What batteries do everyone prefer and one or two?

1 16v, no alternator. I use a dual set up with the lug for 12v. My LM o2 sensor dont likey the 16v. But starting problems can usually be traced down to bad grounds, bad wire connections, under performing battery, out of phase rotor, timing out of whack or something really tight that is going to create bigger problems soon.

56Tbird wrote:I've always ran the dizzies locked out in both my cars ,and never had a starting problem.How much timing are you running?

Please let us know how that deal rolls after you get to your 17-3/4:1 .

Lem Evans wrote:

56Tbird wrote:I've always ran the dizzies locked out in both my cars ,and never had a starting problem.How much timing are you running?

Please let us know how that deal rolls after you get to your 17-3/4:1 .

.......... damn you gonna need a fogger just to start that beast up

starter saver.................

56Tbird wrote:I've always ran the dizzies locked out in both my cars ,and never had a starting problem.How much timing are you running?

only running 32-33 timing

Curt wrote:1 16v, no alternator. I use a dual set up with the lug for 12v. My LM o2 sensor dont likey the 16v. But starting problems can usually be traced down to bad grounds, bad wire connections, under performing battery, out of phase rotor, timing out of whack or something really tight that is going to create bigger problems soon.

Like previously stated ground wire does not get hot nor even warm while cranking indicating the vehicle is properly grounded! Been over every connection and wire no faulty connections. The battery went from 12.3 I believe to 9 volts in my latest testing but that was after sitting several months without being charged and even with charger on the batteries with plenty of voltage something still doesn't seem right although it spins faster. Nothing in engine is tight turns over very easy by hand and when started car runs flawlessly and consistent. By rotor phase you guys mean bring up no 1 cylinder tdc and make sure rotor pointing dead on number one wire on cap right if so that is correct as well. The problem is still evident even when ignition is off and just cranking engine so not necessarily a starting problem but a cranking problem.

you'll have to get an old dist cap, drill a hole or window in it between the coil term and the #1 term, fire it up and use a timing light to see if rotor is centered on the #1 term. If you need to adj it you'll have to move the cap on the dist base............I had to slot the holes on my old msd billet to get it right. The starter savers delay the signal and can cause even worse problems if the phase is off.

I try not run with 'retards'
But if your retard...retards 20* [some do] ......now you are trying to start with 3*-4* ...that don't work either .
Does not sound like a starter has been saved yet

richter69 wrote:you'll have to get an old dist cap, drill a hole or window in it between the coil term and the #1 term, fire it up and use a timing light to see if rotor is centered on the #1 term. If you need to adj it you'll have to move the cap on the dist base............I had to slot the holes on my old msd billet to get it right. The starter savers delay the signal and can cause even worse problems if the phase is off.

Ok I understand that now!

Lem Evans wrote:I try not run with 'retards'
But if your retard...retards 20* [some do] ......now you are trying to start with 3*-4* ...that don't work either .
Does not sound like a starter has been saved yet

What I have found is my starter saver retards ten* when two blue wires are twisted together and when untwisted it retards 20* my wires have always been twisted together for the 10* and your right no starter saver at all by the looks of my flywheel the starter thats only a couple months old probably doesn't look much better I don't feel this thing is needed so I am going to remove it, but could that have anything to do with my cranking problem even when the ignition is off. I tested this weekend and left all ignition off just cranked engine and my problem was just as evident. I got a painless wiring panel and just pushed starter button and left ignition off.

Are you sure your flex plate is good, and tight?

Fast Fox wrote:

Lem Evans wrote:I try not run with 'retards'
But if your retard...retards 20* [some do] ......now you are trying to start with 3*-4* ...that don't work either .
Does not sound like a starter has been saved yet

What I have found is my starter saver retards ten* when two blue wires are twisted together and when untwisted it retards 20* my wires have always been twisted together for the 10* and your right no starter saver at all by the looks of my flywheel the starter thats only a couple months old probably doesn't look much better I don't feel this thing is needed so I am going to remove it, but could that have anything to do with my cranking problem even when the ignition is off. I tested this weekend and left all ignition off just cranked engine and my problem was just as evident. I got a painless wiring panel and just pushed starter button and left ignition off.

10* is enough...............check the phase.......... I think you'll find its way off. I broke 2 starter drives before I did this, after the rephase, it starts smooth as silk.

