??? on installing 429 in '69 F100

I have a friend that wants to trash his 360 & install a 429 4 spd in his '69 F100 (2 whl dr) pickup. Any suggestions regarding motor mounts, headers, etc... would be appreciated. Thanks, Rick.

the frame fom the cab mounts forward was unchanged untill 79. stock 460 f150 motor mounts and frame stands will bolt right up. and headers designed for 73-79 2wd pickups will fit your 69. also other items from the 70's trucks will bolt up like power steering disc brakes etc...

Rick

The stock rubber mounts on the 429 are fine, leave the 360 engine perches (part of the frame) there then use the 429 rubber mounts and it will fit like a glove. I did the same thing and so did another guy I know, both with c6 trannies though, and the trans fit in perfectly too.

If it was me I would get a truck oil pan or rear sump pan and put on it the front sump make a mess when changing oil.Yes get the 73-79 truck stands if you change them out.


Jim

69F100 wrote:If it was me I would get a truck oil pan or rear sump pan and put on it the front sump make a mess when changing oil.Yes get the 73-79 truck stands if you change them out.


Jim

True, I would recommend cutting a hole in the cross member if you had a front sump so the oil doesn't go all over it and you can get a socket over the bolt easily.

69F100 wrote:If it was me I would get a truck oil pan or rear sump pan and put on it the front sump make a mess when changing oil.Yes get the 73-79 truck stands if you change them out.


Jim

I don't see how that is going to fit. The x-member and I beams are right in the way. I put a rear sump pan on when I swapped from my 79 into my 86 and it sure looks too big for a little x-member notch. I would just look at some aftermarket pans where the drain plug is not in the same place as the factory one or just weld a new plug in the stock pan. Lem had good deal on some front sump pans awhile back.

Here's the 429 in my 67 f100 before the tear down.


After the tear down started.

bb429power wrote:

69F100 wrote:If it was me I would get a truck oil pan or rear sump pan and put on it the front sump make a mess when changing oil.Yes get the 73-79 truck stands if you change them out.


Jim

True, I would recommend cutting a hole in the cross member if you had a front sump so the oil doesn't go all over it and you can get a socket over the bolt easily.

Got a '78 F150 with the factory F250 stands and mounts. There is a "truck" pan that has a longer sump and a plug in the rear to clear the cross-member.
Making a hole for a car pan won't work. The plug, on a car pan, is right over the "I" beam.

fordman460 wrote:

bb429power wrote:

69F100 wrote:If it was me I would get a truck oil pan or rear sump pan and put on it the front sump make a mess when changing oil.Yes get the 73-79 truck stands if you change them out.


Jim

True, I would recommend cutting a hole in the cross member if you had a front sump so the oil doesn't go all over it and you can get a socket over the bolt easily.

Got a '78 F150 with the factory F250 stands and mounts. There is a "truck" pan that has a longer sump and a plug in the rear to clear the cross-member.
Making a hole for a car pan won't work. The plug, on a car pan, is right over the "I" beam.

Not being a d!#$ but it worked for mine, the oil drained just in front of the I beam.

bb429power wrote:

fordman460 wrote:

bb429power wrote:

69F100 wrote:If it was me I would get a truck oil pan or rear sump pan and put on it the front sump make a mess when changing oil.Yes get the 73-79 truck stands if you change them out.


Jim

True, I would recommend cutting a hole in the cross member if you had a front sump so the oil doesn't go all over it and you can get a socket over the bolt easily.

Got a '78 F150 with the factory F250 stands and mounts. There is a "truck" pan that has a longer sump and a plug in the rear to clear the cross-member.
Making a hole for a car pan won't work. The plug, on a car pan, is right over the "I" beam.

Not being a d!#$ but it worked for mine, the oil drained just in front of the I beam.

Not being a d!#$ either, bud. Just looking for a better way than I have now. How are ya getting a socket in there? My car pan is very close to the cross-member, no room for a socket and ratchet. Does the oil, when draining, clear everything or does it run all over the "I" beams? I can't see it in your pics. Maybe a better pic would help me.

The pictures were "before" everything started getting fixed. I used a socket with a long extension and a ratchet, the oil didn't go on anything. Except my shirt Maybe a little got on the cross member when it got to the very end, not sure. But I do remember that it went in front of the I beam and I wanted to mark the I beam so I knew where to put the pan for the next time I drained it.

It could have had a front sump truck pan swapped on to it before I got it maybe? But it was a 429 which I'm sure came out of a car.

I recommend using the 3 piece engine mount, brackets and engine stands from a 73-79 F series w/460. The stock passenger car 429 mounts become two pieces when the insulator fails and the torque of the big block lifting in the engine bay will cause considerable damage if the insulator fails under WOT conditions. The F series 460 mounts will not seperate into two pieces in the event of insulator failure. Also, this rear sump oil pan kit from FRPP ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6675-A460 ) is a direct bolt-in for the 67-79 F series w/429-460 and will be fine for street applications. Headers for 73-79 F series w/460 are a direct fit also but if you use the Hooker 1-7/8" full-length headers then some minor clearance modifications to the intermediate crossmember will be necessary.

bb429power wrote:The pictures were "before" everything started getting fixed. I used a socket with a long extension and a ratchet, the oil didn't go on anything. Except my shirt Maybe a little got on the cross member when it got to the very end, not sure. But I do remember that it went in front of the I beam and I wanted to mark the I beam so I knew where to put the pan for the next time I drained it.

