air compressor ?

well im moving to a smaller home ....downsizing im going to sell my ginormus air compressor can anyone suggest a 110v deal ...still an up right unit but not as large and something that i dont need a forklift to move

thxs for the input guys

Nick dont know what size your after but sears has a Ingersoll-Rand Vertical 20gal. 2hp on wheels 449.95 or you mite look at aire compressers diret.com thay have all sizes and brands. Keith

Nick if you going to 115vt make sure you get it with high cfm's or you want be able to run the air tools 20 gal you will work it to death with air tools need more air volume I would atleased get a 30gal or 40gal

I had a Craftsman 6 hp 60 gallon compressor. It would un-ass itself on a regular basis and kick the rods out the side. Conveniently they sell a repair kit with new cylinders and pistons/rods. Don't even look at 'em. After 3 or 4 rebuilds, I threw the tank into the woods and bought a 2 stage 80 gallon Husky from the Home Depot. It looks like it has a Harley V-twin on it. It has been good for 2 years so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If you got a big 'ol good 'un , KEEP IT !!!!


Edit: Plus the Craftsman oil-free deal was loud as Ph&$k !!!!

cletus66 wrote:I had a Craftsman 6 hp 60 gallon compressor. It would un-ass itself on a regular basis and kick the rods out the side. Conveniently they sell a repair kit with new cylinders and pistons/rods. Don't even look at 'em. After 3 or 4 rebuilds, I threw the tank into the woods and bought a 2 stage 80 gallon Husky from the Home Depot. It looks like it has a Harley V-twin on it. It has been good for 2 years so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If you got a big 'ol good 'un , KEEP IT !!!!


Edit: Plus the Craftsman oil-free deal was loud as Ph&$k !!!!

thats funny ... i have a crafstmen in the trailer ...loud as you know what ....... and ive got the 80 gall in the garage ......

cletus66 wrote:I had a Craftsman 6 hp 60 gallon compressor. It would un-ass itself on a regular basis and kick the rods out the side. Conveniently they sell a repair kit with new cylinders and pistons/rods. Don't even look at 'em. After 3 or 4 rebuilds, I threw the tank into the woods and bought a 2 stage 80 gallon Husky from the Home Depot. It looks like it has a Harley V-twin on it. It has been good for 2 years so far. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If you got a big 'ol good 'un , KEEP IT !!!!


Edit: Plus the Craftsman oil-free deal was loud as Ph&$k !!!!

X2

Just try to stay away from that "oil free" junk. They're for blowing up bicycle tires....as long as the tires aren't completely flat.

Downsize Like going from big block to a chev Volt.

I would not go any smaller then a 60 gallon.
If there is room I would keep the 80 gallon if it was me.

xx3 on keeping the 80 gal.

besides Nick your big eoungh to just give it a bear huge and put it anywhere you need to

Nick, I would think long and hard before limiting yourself to 110v compressors.

For the most part the 110v units are weak, and barely good enough to run an air chuck.

I run a 30 gallon Speedaire, and it has a dual voltage motor....it can be wired for 110 or 220 bu changing a few connections in the motor.

Well, even though it's a 2HP motor, it was blowing breakers and overheating on the 110 circuit.

I converted it to 220 and ran a 220 feed to it, and it has never hiccuped again.

Greg

like was said stay away from the direct drive noise makers. they are good for SFA.
ALMOST every 115 VAC can be switched to 230V connections, some easy, some not as easily. double the voltage, half the current. eg) 15 amps @ 110V = 7.5 amps @ 220V. Plus you help keep your load balance more so equal taking stress off your neutral conductor which in many cases is too small. (they used to reduce the neutral conductor size) If only they knew back then what they know now about harmonics, and power factoring...

Why not just keep the big 220 compressor, but put it up in the new place's garage attic? Putting the compressor in the attic gets it out of the way freeing up more garage floor space.

Greg_P wrote:Nick, I would think long and hard before limiting yourself to 110v compressors.

For the most part the 110v units are weak, and barely good enough to run an air chuck.

I run a 30 gallon Speedaire, and it has a dual voltage motor....it can be wired for 110 or 220 bu changing a few connections in the motor.

Well, even though it's a 2HP motor, it was blowing breakers and overheating on the 110 circuit.

I converted it to 220 and ran a 220 feed to it, and it has never hiccuped again.

Greg

I have a Mac Tools 30 gal 5hp comp which I beleive its made by Speedaire it also has the choice of 110 or 220....I also have run it on 220 since new had it for 15 plus years, only had to put a new on/off switch on it (my fault) runs any air tool you need in a smaller space and can move it with a hand cart

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Why not just keep the big 220 compressor, but put it up in the new place's garage attic? Putting the compressor in the attic gets it out of the way freeing up more garage floor space.

How does one get a 80 gallon compressor in a attic?

[quote="OldRedFord"]

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Why not just keep the big 220 compressor, but put it up in the new place's garage attic? Putting the compressor in the attic gets it out of the way freeing up more garage floor space.

How does one get a 80 gallon compressor in a attic? [/quote

WELL! with his new body he will first curl it and then press it and wha la its there

OldRedFord wrote:How does one get a 80 gallon compressor in a attic?

With a chain come-a-long up through a garage attic access, or drop down stairs access.

A 80 GALLON WONT FIT THROUGH 15 X 42 INCH HOLE........BUT..With a good sawzall and some knowledge on cutting rafters shouldnt be any problems

bbfstang wrote:A 80 GALLON WONT FIT THROUGH 15 X 42 INCH HOLE.

Ummm, ok.....can't remember the last time I saw an attic access opening that was only 15" wide. Not too many AC repair guys around here could fit through an access hole that small. And I think the aveage moving box is around 18" wide. Kinda hard to store stuff up in the attic in 18" wide moving boxes if the access hole is only 15" wide.....

You could make a very generous sized 30.5" to 32.75" wide by 46.5" long attic access opening by tying the framed opening & surrounding ceiling joists together using a stiff-back/strong-back/hog-back/rat-run (what ever you want to call them) braces to strengthen the ceiling & opening. Theoretically you could make the opening as big as 46.5" x 46.5" if you made the ceiling joist stiff-back braces large & long enough.

Never reference a disappearing stairway but a scuttle hole which can be any size desired