Which ARP flexplate bolts do I need?

I have a JW Wheel, the older one that is flat, not stamped looking like an OEM unit. What part number ARP flexplate bolts do I need? Will the ARP 2901 work?

i know the arp bolts i ordered for my deal didnt work .... i went with some grade 8 fasteners and used all six mounting holes

I would hope you used all 6!

You talking about converter to flexplate? I'm talking about flexplate to crank bolts...

John check the flang thickness and let me know I have a set out of a rearend setup kit that are 7/16 fine when I get home I will check and see if they will work......they were to short for the rear end and I think they are just about right for fly wheel bolts....


Randy

jbozzelle wrote:I would hope you used all 6!

You talking about converter to flexplate? I'm talking about flexplate to crank bolts...

yes i used the arp's for the flex to the crank ( all six ) but i used grade 8 from the convertor to the flex ( and yes all six)

thxs for clearing that up John

I used the ARP's for the manual trans flywheel, just had my buddy cut them down as they were too long.

Thanks guys. I know the ARP ones in the catalog are listed as .680 and 1.00 long on 2 different pages. Flexplate page lists the length as .680 and the flywheel page lists the length as 1.00, go figure...

I'll measure everything up and let you know how thick it is Randy. I do remember a thread on the old site years ago about the bolts being too long and messing up the thrust bearing, etc...

jbozzelle wrote:Thanks guys. I know the ARP ones in the catalog are listed as .680 and 1.00 long on 2 different pages. Flexplate page lists the length as .680 and the flywheel page lists the length as 1.00, go figure...

Flywheels are thicker at the flange than flexplates

DFI429 wrote:

jbozzelle wrote:Thanks guys. I know the ARP ones in the catalog are listed as .680 and 1.00 long on 2 different pages. Flexplate page lists the length as .680 and the flywheel page lists the length as 1.00, go figure...

Flywheels are thicker at the flange than flexplates

I understand that , but ARP lists the same part number with 2 different lengths. Must be a misprint somewhere...



FWIW, I measured tonight. The flexplate is right over .350 and the crank flange is right over .550 so would the .680 be too short and not have enough engagement into the crank flange? Or should I get the 1.00 lengths and cut them down? Is there a shim that I can buy and stick between the bolt head and the flexplate to take up the slight difference? If so, will that shim interfere with the converter adapter?

i used some mr gasket flywheel bolts for a bbc.i had a tci that was the thick one with the extra ring on it,probly 1/4 inch thick.

Think these would work out OK?

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/350-2802/10002/-1


They are .925 long. The thickness of the flexplate and crank adds up to .900

I had to use the .680 arp 12 point in mine 1.00 was to long will go all the way through and hit.I thought that because the new flex plate was thicker I needed the longer ones but that was not the case.So I put the .680 in and used a drop of loctite on them.

Jim

jbozzelle wrote:Think these would work out OK?

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/350-2802/10002/-1


They are .925 long. The thickness of the flexplate and crank adds up to .900

John,
I believe I have a set of these at home. They are from my old TCI flywheel, my new ATI flywheel set up came with new bolts. I'm at work right now, but I can measure them in the morning and see what length they are.

Thanks for the help guys. I just got off the phone with the Coug. He's got a set he's going to send to me. He's got a set of ring gear bolts that are the right length.

That right there is what this place is about!

It sounds like you got the bolt part number handled.
There is one more little detail to look at on your JW Wheel.
The ARP (Pro Series) fastener has a nice radius under the bolt head, where the bolt shank meets the head. The JW Wheel has a clean, square radius at the bolt hole edge. You may find a conflict that makes it neccesary to put a slight chamfer on the bolt hole in the Wheel to provide clearance for the ARP radius.
It is an easy detail to overlook, but the bolt head radius hits the Wheel before the flat portion of the bolt head.
I told the JW folks about it several years ago, but it looks like it never changed. I have chamfered all of my JW Wheels.
Just wanted to share that, and maybe save someone a little grief.
Thanks,
Keith
www.KeithFulpMotorsports.com

jbozzelle wrote:Think these would work out OK?

http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/350-2802/10002/-1


They are .925 long. The thickness of the flexplate and crank adds up to .900

That is exactly what I'm using, been using them for last five years, just put a good coat of loc-tite on, and tighten them down good.

Thanks for the heads up Keith. What do you use to do that with? Just a typical chamfer bit?

Harold, Coug had some that measured .915 or so. I should be good to go.

Hey Coug. Got the bolts today. Thanks again. Cold one on me next time we meet up.

N/P John just trying to help of a fellow BBF Bud.....



John did you get my Message on the 1st on how many Foam peanuts you can get in a 1'x1' Box.......?



hope that car runs like a bat out of H3LL...


Randy

got your message... but all I got in the box was paper towels...