What batteries do everyone prefer and one or two?

342g wrote:Just grabbing straws, but could the flex plate be a little warped?

I am wondering exactly the same thing. I know the ignition isn't the problem because cranking the engine with ignition off eliminates igniton or starter saver problems. I have a cranking issue and it is not battery or electrical related because all grounds are fine as well as powers all voltage drop checks out and everything functions as it should. I checked the pinion to flywheel mesh tonight it goes straight into flywheel without any binding or grinding. I was told today the proper mesh should be into flywheel about an 1/8th inch I have just a little over that probably 3/16 inch but it doesn't go too far it doesn't even contact the very back of flywheel almost but it doesn't so I feel that is right. Either something is wrong with starter or flywheel has got to have an issue. Pulled starter and bench tested works great but while turning seems to have a little not horrible bearing noise. But one of the teeth on it is broke in half so needs fixing. Flywheel looks awful. Gonna but spare flywheel I have in and try it with new/repaired starter. My spare flywheel is about Seven years newer and the teeth look perfect on it as long as it isn't warped it should be ok. I hope

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Is the engine (it's self) grounded my means other than motor mounts/motor plates (either a short ground cable from engine block to good chassis ground, or a full length ground cable battery to block)?

I like using two batteries for a drag car, the Optima red tops (or yellow) work great . Even if a race car shows that it doesn't normally "need" two batteries most of the time, it's still nice to have the added insurance of the increased reserve of the second battery. Could be a round saver if some unexpected starting line/track down time (oil-down, crash, etc) forces you to shut down/restart a few times before finally making a pass.


http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php

Engine does not have a direct ground other than through chassis. I have wired my other two cars this way and they work without issues.

Fast Fox wrote:

DILLIGASDAVE wrote:Is the engine (it's self) grounded my means other than motor mounts/motor plates (either a short ground cable from engine block to good chassis ground, or a full length ground cable battery to block)?

I like using two batteries for a drag car, the Optima red tops (or yellow) work great . Even if a race car shows that it doesn't normally "need" two batteries most of the time, it's still nice to have the added insurance of the increased reserve of the second battery. Could be a round saver if some unexpected starting line/track down time (oil-down, crash, etc) forces you to shut down/restart a few times before finally making a pass.


http://www.optimabatteries.com/home.php

Engine does not have a direct ground other than through chassis. I have wired my other two cars this way and they work without issues.

I'd directly ground it, it's worth a try, and it couldn't hurt.

Your right several bolt holes in back of head I can just run a temp wire to it and put it directly to battery I have a very long battery cable here so like you said definetly can't hurt and will absolutely elliminate it as a problem or not! Will try that tomorrow especially since alot of folks seem to think it could be the problem sure wish that's all it needed would save me some time and green stuff.

I know that you're talking about a starting issue, but I even ground my heads to battery neutral to insure good spark.

I'm thinking it may be in the starter. Take it apart and have it checked or try a starter for a 95 F250 with automatic and 460. That's what is on my car and it's MUCH better than the gear reduction starter I did have on the car.

D. Sea wrote:I'm thinking it may be in the starter. Take it apart and have it checked or try a starter for a 95 F250 with automatic and 460. That's what is on my car and it's MUCH better than the gear reduction starter I did have on the car.

X2, Starter issue.

D. Sea wrote:I'm thinking it may be in the starter. Take it apart and have it checked or try a starter for a 95 F250 with automatic and 460. That's what is on my car and it's MUCH better than the gear reduction starter I did have on the car.

So what do you think like a factory ford starter thats what I am wanting to try I believe. Just thought of this and I don't think it would make much difference but you know those thin bellhousing spacers that come on trans from factory I don't have one of them on the car. Do you guys run em or do they usually see the trash can?

I like having a common ground. I will ground my MSD box, engine and battery all on the same bolt on the frame

Yes it's a factory ford "mini" starter. Works MUCH better than the gear reduction starter I was using and I have more header clearance with the Ford starter

Are there any stock/factory flexplates that will work that way I can ensure I got the problem fixed before I take the chance on eating up another $225 flexplate? I don't mind the work but don't have the cash to be buying higher dollar parts to tear up.

Have you checked your clearance on your convertor? It could be hitting your flywheel bolts on the crank ,and you could be pulling your flywheel back to the convertor because it can't move forward to the flywheel. We had issues with this on Bruno's car, I had to put washers between the convertor and flywheel to make it work. Just loosen a convertor bolt and watch the flywheel to see if it moves forward. Just a thought.

Thank you no I haven't even thought to check anything like that.

You run into problems with these because there are a ton of different applications for them. Some people run 1/4" thick midplates in some chassis cars or dragsters. Some 1/8" , then people buy used convertors and flywheels. They're all set up for different back spacings. You almost always have to run the factory plate between the tranny and block.When you have everything bolted together except the convertor...you have to be able to pull the convertor mounting pads up to the flywheel ,then move it back to the tranny and have at least 1/8" clearance or you'll ruin your pump in your tranny.A JW ultra wheel can set back 3/8" farther from the block than a stock flywheel...for a midplate...a convertor made for this set up will hit the crank bolts with a stock flywheel and no midplate. Then you have to shim your starter when you start jacking all this around. It can be a PITA...I'm not sure this is your problem ,but it won't hurt to know you've got clearance on everything .Good luck!!

Good info! Thanks will be checking all those things this weekend I appreciate all the help