  First thing I removed the steering shaft to open up some space to try to get them in there,  then the motor mount, then finally removed the K member.  Then they still wouldn’t fit.  I am pretty sure I can cut them down and make them work.  I have a set of flanges for a BBF from when I was going to have a set built so I may just cut them down and use that flange on the drivers side and use an adapter on the passenger side.  




But I feel like I’m back to square 1.5. the engine is hanging from the hoist, there’s no K member in the car.  It looks like I need to buy a tubular K member to open enough room up to make everything fit.  Or go back to waiting on getting a set of headers built that will fit.  

I took some pics of the BBF flange sitting on top of the the headers for reference,  the  port mismatch isn’t near what I expected it to be.  








And when the header company says that you can return them if they don't work as long as they aren't all scratched up you try to keep from scratching them.

well if you get stuck and need some headers i have a set of hooker foxbody 460 headers. they are the ones that slip together in couple pieces they are in good used shape .
let me know

quote="curiousgeorge"]Well I had some time to work on the car this morning. I ordered a set of Dynatec headers for a BBC foxbody with hopes I could run them with adapters.  I started on the passenger side where they should have fit easily. Well I couldn’t get them in where they needed to be until I removed the motor mount and they would only get close then.  So I moved to the drivers side.  First thing I removed the steering shaft to open up some space to try to get them in there,  then the motor mount, then finally removed the K member.  Then they still wouldn’t fit.  I am pretty sure I can cut them down and make them work.  I have a set of flanges for a BBF from when I was going to have a set built so I may just cut them down and use that flange on the drivers side and use an adapter on the passenger side.  




But I feel like I’m back to square 1.5. the engine is hanging from the hoist, there’s no K member in the car.  It looks like I need to buy a tubular K member to open enough room up to make everything fit.  Or go back to waiting on getting a set of headers built that will fit.  

I took some pics of the BBF flange sitting on top of the the headers for reference,  the  port mismatch isn’t near what I expected it to be.  








And when the header company says that you can return them if they don't work as long as they aren't all scratched up you try to keep from scratching them.
[/quote]

I thought you were buying the Forward Facing Headers like BigBlockRanger used?

Mark Miller wrote:I thought you were buying the Forward Facing Headers like BigBlockRanger used?

No I thought about it but I decided to try this route. I was hoping they would be close on the drivers side.
But I was going to try them rear facing but found the BBF shortys and tried them instead then decided to try these.

Man, I had high hopes that those would be close to working.