Is there anymore left in my 60ft?

Car is a 85 gt with 460 dove heads, vic intake, 1050 dommy, c6 and UCC converter. Front suspension is 1985 stock except Lakewood 70/30 struts. Rear consists of 9in rear 3.70 gear steeda lowers, southside machine uppers, stock springs with Lakewood 50/50 shocks. Car 60' is a 1.57-.59 and the weight is 3385. No transbrake. Is there anything to do to get the 60' faster or is that about right?

It will do better. When I had a small block 302 I was in the 1.40 range

For comparison in 2012 I have a 302 in the car with a decent amount of nitrous. Car was 200lbs lighter and 60' the same on the bottle as my 460 does N/A.

A little suspension work will help you 60ft. Like putting coilovers on the front and adjustable shocks in front and rear of the car. is the car a street car. I would put that thing on a diet

I agree with Larry also a anti roll bar will help a lot more than you would think

My small block nitrous car cut 1.28 60s

my small block n/a car 1.25 60ft 10.5w tires

Drop the gear if it'll stand it. What's it rpm in high gear?

The small block that I had in the car was just a cam, intake stock 302 with a man jet in it. With a stock c4 and converter. Ran good for a bunch of laying around parts.

cool40 wrote:Drop the gear if it'll stand it. What's it rpm in high gear?

I could probably go to a 4.10 gear but how would that affect the converter? I had a ati and it was to tight. It would only flash to 3k and 60' was in the 1.73 range with 3.70 gear. Put a 4.22 gear in it and the 60' stayed the same and converter still only went to 3k. Then Jon hooked me up with Lenny and he built a converter for the car. Put the 3.70 gear back in it and now it flashes 4800-5000 rpm and 60' in the 1.57 range. But I am wondering if that's the best the car will do in the 60' or is there more in it? The tire I have on the car is MT 275 pro.

My small block car had 90/10 with 150lb coil over v8 rear with one coil cut and 50/50 shocks double adjustable anti roll bar

Stock explorer bottom end with thumper e7 heads a solid flat cam Vic Jr intake and 650dp with a 5spd and 250 on the hose all on a 28 10 slick and a 4.30 gear

You got plenty to change lots of room to grow. Take some weight out of it

gmsmkr wrote:My small block car had 90/10 with 150lb coil over v8 rear with one coil cut and 50/50 shocks double adjustable anti roll bar

Stock explorer bottom end with thumper e7 heads a solid flat cam Vic Jr intake and 650dp with a 5spd and 250 on the hose all on a 28 10 slick and a 4.30 gear

You got plenty to change lots of room to grow. Take some weight out of it

What do I change? I know I could lose some weight with a k member. I doubt I would go to coil overs, I don't understand all the spring rates. I have been thinking about cutting a coil off the rear springs or getting team z replacement springs.

85bigblockfox wrote:Car is a 85 gt with 460 dove heads, vic intake, 1050 dommy, c6 and UCC converter. Front suspension is 1985 stock except Lakewood 70/30 struts. Rear consists of 9in rear 3.70 gear steeda lowers, southside machine uppers, stock springs with Lakewood 50/50 shocks. Car 60' is a 1.57-.59 and the weight is 3385. No transbrake. Is there anything to do to get the 60' faster or is that about right?

                                        I put some numbers in the 60 ft calculator just to see what came up. If you ET at 11.5 1/4 mile, it shows 1.5985 sec. 60 FT. With another sim for 60 FT Horse Power it showed 398 RWHP, for a 60FT at 3385lbs. If the ET I guessed is the same as yours, I think it's about on the money.

supervel45 wrote:

85bigblockfox wrote:Car is a 85 gt with 460 dove heads, vic intake, 1050 dommy, c6 and UCC converter. Front suspension is 1985 stock except Lakewood 70/30 struts. Rear consists of 9in rear 3.70 gear steeda lowers, southside machine uppers, stock springs with Lakewood 50/50 shocks. Car 60' is a 1.57-.59 and the weight is 3385. No transbrake. Is there anything to do to get the 60' faster or is that about right?

                                        I put some numbers in the 60 ft calculator just to see what came up. If you ET at 11.5 1/4 mile, it shows 1.5985 sec. 60 FT. With another sim for 60 FT Horse Power it showed 398, for a 60FT at 3385lbs. If the ET I guessed is the same as yours, I think it's about on the money.

Car runs 10.90s with a 1.57 60' at 123mph. It dynoed 442/420 at the tire

I can run that number for you. You probably have a tenth to gain?

With those numbers, it came out at 1.515 60FT, and 469 est. RWHP. These are all general estimates and then you also have different dynos also. Do you have any wheelspin?

supervel45 wrote:With those numbers, it came out at 1.515 60FT, and 469 est. RWHP. These are all general estimates and then you also have different dynos also. Do you have any wheelspin?

No wheelspin but those numbers are from when the ati converter was in there. I don't know if the numbers would change with the new converter. It also had open headers at that time. Now it has exhaust and mufflers.

The RPM through the Traps can be used with the sims also, to try and see whats going on, as for as gear ratio. It seems you are close to on the money, as for as the SIMS show, but in the real world I think you could get a little more. Tire size is needed also. You can get to where you get a lower 60FT but run out of cam on the big end, as you probably know, and hurt your ET. Also to me, it does not seem that suspension mods would help much, since you seem to have good traction.

I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense

gmsmkr wrote:I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense

I think that is called instant center? If it keeps the car level on launch, it can help, instead of using the force to pull the wheels up, instead of pushing the car forward.

supervel45 wrote:

gmsmkr wrote:I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense

                                                                                                                                                                    I think that is called instant center? If it keeps the car level on launch, it can help, instead of using the force to pull the wheels up, instead of pushing the car forward.

I was keeping it simple make it push if it travels to much chain it down

gmsmkr wrote:I have always had good luck with a progressive style spring set up. The 70/30 struts are holding back some you want to get the front to push all you can the k-member is a great up grade you don't have to run coil overs if you don't want.

This will sound crazy but try to find some weight to take in the middle of the car dead weight is a lot easier to drag than to push so get it out the best you can. Dead weight is in the middle then you got load weight on the front you want to transfer load to the rear and take away dead weight in the middle.

Hope all this makes sense

I understand. I will probably try k member and some 90/10s. But as far as weight in the center of the car I don't think there is anything to take out. No passenger seat, no rear seat. Just a kirkey with carpet.

If you have a little RPM left through the traps now, I would borrow a set of 2" shorter tires and see what the times look like. Have some one film the launch with both sets, and be sure and put a white mark on the sidewall so you can check traction. It's alot cheaper and easier than gear and convertor changes. When you are getting close to optium even rear tire air pressure can be used to fine tune.

supervel45 wrote:If you have a little RPM left through the traps now, I would borrow a set of 2" shorter tires and see what the times look like. Have some one film the launch with both sets, and be sure and put a white mark on the sidewall so you can check traction. It's alot cheaper and easier than gear and convertor changes. When you are getting close to optium even rear tire air pressure can be used to fine tune.

X2.......also on the tire pressure you want both tires to leave full patch of black no spotting of the rubber being layed down you might have 3psi difference but what ever it takes also tire pressure can push left or right. Get a note book and keep it logged on what you tried and how it works.

Good luck and keep us posted

^^^^^^^All Very True. You can put some of the Info on the timeslips to help keep track of everthing before you log it. Try a few different launch technique's such as flashing the convertor, or staging at different RPM's.

Thanks for the help and replys. The 275 pros slightly wrinkle I have a picture I could send to some one in a text message. The contact patch on track and tire look square.