It could have had a front sump truck pan swapped on to it before I got it maybe? But it was a 429 which I'm sure came out of a car.

I bet my engine placement, front to back, is different from yours. I am using the factory 3 piece F250 mounts and a car pan. Your mounts look different. Also, I suspect, there could be several different pan plug locations.

fordman460 wrote:

bb429power wrote:The pictures were "before" everything started getting fixed. I used a socket with a long extension and a ratchet, the oil didn't go on anything. Except my shirt Maybe a little got on the cross member when it got to the very end, not sure. But I do remember that it went in front of the I beam and I wanted to mark the I beam so I knew where to put the pan for the next time I drained it.

It could have had a front sump truck pan swapped on to it before I got it maybe? But it was a 429 which I'm sure came out of a car.

I bet my engine placement, front to back, is different from yours. I am using the factory 3 piece F250 mounts and a car pan. Your mounts look different. Also, I suspect, there could be several different pan plug locations.

Ah, could also be the year. The placement of the I beams might be a little different plus the perches I have are the original 67 FE ones. Your setup is probably different, at least we both learned something.

BobbyFord wrote:I recommend using the 3 piece engine mount, brackets and engine stands from a 73-79 F series w/460. The stock passenger car 429 mounts become two pieces when the insulator fails and the torque of the big block lifting in the engine bay will cause considerable damage if the insulator fails under WOT conditions. The F series 460 mounts will not seperate into two pieces in the event of insulator failure. Also, this rear sump oil pan kit from FRPP ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-6675-A460 ) is a direct bolt-in for the 67-79 F series w/429-460 and will be fine for street applications. Headers for 73-79 F series w/460 are a direct fit also but if you use the Hooker 1-7/8" full-length headers then some minor clearance modifications to the intermediate crossmember will be necessary.

Not trying to start anything Bobby but have you actually used a rear sump pan in a pre 80 f150 ? I had a 75 and two 79 factory 460 trucks with front sump pans and no matter how many times I read this thread I just don't see how there is enough room for that rear sump, x-member and the I beams all in the same real estate. Now it has been a few years so like I said I am not discounting what you have said and I haven't tried it just wondering if you are speaking from experience here. In the 80 + models they moved the steering box ahead of the x-member requiring a rear sump pan and that I could see. I also have an 86 that I swapped in the 460 from my 79 and I used the pan you referred to for that truck.

thanks,

The regular hooker headers require you to knock in the engine perch with a hammer then reinforce it. I know because I have seen it and talked to someone who has done it.

jasonf wrote:Not trying to start anything Bobby but have you actually used a rear sump pan in a pre 80 f150 ? I had a 75 and two 79 factory 460 trucks with front sump pans and no matter how many times I read this thread I just don't see how there is enough room for that rear sump, x-member and the I beams all in the same real estate. Now it has been a few years so like I said I am not discounting what you have said and I haven't tried it just wondering if you are speaking from experience here. In the 80 + models they moved the steering box ahead of the x-member requiring a rear sump pan and that I could see. I also have an 86 that I swapped in the 460 from my 79 and I used the pan you referred to for that truck.

thanks,

Jason,
The pan I listed in my above post is the exact rear sump pan that is in my '72 F100. No clearance problems at all.


Also, if you are using a HV oil pump with the FRPP pan then you need to modify the pan by deepening the area where the pump is. The HV pump housing is larger than the stock pump housing.

bb429power wrote:The regular hooker headers require you to knock in the engine perch with a hammer then reinforce it. I know because I have seen it and talked to someone who has done it.

What Hooker header are you talking about? I'm using #6811-1 and I did not have to make any mods to the engine perches or engine compartment at all. The only mods were to the intermediate crossmember on the sides where the crossmember comes down off of the frame. Also, because of the difficulty of getting the crossmember in place with the headers installed, I cut the intermediate crossmember in half and fabbed a bracket to bolt it back together after it was in place. I used grade 8 fasteners on the bracket:

I run a moroso fox body pan in my 77 with original 460 perches and mounts and love it, I had 6811 headers in a 70 model once and dont remember having to do any mods....

BobbyFord wrote:

Thats awesome, thanks for the pics Bobby.

The headers I used in my 79 were from Coyote. They used to be an off brand from Hooker but have been long gone for years. Too bad because they fit like a glove and didn't require any mods at all.

FWIW, two different intermediate crossmembers were used on these trucks; a wide one and a skinnier one. Mine has the wider crossmember. I'm not sure if the same mods are required with the smaller crossmember.

Bobby, you are using the Super Competition Hooker's, I was talking about the regular Competition Hooker's.

Ahh, I see.

You can also use a van oil pan they have the sump in the close to the middle.

Hi,

I came across this post browsing the internet. I have a 69 f100 with a 429 CobraJet. See links below from Truckin Mag. I bought the truck from a fellow in Virginia a few years back and dont even drive it, it sits in storage.

http://www.truckinweb.com/brandpages/ford/0202tr_1969_ford_f100_pickup_restomod/index.html


Anyway, I didnt build it but I would sure be willing to try and help with any questions you may have, parts used etc. I have a full spec list on the truck from the brake conversion, headers used etc.


Thx Guys
Mike