? Cam Recommendation ?

I'm freshening up a 460 to put in my 79 Bronco used as a toy for mud but sees some street time.

It was running when pulled out a 79 F150 with about 70,000 miles.

It basically stock, I have a Edelbrock Performer (non-RPM) intake, and a 650 Holley 4v vaccume secondary carb (small, but need to make it work for now) to put on. I'm kicking around the idea of porting the D3 heads slightly, but I basically need to keep the valves and valve springs stock (low budget).
So that limits me to a small cam, and from what I've read, something under .500 lift.

Any suggestions for good low end power, decent top end, for stock block and heads?

Comp XE-262H with the stock springs or XE-274H if you can change springs. You can get springs to work for under $75.00 have seen them under 50.00.

If you change springs an go with the bigger cam, be sure to check guide to retainer clearence.

Also be sure to go with a pre 1972 timing set or use a aftermarket deal, to make sure your cam timing is correct.

The above cams will need a min of 1 7/8 headers and good free flowing mufflers like a dyno max bullet.

JMHO

and maybe consider a Bigger Carb.

IDT-572 wrote:Comp XE-262H with the stock springs or XE-274H if you can change springs. You can get springs to work for under $75.00 have seen them under 50.00.

If you change springs an go with the bigger cam, be sure to check guide to retainer clearence.

Also be sure to go with a pre 1972 timing set or use a aftermarket deal, to make sure your cam timing is correct.

The above cams will need a min of 1 7/8 headers and good free flowing mufflers like a dyno max bullet.

JMHO

Forgot to mention, I have a aftermarket timing chain set, and I'm still looking for headers (1 3/4").

I'd like a bigger carb, but the 650 is what I've got, and since the motor is pretty mild I'm gonna try to make it work (would increasing the jet size in the secondaries be something to try?).

From what I've read the Comp XE262H cam would be to much for the stock springs, am I wrong?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL34-238-4/

That cam would deffinatly give me more of what I'd want, but I'm trying to avoid upgrading everything now, because in the future I plan on completely rebuilding it.

I have used the 34-235-4, (X4262H), camshaft in several stock type rebuilds meant for towing and it works with stock cylinder head hardware. The XE262H is almost the same thing.

Matt,
I really liked the x4262h in my truck and Paul seems to like it in his as well. I didnt know it would work with stock springs.


learn something new every day

I'm really liking the specs on the Comp XE262H cam. And as long as I can keep the heads with stock components, I should be one happy camper.
Now my next 'big' concern is initial start up.

Read a LOT on this, but having never done it leaves me wondering if I can #1) get it started and #2) break the cam in.

Thanks for the info guys.

MBBFord wrote:I'm really liking the specs on the Comp XE262H cam. And as long as I can keep the heads with stock components, I should be one happy camper.
Now my next 'big' concern is initial start up.

Read a LOT on this, but having never done it leaves me wondering if I can #1) get it started and #2) break the cam in.

Thanks for the info guys.

The way I do it is , get the #1 cyl on top dead center on compression, then put your timing mark at around 20 degrees btdc. Take the number one plug wire with a Phillips screw driver stuck in where the spark plug goes. Then turn on the ignition and rotate the distributor back and forth watching the spark from the screw driver to ground. make a mental note where the ignition is firing and stop the distributor there.

Then fill your carb with gas with a (I use an old dawn dish washing bottle) and fill the bowls through the two vent tubes (if you don't have an electric pump). Then pump your throttle arm until gas squirts out the squirter into the engine. At this point don't be shy , it takes a good bit of fuel to start a dry new engine. Then try to start hold the throttle about half way down while cranking. if you have pumped enough fuel in it and have a good ignition (MSD) , it shouldn't turn over more than a complete revolution before it fires up.

Don't crank it more than 2-3 seconds if it dont fire. stop and check a plug and see if it's wet or dry. Prolonged cranking will wipe all the lube off the lobs and the cam will soon be toast after start up. If the plug is dry. pump the trottle more and try again if wet hold the throttle wide open and crank some more.

I tried a 650 holley dp carb on a 429 one time, and it will run on it just not real good. I bought a custom carb from Prosystems and it felt like I added 200 hp to it. I would at least try to buy or borrow a 750 vaccum secondary for it.

850dp worked great for my budget 460 I had going. Picked-up 4/10's in the 1/8 mile over the 750vs. (It had a 2" 4 holes spacer also.)

guys this is going to be a trail/mud truck for the local fields and non-sanctioned pits....not a race motor in any form of the word.

not doubting your recommendations but top end isnt going to do him much good.

