carb tuneing question

how do i know if the center squirters are too large?going to the starting line the motor is loading up just above idle.i opened up the clearance between the lever and bolt this did help.how mutch clearance is too mutch it is between .050/.070?

reason i am asking is the bigger main jets i use the worse the problem gets.

if your talken about the bolt on the pump arm for the squirter pump?i dont run any room on mine.squirter size should'nt realy cause loading up at idle.power valves ok? does it load up more cold than hot?

You need the clearance when the pump is fully depressed to keep from bending stuff. If it's loading up, it shouldn't be the squirters. Squirter size is all dependant on application. Too big, and you will fatten the motor too much and run out of shot quicker. I don't know how much you know about Holley carbs, and I don't want to insult you or anything...I would check fuel level in both bowls, check to see if fuel is dripping in through the boosters at idle, try different power valves (if your vacumn is too low they could be opening, or they could be leaking) gaskets between main body and metering plates could be bad.
Also, Holley carbs have a reputation for warping...I had two Ford trucks with the Motorcraft/Holley carbs, and both of them would run filthy rich while they were warming up, and as soon as the engine was fully warm, they'd warp into place and would run fine. I guess that's what was happening...

I would suggest as others have, look at the power valve enrichment system. Install a vacuum guage in a manor you can see from your seat while staging. Notice the level of vacuum while you drive into the beams. Note the vacuum reading and install a power valve with a bit lower rating. Most like a power valve with about one number less than the reading. Also the power valve may be damaged causing the over rich condition. Also as others have mentioned, the accelerator pump arm adjustment should have a bit of clearance while completely depressed.

Just a thought.
Dave.

yes you guys are correct that i am learning.the floats are hi i set them that way because i wanted to make sure they were not empty on topend.i made a run and discovered i needed moor fuel and then put the 94 jets back in we had on the dyno.next run was first round elimination so no other adjustment than the 94's put in.the car ran so well i let off about 30-50 ft before the line to stay under the 5.99 index with a 6.03.i adjusted the pump arm for the next run and didnt think about the hi float level.next run i was just about in the wall because of a oil down before my last run.

remembering back to when i first fired the car up i had the same rich problem between 1500/3000 rpm.i put 92 jets in and that solved the rich problem until now.i still need to go richer on the main jets so i know the problem should be worse yet?

what carb? how many circuits?

John I. wrote:You need the clearance when the pump is fully depressed to keep from bending stuff. If it's loading up, it shouldn't be the squirters. Squirter size is all dependant on application. Too big, and you will fatten the motor too much and run out of shot quicker. I don't know how much you know about Holley carbs, and I don't want to insult you or anything...I would check fuel level in both bowls, check to see if fuel is dripping in through the boosters at idle, try different power valves (if your vacumn is too low they could be opening, or they could be leaking) gaskets between main body and metering plates could be bad.
Also, Holley carbs have a reputation for warping...I had two Ford trucks with the Motorcraft/Holley carbs, and both of them would run filthy rich while they were warming up, and as soon as the engine was fully warm, they'd warp into place and would run fine. I guess that's what was happening...

x2..i had a 1050 that would load up bad every time on a cold start,i'd run it just long enough to get a little heat in it and shut it down and wait 15-20 min. and fire it back,it would idle and sound like a new carb.i found that the main body was leaking letting the vac port for the power valve pull fuel from the metering block into the engine until it got warm and sealed up.flycut the body on a mill and fixed that problem.mine looked like the bowl screws were over torqued or maybe just from jet changes/use over the years.let us know what you find.

So that's what's happening...I figured it was something like that.

1250 quickfuel and i am unsure how many circuits?

Look in the top of the carb on each side of the boosters. Should be 2 or 3 small holes. Some times one might not be drilled.

ok i have been doing some reading it seems the rich problem is in the intermediate idle circuit.i will need to lower the floats and readjust the idle airfuel screws useing a vacume gauge.if the problem is still their i will go larer 1 size to lean out the intermediate circuit to see if that helps the problem.