When leaving on transbrake how much tire spin to hurt 60ft?

Friend and Chevy guy says initial spins helps 60ft. I beleive this to be true when footbraking and some lower power car to help motor keep momentum and gain rpms. I would think when leaving at high rpms on brake with a bigblock the better bite the better 60ft if you got it set up right converter, gear ect. I am spinning several revs then car goes up real high and 60ft.s decent leaving at half throttle and rolling into it after it hooks. I think i need to get it to hook initially if there is a gain there before i tie it down. This might be normal for a 28x10.5 and bigblocks and not hurt 60ft any?? I am sure you guys have been there and know. thanks ED

It just depends on the application. Some cars do benefit form some small amount of initial tire rotation, and others work best with a dead hook.

Allowing some initial launch spin can help some lower HP and/or over-tired cars avoid "falling on their face" from lugging the engine during the launch by helping get an engine up in it's power band a little faster. And on other cars that have big monster torque numbers (that would never have a problem lugging & "falling on it's face") allowing some initial launch spin can sometimes help avoid initially overtaxing the sidewalls & shaking the tires during the launch that dead hooking might cause.

Allowing some initial launch spin/tire rotation is somewhat similar in effect to increasing gear ratio/increasing converter stall/increasing clutch slip at the launch, they all can be used to help get the engine up in the power band a little faster.

I wish i had the money to buy all new adjustable struts and shocks right now. Have 70/30 up front and 50/50 rear. I wondered if looser front shocks would help weight transfer therefore help initial hook, would then tie most of front travel out. Getting close to end year and havent had enough passes to figure much out. Like to get idea what i have to buy this winter. I beleive there is 1.2Xs 60 ft.s in it to be found.

It should also be mentioned that you probably will see more initial launch tire rotation happening on cars with wheelie bars, and more dead hooked cars without wheelie bars. This is because that's how wheelie bars control the wheel stand, by unloading (and thus slipping) the slicks in a small controlled amount allowing the car to move more "forward" instead of more "up".

Ed501 wrote:I wondered if looser front shocks would help weight transfer therefore help initial hook..........

Actually you have it a little backwards.

Front-to-rear weight transfer doesn't help/cause the initial hit/hook/traction to happen......rather it's the initial traction already happening (combined with engine torque) that causes the resulting front-to-rear weight transfer to happen.

Initial rear suspension separation (no matter how small it might be) & the avaliable "at-launch" engine torque numbers is what actually causes the initial hit/hook/traction to happen. Then after the launch is already underway, the resulting front-to-rear weight transfer beginning to happen is what further helps to enhance the already existing traction during the launch's "recovery period" (the period where the car settles after the initial hit).

Going with shocks/struts that have true adjustable valving/dampening is always the way to go (if budget allows) over the fixed/limited valving stuff, more adjustability is always "more gooder".

I think i will try more air in air bag and try to make it plant tires sooner and play with air pressure in slicks, i havent played with brake rpm much yet, i think i will lower rpms and try not break anything and get some safe passes and some more experiance , then decide, I wish this weather would permit

I have set up 2 of my own combo's, with video for each pass, to determine how much spin there is, and the spin in relation to ET and 60 ft............BOTH cases, with max power applied, liked no more than 1/8th turn on the hit........any more and it lost ET...........this is a mid to high 1.2x 60 ft.

tHANKS, Thats exactly what i figured, you need the stored energy to get momentum going, once it wasted there not much stall left or many rpms mutilplying torque. I got a camera tomarrow i hope my son can get some decent pics of car leaving. If had a driver i probably could help alot. All i know is i let go of the button and car barely moves as car start transfering it bites hard and pull hard. I would say there is several rotations in this half second or longer wait. I might have to get a sway bar to preload rear enough. Can i still use mu southside?