Here is a link to my bolt on budget build.
https://www.429-460.com/proven-builds-f4/budget-build-with-bolt-on-parts-t3601.htm#38882

You NEED to replace the springs or they will break from a new cam. Then you have a whole new set of problems.

bb429power wrote:You NEED to replace the springs or they will break from a new cam. Then you have a whole new set of problems.

Maybe the production valve springs will break however, I have 15 or so engines out in the field in everyday trucks running that 4x4 CompCams camshaft where the stock production springs are working fine; some with over 80,000 miles or so.
Of course there is never any attempt to ever rev those engines more than 4,500 RPM.

rmcomprandy wrote:

bb429power wrote:You NEED to replace the springs or they will break from a new cam. Then you have a whole new set of problems.

Maybe the production valve springs will break however, I have 15 or so engines out in the field in everyday trucks running that 4x4 CompCams camshaft where the stock production springs are working fine; some with over 80,000 miles or so.
Of course there is never any attempt to ever rev those engines more than 4,500 RPM.

Thats an interesting fact. But I think the bigger question is why do you have 15 trucks?

rmcomprandy builds engines?

Thanks for the help fellas.

What all should I get with the cam and lifters (XE262H)?
Should I get some extra assembly lube, 2 quarts of Comp Cams break in additve (one for break it, and one for first oil change)?
Is VR1 oil neccessary for my break in? (7 qt. pan, so 6 motor oil and 1 comp cam add. right?)

Anything else?


I'm just going to clean up the heads and put them back on. Any suggestions to clean off the deposits on the valves?

bb429power wrote:

rmcomprandy wrote:

bb429power wrote:You NEED to replace the springs or they will break from a new cam. Then you have a whole new set of problems.

Maybe the production valve springs will break however, I have 15 or so engines out in the field in everyday trucks running that 4x4 CompCams camshaft where the stock production springs are working fine; some with over 80,000 miles or so.
Of course there is never any attempt to ever rev those engines more than 4,500 RPM.

Thats an interesting fact. But I think the bigger question is why do you have 15 trucks?

I think you should do some homework and you might know that I have been an engine builder for 40 years and maybe a 1000 engines built for "customers" is probably a conservative estimate.
Those "DPW truck" engines which I built for the city is at least 15 in number.
Is that a complete enough expanation to satisfy your curiousity...?

Guy's when Randy M tells you a ltlle red rooster can pull a turning plow.............. Just keep quite and get the damn harness out and hitch him up............

If he don't know it to ba a fact, he wont answer your question....................

IDT-572 wrote:Guy's when Randy M tells you a ltlle red rooster can pull a turning plow.............. Just keep quite and get the damn harness out and hitch him up............

If he don't know it to ba a fact, he wont answer your question....................

Amen......

I couldnt help but see this. If your on a tight budget and these guys know that stock springs would work with that cam i have a set of new springs off of my C9 heads that i could just give you and im sitting ontop of a holley 770 street avenger i could let go of for real cheap. Just trying to help out a fellow budget builder

Also on the heads if your going to have them off the engine get rid of the bumps in the exhaust ports and plug the EGR hole. also some bowl work behind the valves will help out TONS. You dont have to do much to the intakes as they should flow well enough for you application.

Just what i would do...

Maddmattmustangs wrote:I couldnt help but see this. If your on a tight budget and these guys know that stock springs would work with that cam i have a set of new springs off of my C9 heads that i could just give you and im sitting ontop of a holley 770 street avenger i could let go of for real cheap. Just trying to help out a fellow budget builder

Also on the heads if your going to have them off the engine get rid of the bumps in the exhaust ports and plug the EGR hole. also some bowl work behind the valves will help out TONS. You dont have to do much to the intakes as they should flow well enough for you application.

Just what i would do...

I was really thinking about mildly porting the heads (exhaust bumps and bowl blend), but IF I wasn't going to swap springs or anything I was considering leaving them alone.

I know I'd be leaving some power on the table by staying with the 650 carb and no port work, but only reason I was willing to do that is because I just wanted to get the motor in and started before I put a lot of money into it.

But like you said, I've got it torn down on the stand, so there's no better time to do it.

[/quote]I was really thinking about mildly porting the heads (exhaust bumps and bowl blend), but IF I wasn't going to swap springs or anything I was considering leaving them alone.

I know I'd be leaving some power on the table by staying with the 650 carb and no port work, but only reason I was willing to do that is because I just wanted to get the motor in and started before I put a lot of money into it.

But like you said, I've got it torn down on the stand, so there's no better time to do it.[/quote]

I totally hear you on getting a motor in and started I scored a 557 stroker shortblock for cheap and then looked at it and realized my pocket book was going to be hurting for a while to get this thing done

i honestly think that mild porting and cam would give you the biggest benifits power wise.
the 650 will give you some good crisp throttle response though