342g wrote:Are you sure your flex plate is good, and tight?

I turned it over at the crank and went over 3 revolutions looking at things and all flexplate bolts have star locks and all bolts look tight and couldn't see any tc movement or bolt problems as well as flywheel bolt issues. If you look at the inside pic above I think starter isn't in hole enough doesn't engage flywheel enough but I can't figure out why. I have a 92454 Jw bell a jw the wheel 93001 and a starter from db that is supposed to be great here is the link to it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390144642038&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT.

richter69 wrote:

Fast Fox wrote:

Lem Evans wrote:I try not run with 'retards'
But if your retard...retards 20* [some do] ......now you are trying to start with 3*-4* ...that don't work either .
Does not sound like a starter has been saved yet

What I have found is my starter saver retards ten* when two blue wires are twisted together and when untwisted it retards 20* my wires have always been twisted together for the 10* and your right no starter saver at all by the looks of my flywheel the starter thats only a couple months old probably doesn't look much better I don't feel this thing is needed so I am going to remove it, but could that have anything to do with my cranking problem even when the ignition is off. I tested this weekend and left all ignition off just cranked engine and my problem was just as evident. I got a painless wiring panel and just pushed starter button and left ignition off.

10* is enough...............check the phase.......... I think you'll find its way off. I broke 2 starter drives before I did this, after the rephase, it starts smooth as silk.

Ok Richter, do you think this can effect just my cranking even when ignition is off? Like I stated above just cranking say performing compression check or trying to build oil pressure with ignition off I get same problems.

that combo is fine, same one I run, and the starter is bolted directly to the bell....no shims.

you can check the mesh and depth easily, apply power only to the small post on the starter (no batt + on the large pole) pinion should kick in smooth when power applies to sol.........you can check the depth now. If the pinion sticks after you remove the power supply thats ok, as long as it returns if you nudge the flywheel slightly in the direction of rotation.

Get that all iron out then check the rotor phase and you'll be golden.

richter69 wrote:that combo is fine, same one I run, and the starter is bolted directly to the bell....no shims.

you can check the mesh and depth easily, apply power only to the small post on the starter (no batt + on the large pole) pinion should kick in smooth when power applies to sol.........you can check the depth now. If the pinion sticks after you remove the power supply thats ok, as long as it returns if you nudge the flywheel slightly in the direction of rotation.

Get that all iron out then check the rotor phase and you'll be golden.

I don't have any shims any where on starter, flywheel, or converter. I will do that check and when get carb will make sure rotor phase is right and correct it if not. How far should pinion be into flywheel? I would think it should stick passed flywheel some to the very least flush with the back of it, right?

You do have the flexplate on in the correct direction, right? I've seen them put on backwards, makes a big difference.

ya the sfi sticker is towards the engine and a the wheel sticker is towards engine as well believe it even said engine side on it. I didn't install it though previous owner did so all my information is based on observations I have took by looking at it.

Fast Fox wrote:Like previously stated ground wire does not get hot nor even warm while cranking indicating the vehicle is properly grounded!

The ground wont get hot. It just wont conduct voltage. 90% of all wiring problems are due to grounds or the lack thereof.

conduct a volt drop test across the connections...........

richter69 wrote:conduct a volt drop test across the connections...........

Already did was perfect lost all voltage transfers all voltage where it needs be.

Fast Fox wrote:ya the sfi sticker is towards the engine and a the wheel sticker is towards engine as well believe it even said engine side on it. I didn't install it though previous owner did so all my information is based on observations I have took by looking at it.

OK, just checking, that should be correct, at least that's how my JW wheel goes on.

Ya I know thanks for the idea gotta be something obvious I am just overlooking.

Just grabbing straws, but could the flex plate be a little warped?

Is the engine (it's self) grounded my means other than motor mounts/motor plates (either a short ground cable from engine block to good chassis ground, or a full length ground cable battery to block)?

I like using two batteries for a drag car, the Optima red tops (or yellow) work great . Even if a race car shows that it doesn't normally "need" two batteries most of the time, it's still nice to have the added insurance of the increased reserve of the second battery. Could be a round saver if some unexpected starting line/track down time (oil-down, crash, etc) forces you to shut down/restart a few times before finally making a pass.


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